RepackboxRotoMetals2Inline FabricationADvertise here
WidenersMidSouth Shooters SupplyLee PrecisionTitan Reloading

Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Looking for advise on putting a sling onto a Stevens 58 in 410

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Tokarev's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Canada (North of upstate NY)
    Posts
    699

    Question Looking for advise on putting a sling onto a Stevens 58 in 410

    Hi all,

    Hoping everyone is safe and sound, and my prayers are with all the members of this forum!

    I own a bolt action, tube-fed 410 Stevens 58 shotgun with a blonde stock that has no sling studs or other means of attaching a sling.
    After looking at many ads of hardware for this purpose, I am weary of the screws because I am convinced that they will work themselves loose sooner or later.
    Since I have never done any stock work, except for shaving a fraction of an inch from a brand new Boyds stock, to let my action drop in, I am soliciting advise as to the most reliable way to attach a sling to my shotty.

    Looks like there is plenty of meat in the foregrip area, but I am still not sure if just putting a screw stud in there is a good idea.

    Thank you!

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P1010053.jpg 
Views:	21 
Size:	40.6 KB 
ID:	258795Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P1010054.jpg 
Views:	15 
Size:	52.0 KB 
ID:	258796

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    NW OH Oak Openings Area
    Posts
    678
    I see no problem with a screw stud for the rear of the stock if installed right it wount pull out. For the front they make barrel band style metal swivels that clamp on and work well.
    Another idea looking at the pic of your stock it looks like it is generously inletted and maybe you could take a piece from a skinny leather belt or what have you and make a small loop and secure it to the wood on the inside of the barrel channel or a screw into the metal block separating the barrel and mag tube ?

    Jedman

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Tokarev's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Canada (North of upstate NY)
    Posts
    699
    Quote Originally Posted by Jedman View Post
    I see no problem with a screw stud for the rear of the stock if installed right it wount pull out.
    Thanks for the input! So you believe that something like this will not unscrew all by itself from being carried in the bush?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	s-l1600.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	30.6 KB 
ID:	258810

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sw pa
    Posts
    263
    the better guns have coarse "wood screws " in the buttstock. in the forend machine screws and a nut (usually round and inletted into the wood). they don't work loose if installed properly.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    3,678
    With as thin as the forearm is, I'd guess you'd have issues with the standard wood screw stud. They make a machine screw stud with a nut you inlet on the inside. I'd look at modifying one of those to work. You'd likely have to thin the nut some but it could be rather thin and still hold securely, and with some loctite, never give any trouble.

    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1006453692

    Uncle mikes makes similar as well.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    9,597
    The forend wood should be at least a bit thicker than the short stud pictured to work. If not, seek out a mag band swivel for lever action rifles. I've never had a swivel stud unscrew itself in 50 years of installing and using them.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    JSnover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Bensalem, PA
    Posts
    3,725
    Quote Originally Posted by Tokarev View Post
    Thanks for the input! So you believe that something like this will not unscrew all by itself from being carried in the bush?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	s-l1600.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	30.6 KB 
ID:	258810
    I have those on two of my rifles and they've never come loose. Installed them in the early 90s.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy kaiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Fly Over country in America
    Posts
    186
    You might want to consider a "shotgun" sling, which consists of two loops at the end of a leather, or cordura sling; one looping over the stock and the other (smaller) that loops over the barrel. It is easy on and off, and it folds to go into a vest or pocket when not in use. You can usually find this type of sling in sales catalogs that specialize in waterfowl and upland game shooting accessories.

    An alternative would be obtain a sling that has a large, wide front portion. Cut a hole in the front portion large enough for the barrel to go through, stitch around the hole to reinforce the stress area, then drill and install a "sling eye" for the common sling swivels to attach. While it's not the prettiest sling, it is functional, and more than serves the purpose when you need to free both hands at the same time. I have such a sling on an old Savage 1899 that I didn't want to drill the thin forearm or attach a barrel sling stud to its nicely contoured barrel. Good luck!

  9. #9
    Boolit Master pietro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    4,001
    Quote Originally Posted by Tokarev View Post
    Thanks for the input! So you believe that something like this will not unscrew all by itself from being carried in the bush?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	s-l1600.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	30.6 KB 
ID:	258810

    You have the wrong studs with that set - the buttstock screw should be a wood screw; the forend screw should be a machine screw with nut.

    The hole for the forend machine screw is drilled through the forend wood, into the barrel channel; then the inside of the barrel channel at the inside end of the hole should be countersunk enough so that the nut will not contact the barrel. (the end of the machine screw may also need to be shortened accordingly, to clear the barrel).




    Experience is a wonderful thing - It lets you recognize a mistake, when you make it again.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    1,380
    Pietro is absolutely correct. Machine screw for the forend and wood screw for the rear swivel. You may have to trim the machined screw for length to avoid contact with the barrel. I have a Parker Hale sporter made after WWII. They cut down the original for end and I used one of the lightening recesses in the stock for the sling swivel stud. And added a tiny brass washer to spread the load under the nut. And had to trim the threaded section to prevent contact with the barrel. Frank

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    JSnover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Bensalem, PA
    Posts
    3,725
    Quote Originally Posted by kaiser View Post
    You might want to consider a "shotgun" sling, which consists of two loops at the end of a leather, or cordura sling; one looping over the stock and the other (smaller) that loops over the barrel. It is easy on and off, and it folds to go into a vest or pocket when not in use. You can usually find this type of sling in sales catalogs that specialize in waterfowl and upland game shooting accessories.
    I always thought that was a great idea. If nothing else, a tough little sling like that can come in handy for a few other things.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Butler, MO
    Posts
    6,378
    Not sure just how thin the wood is on your foreend, but you can replace the machine screw theaded nut with a standard hex nut if you have clearance issues. IIRC they are a 10-32 pitch.

    I also tend to use Accraglas gel to lock the front sling stud and nut in place, truthfully, just about any good epoxy will work for this purpose.

    Robert

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    East TN
    Posts
    999
    I have a Savage Sporter 25-20 and plan to carry it out to meet the local coyote population. This rifle is in very nice appearance condition so I have resisted the idea of installing sling studs in the stock. Lately I bought a few shotgun slings, tried one on this rifle and am very happy with the way it works. Now I can retain this rifle's originality and still carry it through the woods with ease. Wish I had learned about this solution years ago with some other long guns I have carried out hunting.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Tokarev's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Canada (North of upstate NY)
    Posts
    699
    Quote Originally Posted by Mk42gunner View Post
    Not sure just how thin the wood is on your foreend,Robert
    About 1/2" in the beefier section in front of the "action".

    I will try two solutions: one will be the 100% leather, mounted to the mag tube in the front and the stock in the back, and if that will not work well then I will put the machine screw stud in the foreend and the wood screw stud in the stock.

    This garden-variety shotgun does not have much value in its original state and modifying its stock does not feel like butchering it.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check