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Thread: Struggling w Lyman mold

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    StL MO
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    400

    Struggling w Lyman mold

    Just got an unused, new/old stock 358429. Itís consistent......358 on one side of the seem .3557 on the other, both cavities do the same.

    Using WW, started w 2% tin, but upped it a bit trying to get the bullets just a bit fatter.

    It acts like the alignment pins are too big. If I squeeze hard the mold closes just a bit more, and itís a little hard to open cause the pins catch. If I squeeze the handles normally Iíll more then often get fins at the vent lines. Lubing them w syn 2 stroke.

    Iím sure itís capable of make 357+ bullets, just need to figure out what it needs to do it.
    My other forum, where I'm building a cabin....http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_3325_0.html#msg48687

  2. #2
    Boolit Master s mac's Avatar
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    May 2013
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    southwest mo
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    Sounds like you need to tap the pins in a fuzz to me.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Guesser's Avatar
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    May 2009
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    North Central Montana; across the wide Missouri
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    That's what I was thinking. The pins extend a little too far into the holes. They need to be minority adjusted. Happens from time to time, some more, some less. Trial and error will get you a long ways.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Space Coast, FL
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    1,663
    ^^^^That was my first thought. I would, I have removed sprue plate first and find a really nice flat piece of hard dense wood (broken walnut stock cut to a small block I use). Lay side with pins down and tap with something that will not harm block half. Drill holes where the two marks are just a little deeper and larger than needed to clearance pins laying block face down. Pick up a half in each hand and place together, try rocking like doing a Rubiks cube, no play? Lay block with pins on its back and tap each one with a nice flat punch and hammer, he said tap, maybe tap tap tap! Keep tapping in until you just feel female block free up on pins,stop. Flip over and start tapping back one at a time until the Rubiks rock in each corner is gone, then just a little more and get her hot. Sometimes they will loosen after a some use, just seems after extended use they need a little tap. Sometimes right out of the box they need a little attention one way or another with me. A touch of oil just on pin will help slick up before casting.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    StL MO
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    Thanks guys. One measured .005 longer then the other. So I used my vice w brass inserts to slowly squeeze the long one in deeper. It went in deeper then I intended, and ended up .005 shorter then the other. Couple test casts and the stickyness was gone and they jumped out of the mold, but still weren’t that round and still too small on the one side of the seam.

    Lots of trial and error, moving both pins in and out and it looks like I’m getting .3575 and .3590. Still getting some minor fins but I can deal with these dimensions.
    My other forum, where I'm building a cabin....http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_3325_0.html#msg48687

  6. #6
    Boolit Master RU shooter's Avatar
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    Nov 2006
    Location
    SW Pa.
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    2,463
    You might try to slightly break the edges of the opposing holes with a counter sink bit just go lightly
    If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check