I’ve had some luck with 00 , 000 , 0000 (.380) and 00000 (.395) having killed deer with them all in 2 7/8” 10’s . I used to put the 00 and 000 in the SP-10 shotcup , but after getting the 0000 and 00000 to work without the petals and a mylar wrap I’ve gone to petalless for the others . I also still add buffer with the mylar wrap loads . Well I use buffer in all my buck loads but at first I didn’t when I’d remove the petals . I should go on and get some of the BPI already chopped has seal wads or whatever you call them , but trimming the others seems to work well enough . And I’ve got 25 of each size 0-00000 loaded so I doubt I use them up anytime soon unless I get a new to me Parker 10 and wanna test it .
Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines
In the 2 7/8” hulls I’m getting eight of the 0000 (.380) and six of the 00000 (.395) .
Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines
Can you provide some more details on the .395" buck? I'm using Remington hulls myself, which seem fairly thick compared to Federal. I feel like two .395" balls, plus wrap would cause chambering issues. .380" has a little wiggle room, but not much.
Have you tried without mylar wraps? I'm using them in 12 gauge, as the hulls I'm using shred during firing if I don't. In a higher quality hull it seems they hold up just fine without the wrap, and I've not conclusively found that they pattern better or worse.
I use mine even with a T shirt, it just has more tendency to snag. The LOP is definitely a problem for me with scopes, but has not with sights. The recoil pad is annoying compared to not using it, but I prefer it to getting slammed all day. I only use it for the bench, where speed is no concern.
I forgot i had a nef single shot 10 gauge before i bought my first browning. Cool little gun. It came with an extended choke at the time and i didnt know why because no one made chokes for it.
.395 balls do not stack you can’t get two in a layer but it works out I can get six in there with the petals removed . I like the mylar wrap and hopefully it cuts down a little on lead smears inside the barrel . I pretty much only use Remington hulls , buy a couple hundred new each year .
Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines
Interesting. I don't have a .395" mold at the moment, but I found I can fit 6 .457" ballls in there, which makes about 2 ounces. I could maybe get 7 with a roll crimp.
You’re missing the point . You’re using a 3 1/2” Hull and the thinner gas seal wad . I’m using a 2 7/8” Hull and the thicker base of the SP-10 . I put all the pellets I can in the hull using what I’ve got and it’s just as well since most all of my 10’s are damascus or twist barrels .
Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines
I've been playing more with buckshot and slugs. In the 10 gauge, I tried a few things. One was a buck and ball load of six 000 buck, and a .784" ball. Unfortunately this load tears the hull up bad when firing. I think if I added a Mylar wrap around the shot, it may cure this. For large buckshot, I tried some .460" balls. While I can get 6 in, 5 fits a lot better, and brings the payload to about 1 5/8 ounce. My load was Rem hull, Rem primer, 40gr Bluedot, x10x, Nitrocard, mylar wrap, 5 pellets .460" buckshot, buffered, fold crimped. This got me only 8,700 psi. I think I'll try 41 grains, and pattern it in my full choke barrel.
I tried slugs, the .784" balls again, this time with 46 grains Bluedot. I shot without a choke this time, and accuracy was not effected in the slightest. both 5 shot groups went right at 4.25" at 50 yards, and to the same point of aim. I'll likely just keep using the choke. Velocity was 1310 fps, with effectively a 20" barrel. With choke brings it to 23", and may be a touch faster.
Some had asked about recoil of this gun. Before doing any 10 gauge, I was shooting my 12 gauge ultra slug hunter. I was shooting the Accurate 73-770S slug. The load was a Federal new top gun hull, Fed 209a, 30gr bluedot, x12x and 3 nitro cards, fold crimped. Accuracy was very good, 4" CTC at 100 yards. Velocity was likely around 1100 fps, I did not test. Recoil of this was significantly more than the Mag10 with mentioned slug load. Night and day. The USH isn't light either, at around 9 pounds currently. The only thing the mag10 has is more muzzle blast with its shorter barrel and huge powder charge.
Speaking of the USH, I tried one load I've thought about for a while, it's a flop, so I will not post data. It was a .715" ball patched with pillow ticking, exactly as I would use in a muzzleloader, patch lubed with crisco. I rammed this combo down the bore, and found it a nice snug fit, but not too tight. I pushed the ball and patch in the hull during loading, and cut off flush with the hull, just like cutting a patch at the muzzle. I was pleased with the following group at 50 yards for a first attempt. The bad, I only pulled half a shell out of the gun after shooting. I could find no patches on the ground, and had a good idea why. BEHIND the 50 yard target I found the patches and hulls. What I created was a knife-free cut shell. I can't believe these shot as good as they did. I don't know any way to fix this, so I'm scrapping the idea. I may try the same ball with a mylar wrap for a patch.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |