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Thread: i want to blue a pistol...what with?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Tokarev's Avatar
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    I kept it in the basement where it is just below 70 degrees all year round. Not sure if it works better at warmer temperature. If you are interested, just toss a few scrap pieces in and see how they progress.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tokarev View Post
    I kept it in the basement where it is just below 70 degrees all year round. Not sure if it works better at warmer temperature. If you are interested, just toss a few scrap pieces in and see how they progress.
    thanks will give it a try

  3. #23
    Boolit Master


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    When the metal comes out of the bluing solution it is boiled in a hot water boil for the same time it was in the salts then rinsed in clear water [tank keeps filling and dumping]. Don't do that salts will crawl everywhere there is a crack or hole.

    If it does after the hot water bath you need to increase the time it is in it and CLEAN the water.

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
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    I recently rust blued a Colt Detective Special using Brownell's Classic Rust Blue. It was a first time for me, and I'm overall happy with the result. My steam closet consisted of an overturned plastic tub like you put your belongings in when moving, and a shallow metal baking pan full of water resting on the heat pad I use my my lower back -- it doesn't have to be elaborate. I made a couple of mistakes, but it was a good practice run for rust bluing a set of shotgun barrels I'll do later this year.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by mozeppa View Post
    i did one with potassium nitrate, and i really liked the color ...but hated the crystallization that occured...aka "the clean up"
    as it cooled there was crystal formation in all the crevices , holes...everywhere.

    cold bluing is too blotchy looking.

    so what do i use to get a nice dark blue color (chemically) without the intensive clean up?

    i'm not looking to use a rust cabinet either.

    thanks, mike
    Are you talking about "Nitre blue", dipping the parts in molten potassium nitrate? I would have serious doubts about the safety of doing that to an entire pistol as the molten bath is hot enough to destroy the temper of heat treated parts and thus could seriously weaken things like cylinders, etc. Normally Nitre blue is only used for small parts such as screws, etc.
    Statistics show that criminals commit fewer crimes after they have been shot

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check