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Thread: Oven issues

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy

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    Oven issues

    I know for a fact that about every occupation knmown to man has someone who is proficient at it on this site.

    My oven is no0t working correctly. It is not igniting.

    The igniter is glowing brightly.
    Only a small amount of gas seems to be reaching the burner. If I light the burner manually, the gas jets are tiny, and do not heat the oven very much.

    The oven is a twenty year old Kenmore. From replacing an upper burner, I know it uses at least some Frigidaire parts.

    As at least some gas is getting to the oven burner, I am figuring the igniter must be intact, as well as from the brightness of the glow. I had a cracked igniter on it once, and the symptoms were different.

    I am thinking that the gas safety valve, apparently called the oven valve, could be bad? There is plenty of flame height on the burners, so I do not suspect the regulator as being bad.

    Any suggestions as to where I should look, or which component may be the culprit? From the illustrations and the schematic, it is relatively simple.
    OeldeWolf
    who may yet be kicked out of the Republik of Kalifornia for owning too many firearms.

    I didn't claw my way to the top of the food chain, to eat only vegetables!

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Possibly a bad thermo couple, not showing the burner is lit and allowing gas to flow to burner

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Mal Paso's Avatar
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    He has hot surface, no thermocouple. I would bet on the valve although if the ignitor has thinned enough it wouldn't draw enough amps to trigger the valve. Both parts are less than the cost of a service call.

    Does the schematic show the thermostat, ignitor and gas valve all in series? Each wired to the next?

    http://www.appliance411.com/faq/gas_...ems.shtml#glow
    Last edited by Mal Paso; 03-22-2020 at 11:12 PM.
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have found with that glow bar system the glow bar deteriorates and gets red but not yellow to white like it should, as a precaution I always replace both the glow bar and the solenoid at the same time it saves getting called back in a few months.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Just look up your oven brand/type on youtube



    There are service techs and parts peddlers that show you how to isolate the faults and troubleshoot the malfunctions down to the individual components. I have used them to find a defective gas solenoid coil on a gas dryer in about 15 minutes. I replaced both coils on the solenoid for $14.
    Last edited by EDG; 03-23-2020 at 11:23 AM.
    EDG

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Yup, solenoid replacement fixed my gas dryer. Igniter comes on and then off as no gas.
    Whatever!

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy

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    Thank you all.

    As at least some gas is getting to the burner, I figured the hotsurface should be passing current. But it is more of a yellow than a white, so it could be thinning.

    Thank you for the advice on replacing both, it makes good sense to me. I do the same with some automotive systems, so I am familiar with the way that works. I will call the parts store today, see if they have them in stock.

    Again, thank you!

    I am making a different type of marking knife for woodworking, and need the oven to temper the blade after I harden it.
    OeldeWolf
    who may yet be kicked out of the Republik of Kalifornia for owning too many firearms.

    I didn't claw my way to the top of the food chain, to eat only vegetables!

  8. #8
    Moderator Emeritus


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    The hot surface igniter, HSI, doesn't conduct electricity well when cold but acts as a resistor. When it warms it has much less resistance. Your HSI is not getting hot enough to overcome the resistance so the valve isn't getting full voltage resulting in a partial open valve. Replace the HSI and it should work well.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy

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    I will replace the igniter first. It is in stock, and only a bit over $30. The gas valve is special order only, and over $180. I will only replace it if needed.

    I will pay over the phone, and they will set it outside the door, when I tell them I am there to pick it up.
    OeldeWolf
    who may yet be kicked out of the Republik of Kalifornia for owning too many firearms.

    I didn't claw my way to the top of the food chain, to eat only vegetables!

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy

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    I replaced the igniter, and it is back in operation again. Thank you everyone for your help.
    OeldeWolf
    who may yet be kicked out of the Republik of Kalifornia for owning too many firearms.

    I didn't claw my way to the top of the food chain, to eat only vegetables!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    Mal Paso's Avatar
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    Thanks for letting us know!
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check