Temperature range of PID thermocouple

[Tazlaw]

I just ordered a PID and it comes with a small thermocouple (k type). The listed temp range is 0c-400c. This is 752 degrees F. Is that sufficient for a casting pot? Or do we need to get one that will go closer to 1000 degrees F like a casting analog thermometer?

[RedlegEd]

Hi,
I think that’s really too close to the max if that thermocouple. I use these from Amazon and put them in a thermowell directly in the alloy. Hope this helps.
Ed

[georgerkahn]

I have three PIDs, and all have K-type thermocouples which give temperature indications over 1000* F. I believe you ARE correct in your want for a replacement. In my experiences, they are inexpensive enough that I've purchased a 2-pack as well as a 3-pack. With the regular movement they flimsy (imho) wire is subjected to when fluxing, adding ingots, and the like -- it seemed like a smart move. (I did "trash" and need replace one...)
Your present probe need not go to waste -- e.g., you can use it to measure the temp of your mould; your lub-sizer; and/or ???.
geo

[RydForLyf]

I get all of my PID "stuff" from Auberins.com. They're stuff is top notch and so is their customer support. I've been using their WRNK-191 Hi-temp 6" probe for 10 years and it has been awesome.

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...ort=20a&page=1

[beltfed]

I am going to Guess that these Chineese K Thermocouiples are all the same.
I have been using a 0-400c TC set at 405C for a long time, No Problems
Also have been using the Berme PID 1-400C controller, after resetting it to 0-450C
The whole setup works just fine
beltfed/arnie

[jsizemore]

1000+ is more better.

[44magLeo]

I have a REX C100 controller in my PID. It reads in Celsius. I cast around 350 C, that's 662 F. Sometimes a bit more if I think it needs it. When just mixing alloy's I run it up around 375 C - 707 F.
I found a conversion chart online. Printed out the section from 250 C to 445 C, That's 482 F to 883 F.
This covers any temp you will be working at.
I can use my PID as just a thermometer when I'm using the cut off propane tank on my turkey cooker burner.
If you shop around on Ebay You can find kits with the REX C100 controller, the SSR, a heat sink for the SSR and a K type thermocouple that has the short probe for around $13 shipped. These are for those who don't mind waiting for it to ship from China.
You can get the same kit from a US seller for about twice the price.
You can build it into most any box, I used an old cash box. The kind you see people using at yard sales and such. I bought a heavy duty extension cord. Cut the outlet end off about a foot from the end. Used this as an outlet to plug the pot into. Used the other piece as the cord to the wall. Used some for the wiring inside the box between the parts.
Cut the hole for the controller to mount, drilled mount holes for the other parts. Added a power switch.
When not in use everything winds up and tucks inside the box, Close the lid.
In use I leave the lid open so the heat sink gets air flow.
After I found a single outlet socket I cut a hole in the box and mounted it. This way I don't have the extra plug. Neatens things up a bit.
I just turn the controller on the pot fully on. This way the PID does the temp control.
The only thing I did that I really didn't need was I added an override switch. This bypasses the controller so it heats up just a bit quicker.
As the PID brings the pot up to temp it slows down as the temp nears the sett temp. The bypass keeps it running full blast.
In theory this would save a few minutes of time. Turns out I don't use it. I just turn it on and not worry about it over heating.
With the $13 kit a $5 cord and a few crimp on terminals for the wires you can build one. Oh, I did spend another $3.97 for a thermocouple with a 4 inch long probe. Even if you spent $25 for a fancy box your still under $50.
If you can replace a wall socket or light switch in your house you can build one of these.
I may buy a couple of these China kits to have spare parts or build more.
Leo

[HATCH]

you should be fine with that one.
Most people cast alloy between 700 F and 750 F.

Its rated at 752F but I have purchase a BUNCH of thermocouples over the years. And when I mean a bunch, I mean several hundred.
I have one that rated 400 c (752f) that has been running between 750 and 800 F since day 1. Temp depended on my alloy.

CHARLES

[Tazlaw]

I have a REX C100 controller in my PID. It reads in Celsius. I cast around 350 C, that's 662 F. Sometimes a bit more if I think it needs it. When just mixing alloy's I run it up around 375 C - 707 F.
I found a conversion chart online. Printed out the section from 250 C to 445 C, That's 482 F to 883 F.
This covers any temp you will be working at.
I can use my PID as just a thermometer when I'm using the cut off propane tank on my turkey cooker burner.
If you shop around on Ebay You can find kits with the REX C100 controller, the SSR, a heat sink for the SSR and a K type thermocouple that has the short probe for around $13 shipped. These are for those who don't mind waiting for it to ship from China.
You can get the same kit from a US seller for about twice the price.
You can build it into most any box, I used an old cash box. The kind you see people using at yard sales and such. I bought a heavy duty extension cord. Cut the outlet end off about a foot from the end. Used this as an outlet to plug the pot into. Used the other piece as the cord to the wall. Used some for the wiring inside the box between the parts.
Cut the hole for the controller to mount, drilled mount holes for the other parts. Added a power switch.
When not in use everything winds up and tucks inside the box, Close the lid.
In use I leave the lid open so the heat sink gets air flow.
After I found a single outlet socket I cut a hole in the box and mounted it. This way I don't have the extra plug. Neatens things up a bit.
I just turn the controller on the pot fully on. This way the PID does the temp control.
The only thing I did that I really didn't need was I added an override switch. This bypasses the controller so it heats up just a bit quicker.
As the PID brings the pot up to temp it slows down as the temp nears the sett temp. The bypass keeps it running full blast.
In theory this would save a few minutes of time. Turns out I don't use it. I just turn it on and not worry about it over heating.
With the $13 kit a $5 cord and a few crimp on terminals for the wires you can build one. Oh, I did spend another $3.97 for a thermocouple with a 4 inch long probe. Even if you spent $25 for a fancy box your still under $50.
If you can replace a wall socket or light switch in your house you can build one of these.
I may buy a couple of these China kits to have spare parts or build more.
Leo

44, that’s a good write-up. I did splurge $8 for a ventilated box. Of course it won’t be here for a month. (If then). Coming from China.

[kevin c]

If anybody here knows PIDs and thermocouples, it'd be HATCH.