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Thread: Anyone tried HBN?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    Anyone tried HBN?

    I add a 9mm case full of Hex boron nitride powder to an ounce of Kroil. I get a difficult aluminum mold up to casting temp and apply the kroil tothe cavities with a Q-tip then cool. I repeat this two or three times and the mold starts releasing bullets like they were spring loaded.

    After several hundred bullets, i repeat treatment. It has given new life to old molds which were sticky in the past.

    I have not yet tried this on Iron molds.

    Careful handling HBN, particles are smaller than pores in your skin.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    swheeler's Avatar
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    I've been adding it to PC paint
    Hell, I was there!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Burnt Fingers's Avatar
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    If I have a balky mold of any material I find a light smoking with a BBQ lighter solves the problem.
    NRA Benefactor.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have been using Liquid Wrench Dry Lube , L512 - 4 oz. bottle of the liquid , apply with a Q-Tip,
    $2.99 at local auto parts store...lifetime supply.
    I use it just like you do and boolits jump out the once balky mould .
    After a feww treatments the mould doesn't balk any more .
    Has got to be cheaper than HBN + Kroil and it can't work any better .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    I have been using Liquid Wrench Dry Lube , L512 - 4 oz. bottle of the liquid , apply with a Q-Tip,
    $2.99 at local auto parts store...lifetime supply.
    I use it just like you do and boolits jump out the once balky mould .
    After a feww treatments the mould doesn't balk any more .
    Has got to be cheaper than HBN + Kroil and it can't work any better .
    Gary
    Thanks, Kroil and HBN are not cheap

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    gwpercle nailed it post #4.

    Bought a single 4 oz bottle 4 years ago. 3 drops on a q-tip will do a lee 6 cavity mold and sprue plate.

    Lasts a LONG time. But when they start sticking the mold gets treated again when it is cool.

    The liquid evaporates long before the mold ever comes up to temp. Does a good job of cleaning, removing old smoke, etc.
    Does not migrate at all. Boolits "rain" out with a single light tap or a shake.

    Toughest of them all was my lee 7/6ths oz 12 ga slug with the drive key. That drive key did not want to release.
    I was on the road to beating my mold to pieces when I discovered this. The first 2 or 3 may require a healthy tap. The rest come easy.

    It is so easy, so simple, and so cheap I see no reason to try anything else. YMMV

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    cabezaverde's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    I have been using Liquid Wrench Dry Lube , L512 - 4 oz. bottle of the liquid , apply with a Q-Tip,
    $2.99 at local auto parts store...lifetime supply.
    I use it just like you do and boolits jump out the once balky mould .
    After a feww treatments the mould doesn't balk any more .
    Has got to be cheaper than HBN + Kroil and it can't work any better .
    Gary
    Is the mold hot when you apply it?
    Founder of the Single Shot section.

    A government big enough to give you everything you want is big enough to take everything you have.


    8 in the 10 ring, then I get a PING. Love my Garand.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    Nope, I apply to cold mold. Q-tip goes into each cavity, runs the vent lines by the time I am on cavity 2 or 3 you can no longer tell cavity 1 was wet 10 seconds ago. This stuff evaporates on room temp metal but leaves a dry film behind.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by swheeler View Post
    I've been adding it to PC paint

    So, you are using after the bullet has been cast. Does adding it to PC powder give you more velocity?

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by cabezaverde View Post
    Is the mold hot when you apply it?
    I usually apply to a cool mould . The dry lube is alcohol based and will evaporate quickly on a hot mould . Now before storing a cool mould I give all the surfaces a coat , even the sprue plate surfaces . No rust has ever developed and when you want to cast ...the mould is ready to go .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check