Anything special I need to know? I really want to sight this thing in properly. Il probably go hunting with my rifle more this year, so I want it to be as accurate as possible.
Is it similar to open sights/ buck horns, or does something change?
Anything special I need to know? I really want to sight this thing in properly. Il probably go hunting with my rifle more this year, so I want it to be as accurate as possible.
Is it similar to open sights/ buck horns, or does something change?
Put the top of the front sight in the center as you look through it, and it should be a sharp image.
The rear sight will normally be a little fuzzy.
The sight picture from the front sight forward to the target will be the same as a open buckhorn.
The full circle of the rear aperture will help your sight alignment be better and more precise.
The buckhorn/open leaf is made to quickly acquire and follow a moving target,
the peep sight will be more accurate on a stationary/long range one.
Last edited by Winger Ed.; 03-10-2020 at 12:07 AM.
In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
"Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
– Amber Veal
"The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
- Wayne Dyer
good article- thanks for the link!
Loren
thanks for the link liked it good info
.
Anyone unfamiliar with peep sights should learn/practice they way they use the sight.
For a clean sight picture, it's best to either remove the rear barrel open/iron sight or switch it out for a folder.
The shooter should look THROUGH the peep sight aperture, and not "at" it - rendering the peep sight virtually invisible while shooting.
While looking through the aperture, the shooter should focus on the front sight, placing it "on target", beit game or paper. (it's OK if the target is slightly out of focus)
The shooter should NEVER try to center the front sight in the peep sight aperture, since the human eye naturally does that subconsiously.
While a small aperture works best for zeroing and shooting at paper targets, many find they attain faster sight acquisition while hunting if they remove the aperture (not possible due to the design of a few peep sights) and shoot through the resulting "ghost ring" w/o very much change in accuracy.
When I have a tang peep sight mounted on rifle that has a rear barrel iron sight, I usually switch the rear sight out for a folder, then set up the rifle with dual zeroes for different ranges (like 50-75 yds for the bbl sight & 150yd +/- for the tanger). YMMV
I've found that practice makes perfect...…..
.
Last edited by pietro; 03-10-2020 at 06:09 PM.
Now I lay me down to sleep
A gun beside me is what I keep
If I awake, and you're inside
The coroner's van is your next ride
Pietro has good advice. I have peep sights on around 25 rifles from 22s to 45/70. The tang sight I don’t use on hunting rifles. They are slow and basically for stationary shooting. On my hunting rifles I have receiver sight type peeps. These with large aperture are about as fast you can get on moving targets.
A Lot make the mistake of using to small a aperture in the rear sight for hunting, this limits the light getting to the eye and lowering vision. Sight in for a center hold. As has been said you look thru the rear not at it the eye naturally centers in it. A large bead front can help with seeing sight alignment.
A little trigger time and you will be surprised how fast and accurate these sights can be
Those old tang sights were often called "long range sights". When used in a pair with the iron sights they were often set at a longer range like 200 yards as an instance. If one gets really good with them and it is a good set properly mounted you can adjust for different ranges. Very few do that today and long range shooting with that type of sight at game may be questionable. Would take a lot of practice.
DEP
I used tang sights on both a Marlin 1894 and Uberti 1873 clone for fast CAS shooting...with the aperture removed.
You can shoot accurately and fast with them.
I would be concerned with mounting a tang sight on a hunting rifle that will be carried in the woods. Seems it will catch branches and/or get moved. That would not be a problem hunting from a blind.
I have a “beater” Winchester 94 that I purchased a tang sight for and hope to try it out this year.
Don Verna
Not what you are asking, but is the interior of the barrel on that rifle shooting condition.
Just curious, going by the look of that receiver and hammer?
Amendments
The Second there to protect the First!
Start out at 25yards, then 50 to get the windage right before you try long range. Save that ammo by starting close- because you can't bore sight the 86.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Also, does anyone know where I can get small wrenches to tighten the nuts for the sight? I cant find any that small...
I have a set of "ignition wrenches" I purchased from Sears 48 years ago. Even though Sears is not around much, they sold the brand. Ask at an Ace Hardware. Or any number of places that now carry Craftsman.
I used them for the first time in 30 years just last week. I mean, where does one find a 5/32" box wrench?????
Just a hint about mounting ... ensure that the staff is perfectly vertical with the front sight. The further up you adjust the aperture, the farther off your horizontal will be if the staff is not vertical with the front sight. I usually use a small level that I use on the receiver side to ensure plumb on the receiver ... then either a plumb bob or the level to adjust the mounting of the staff mount so that the staff is perfectly level/plumb. To adjust I file on one side or the other of the wrist mount to adjust left or right for that perfect plumb stance of the staff.
Other then that ... the farther up the staff, the higher the impact moves on your target ... to move the impact left on target, move the aperture left ... right impact, move the aperture right.
Adjust your aperture size so as to have as clear of a vision of the front size as you can get. In my case, I use this size aperture for hunting and target. In low light, I will remove the aperture completely as mentioned above, for a ghost ring setup.
Receiver sights are ... in my opinion ... the absolute best sight available. Fold it back over the comb when carrying and a fast flip up when needed. Great setup!
Last edited by bigted; 03-11-2020 at 09:27 PM. Reason: Further explanations
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
Anyone know a period correct folding rear sight? Or where I can get one?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |