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Thread: 10ga sxs Pedersoli

  1. #41
    You can jug choke it if you first remove the chrome with a hone but that would be a job in its self!!!!

  2. #42
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Longknife View Post
    You can jug choke it if you first remove the chrome with a hone but that would be a job in its self!!!!
    That is what I was worried about. I would rather have a modfied jug choke than have it threaded for tubes. I'll keep working at it, and hopefully I can make the cylinder bores work for me.

    Conditions were not good today. 20mph winds with strong gusts, as well as a light rain. Today I tried Fg Goex, and while patterns seem unchanged from Fg Swiss, the recoil felt less brutal. Maybe it was just me paying more attention to the wind. The same 2 ounce load with 1 nitro card only did 68 pellets, although the wind likely did not help. More importantly I tried the same load with a 12 gauge 1/2" fiber wad soaked in olive oil on top, the skycheif load. It turns out after soaking for a few weeks that they grow to nearly 11 gauge size. This did only 65 pellets, identical to only an overshot card.

    I tried some #4 lead shot, both an OS and skycheif loads, and they did 50 and 52 pellets. That's clearly no good. For the life of me, I could not find my #6 shot, but I did find my #5 bismuth. On a scale, I weighted 2 ounces, which should have nearly the same pellet count as 1 3/4 ounce of #6 lead. This did 65 pellets.

    I'm beginning to think #5 lead shot will not get me to 25 yards. I even tried nickel plated #5 with not a single bit of change. And #4 is going in the wrong direction. I am going to turn my focus over to #6, which is as small as I feel comfortable using.

  3. #43
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    Not sure if you have seen this or not but I have to think it is safe for your modern made 10 ga.:

    http://www.tbullock.com/bpsg.html
    https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categ...191/1/WAD-10-A

    Both for BP shotshells but I'd have to think safe for muzzleloader too.

    Here is some info specifically for muzzleloading shotguns:

    http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/starr.html

    About half way down the page he talks about "lighter" guns and using 4 1/4 drams of BP under 1 1/2 oz. shot.

    And more:

    https://goexpowder.com/wp-content/up...18/06/mlss.pdf
    http://www.black-powder.co.uk/swiss/...percussion.htm
    http://www.traditionalmuzzleloader.c...smoothbore-gun

    Hopefully there is something useful there.

    Longbow

  4. #44
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    The 2020 issue of Hodgdon's reloading Annual magazine has a article about using Old Eynsford black powder in some shotguns. He used a 10 gauge shotgun too. He published some reloading data for the 10 gauge and some other smaller ones too. Anyway maybe it might help you out.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by longbow View Post
    Not sure if you have seen this or not but I have to think it is safe for your modern made 10 ga.:

    http://www.tbullock.com/bpsg.html
    https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categ...191/1/WAD-10-A

    Both for BP shotshells but I'd have to think safe for muzzleloader too.

    Here is some info specifically for muzzleloading shotguns:

    http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/starr.html

    About half way down the page he talks about "lighter" guns and using 4 1/4 drams of BP under 1 1/2 oz. shot.

    And more:

    https://goexpowder.com/wp-content/up...18/06/mlss.pdf
    http://www.black-powder.co.uk/swiss/...percussion.htm
    http://www.traditionalmuzzleloader.c...smoothbore-gun

    Hopefully there is something useful there.

    Longbow
    It is strange, but it seems Pedersoli does not come out and say a maximum. Just vague recommendations. I've resolved to keep things reasonable, say 2 1/4 ounce. The gun is light, but the barrels are every bit as stout as a modern 10 gauge. I trust it can handle non-stop 11,000 psi loads with out breaking a sweat. I would be surprised if these blackpowder loads are anywhere near that.

    Last night we got hit by the snow storm. I woke up to 3" of snow, with about 1" of slush underneath. I went to the range anyway. I am happy to say I found a true 25 yard load. Again I was working with Fg Goex, although this time I had #6 shot with. I started with #5 and again found loads to be about the same as Fg Swiss. When I switched to #6, it almost looked like the center of the pattern was thinner, even though I did not see that with #5. I tried a few combo's, including plastic wads, but no cure. To this point, the great majority of my loads were topped with a single overshot card punched from a cereal box. Finally I decided to try something stupid simple. The load was 100 gr powder, nitro card, 2 ounces #6 shot, and a nitro card for an overshot. This was the magic combo. Pellet count jumped right up to 102 in a 10" circle at 25 yards. Thinking it may be a fluke, I loaded again, and the second shot went 100. To this point I had only been shooting the left barrel, so I decided to try the right barrel. For fouling control I had been wetting the nitro cards in my mouth, the nitro card for using overshot was well saturated by the time I used it. For the right barrel I used dry wads. This went 92 pellets, which is adequate. I tried a second shot with soaked wads, and got 100. So it seems a lubed nitro card is the best overshot card. How's that for some load development!

    I still have a little more work to do. One of my ideas was a custom wad, but I forgot it at home. The idea was to use an unslit LBC50 wad, which is a 12 gauge wad that is a full .730" diameter. This obviously is a loose fit in my bore, but not as bad as one would think. The important thing was that I had punched some 10 gauge wads from 3/4" thick wool blocks I had found in some packaging, and glued to the bottom of the wad. Besides providing a gas seal, I'm hoping the wool will provide enough drag to keep the wad flying straight until the shot is released. I used the LBC50 wad for two reasons. One, I do not have an unslit 10 gauge wad. Two, I'm wondering if it may provide some kind of choking effect. During firing the shot will set back, and expand the wad to bore diameter. The question is will the wad then shrink back down upon exit and provide a choke, and more importantly will it release the shot.

    Besides that, I also want to try the skycheif load again with #6 shot. I did try varying the powder charge today, but I did not mess with the shot. I'll try some 1 3/4 and 2 1/4 ounce loads as well.
    Last edited by megasupermagnum; 03-29-2020 at 09:16 PM.

  6. #46
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    It looks like Ballistic Products is not allowing in-store pick ups at the moment, so it will be a couple days for shipping to get here.

    In the mean time I played with a few slug loads today. Being as the bore on this is actually 11 gauge, my .780" balls are out of the question. I tried both .715" balls in a duck canvas patch, and .730" balls in pillow ticking. I also just got a mold which will hopefully drop between .735" and .740".

    .715" with a duck canvas patch is a decent fit. It can be started by hand. .730" with pillow ticking was slightly looser. I only had enough patching with for 6 shots each, and both shot about 4" at 50 yards with 70 grains Fg goex. The left barrel hits about level, and 3" left, and the right barrel hits about 6" low, but about perfect left and right. With a little load development, I think this has the potential to be a great deer gun.

  7. #47
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    If your gun will be used more for turkeys than anything else, you could always have 3" "sleeves" permanently installed in the barrels instead of choke tubes, and get turkey killing patterns out past 40 yards quite easily. Been there done that!

  8. #48
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    A little more range would be nice, but I think I can get it done with 25 yards. This gun will not be used only for turkeys. I'm not sure what its niche, if any, it will become for me. I've got my TK2000 as a purpose built turkey gun if I want it. It is a 40 yard gun without trying. If I put the effort into it that I have been on this Pedersoli, I wouldn't be surprised if I could push it out to 45-50. I have no need for that much though. In my experience, turkeys hang up well out of range, and when they do come in, they don't waste too much time when they have a decoy to look at.

    I'll use this Pedersoli for turkeys this year for sure, provided nothing comes up. I'll use it for ducks for sure this fall. Provided I'm confident in my shooting, I'll likely use it next winter for deer. I may even use it for bear. We shall see.
    Last edited by megasupermagnum; 03-31-2020 at 06:37 PM.

  9. #49
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    Ducks!!! Black powder and ducks go together like chocolate chip cookies and a glass of milk!

    If you do get a chance to kill some ducks this next Winter, PLEASE post some pictures. I'm already looking forward to seeing them.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by ASSASSIN View Post
    Ducks!!! Black powder and ducks go together like chocolate chip cookies and a glass of milk!

    If you do get a chance to kill some ducks this next Winter, PLEASE post some pictures. I'm already looking forward to seeing them.
    It won't be too long a wait, although it always seems it is. Our season starts in September. I've done no work on it yet, but I have no doubts a load of my #4 bismuth shot will do just fine.

