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Thread: Alloy consistency witg scrap lead

  1. #21
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Jaque Janaviac View Post
    So this has lead to me considering whether I should try to mix all my scrap lead into one consistent batch. Or if I should sort it and mark the batches.

    Suggestions?
    Guess my first question to you is this scrap you refer to is it all from the same source or is it a mixture of different sources? Clip on WW, Stick on WW, Range scrap?

    I have mine separate by original source. All my COWW was rendered at the same time though by small batches of about 20lbs. as that is all my small SS sauce pan and hot plate will hold. Then I have about 30lbs of SOWW, separate. 30lbs of roofing lead and lastly about 70lbs of range scrap that again was rendered down in smaller batches but all collected at the same time from the same location.

    The range scrap I found to be pretty soft with a pencil test hardness of about 7-8 BHN while my COWW is running about 10-11 BHN.

    I also this week took weighed amounts of this range scrap and then added 10% of what I believe is monotype to this and after a couple days rest it pencil checked at 10 BHN. I was able to mix up about 26lbs of this alloy.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Luber View Post
    Anyone use some tin (say 2%) in their BP balls?
    When casting balls for muzzle loaders and C&B revolvers, I try to stay as close to pure lead as possible. I’m sure some tin and even antimony “sneak in” as I have used some scrap from a big ML range so who knows what somebody else may have thrown into their pot? Anyway, a big enough lot of ML range scrap should dilute down the Sn and Sb so that I’m casting pretty close to pure. With proper pot and mould temps you shouldn’t need any tin to get a good round ball fill out.

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    I mixed it by just weighing it out in batches. I will be keeping an eye on Craigslist for a cheap propane tank.

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Jaque Janaviac View Post
    I mixed it by just weighing it out in batches. I will be keeping an eye on Craigslist for a cheap propane tank.
    Go to anyplace that refills propane tanks. They do have an expiration date on them and they always have a couple that people leave when they find they can't be filled. They will give them to you.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    If you haven't done it before, do a search here on how to purge the tank safely before cutting into it.

    Are you just doing muzzle loaders? My understanding is that pure is the best for that. Combining multiple lots of scrap rather than keeping them separate runs the risk that one bad lot that isn't pure will make ALL your alloy less than pure. By how much depends on how big and how much different from pure that lot is.

    If you're comfortable differentiating what you are willing to put in your front stuffers from the harder stuff, then you can have two main lots: pure very soft scrap, which you can combine or not, and harder scrap not suitable for muzzle loaders. If you load for centerfire, and have access to tin and antimony with which to make up new alloys, then it's convenient to make one big batch from the hard scrap and then have it analyzed by BNE.

    I do what mjwcaster does. I make several 250# batches in my propane tank pot, and then combine ingots from each in a second melt, always using the same ratio. As I deplete the pot making a second batch of alloy, I replenish using the same ratio. Yes, it's twice the work and propane, but all the ingots in the second batch will have the same content. I once did that and ended up with 2000# of the same alloy. Even with your current set up, you can do the same, just on a smaller scale.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master trixter's Avatar
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    I know I am going to get slammed for this but, I use range scrap to make boolits. 99.98% of the shooting I do (Pistol and some .223) are used for killing paper. I melt the scrap and flux it with Ponderosa pine sawdust many times (more than once). Then make 1 lb ingots (Lyman ingot molds). I fill my Lyman Mag 25 and flux it again with more sawdust and after skimming the dross off flux again and leave the residue on top.
    What I am trying to say is this; for shooting fun and ease of making the things needed, for me, just "run what you brung". I do not shoot any competitions. It is just a hobby that I have made as affordable as possible.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    I keep ww’s together, soft lead in another pile and Lino in still another.

    I like to smelt ww’s and other dirty lead twice in big batches in their respective groups.

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check