  11. #51
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    This morning while loading the truck I accidently put my knee on, and snapped my ramrod. So I ended up using my ramrod from my TK2000, which is 3/8", and never gave it a second thought. Later while ordering hickory dowel for a new rod, I noticed TOTW had a 9mm size listed for Pedersoli. Sure enough, my original rod measured about .354". Being as dowel is cheap, I ordered both 9mm and 3/8". The guides on my barrel measure around .380"-.385", and my aluminum 3/8" rod falls right into them. Can wood rods swell enough to become a problem? Is anyone else running a 3/8" rod on a Pedersoli?

  12. #52
    Boolit Bub
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    I would seal the 3/8” rod very well with a polyurethane finish and never look back. Unless it’s soaked in water for a looooong time I doubt it would swell enough to cause an issue. At least until the proper rod arrives.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodnbow View Post
    I would seal the 3/8” rod very well with a polyurethane finish and never look back. Unless it’s soaked in water for a looooong time I doubt it would swell enough to cause an issue. At least until the proper rod arrives.
    I've got both 9mm and 3/8". I would rather use the thicker 3/8" if at all possible. I'll make both sizes into a ramrod, and if the need ever arises, I'll switch to the 9mm size.

  14. #54
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    I made both size ramrods today. The 3/8" seems to fit just fine. The only problem was it was very tough to get the 10 gauge jag around the barrel, as the thimbles are so tight to the barrels. What I did was sand down the ramrod around the front thimble area to about 9mm size, and that seems to have made it a lot easier. If it becomes a problem, i think a 12 gauge jag might be the ticket.

    The only other problem I have is that it seems the right side lock can fall into the half cock notch. I've mainly fired the left barrel, so did not notice this problem until recently. There is no fly. I'm going to try and file the half cock notch slightly to allow a little more clearance.

    I also found that the sling studs on this are some tiny little things. Is there an adapter to go from those to an american style sling stud?

  15. #55
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Max load, way more than you can stand... My heavy Turkey load is 102 grains of Fg powder and 1 1/2 Oz of shot with the shot in a paper sleeve like a wad cup. This is good for over 30 yards on a turkeys head and has killed plenty so far. All one shot kills.

  16. #56
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    Alright, I think I got the right side lock figured out. I ended up taking both locks apart and giving a deep cleaning. The right side, I stoned the half cock notched down just a touch, it did not take that much. I think what happened is somebody tried to do a poor trigger job. Somebody has clearly filed away on the sear, but on the wrong side. I believe this turned the angle more inward, and is what caused the problem. Eventually I'll think about a new sear and tumbler, but for now I feel this is a safe and functional fix. The cleaning brought the trigger pulls down to a crisp 5 pounds too. I also had to bend the sear arm, for lack of a better term, to give a little clearance in the stock. I think I'll shim the right lock outward too, as the hammer seems to drag slightly on the stock too.

    Now I only need to figure out sling studs, and this will be ready to hunt.

  17. #57
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    It turns out that there is a European standard sling stud, and that is likely what this has. I hope it is anyway. I ordered a set of swivels from Grovtec that they say are for a European style stud, and should work on Pedersoli.

  18. #58
    GREAT!!!!! Now go get that gobbler!!!!!!!!! and post some pics!....Ed

  19. #59
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    I got to chronograph it to today. 100gr Fg Goex, NC, 2 ounces shot, lubed NC. 875 fps about 6' from the muzzle.

    Admittedly slow. I did not have a tin can on hand, but found an old WD40 can. Shot from 30 yards, the pellets went through the front side, but barely even dented the back. Using KYP ballistics calculator, If we assume #5 lead at 1100 fps muzzle velocity is lethal at 50 yards, that provides 561 fps and estimated 1.42" gel penetration. Compare that to #6 at a MV of 875 fps, that should be the same 561 fps at 33 yards, and estimated 1.42" gel penetration at 26 yards. So it's the bare minimum, but should be lethal at 25 yards, which is also the absolute limit of the pattern.

  20. #60
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    Played some more with the KYB shotshell ballistics. My load of #6 lead at 875 fps (closer to 900 fps muzzle), is nearly identical in performance to your standard target load of #7.5 shot at 1200 fps, or #4 steel shot at 1300 fps, both of which have been used to take turkey.

    More importantly I finally got my 11 gauge fiber wads to properly test the skycheif load. I'll be shooting again this weekend, and loading for the real deal next wednesday.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check