Help with wrinkled bullets

[RydForLyf]

We knew that it would! I see where some mention alloy temps under 700°, but I've never got one good bullet below 700°, or if I did it was after I had cut my burner off and my molds were still hot.

In my opinion a Lee mold, while inexpensive, is harder to use than a big aluminum mold as it simply can't hold on to the heat. You've found your solution and it was more heat. It's all a balance and when one particular is not right, you see it pretty quick. It's really fun (NOT) when you're casting with a 4 ganger or larger and you have one cavity that won't act right.

mehavey's opening sentence is my favorite!

As an FYI, I cast everything with a lead pot running at 670F and below that when new ingot is added. I keep the mold at the point where it is just lightly frosting near the base. When I see that, 1 second on a damp towel pulls enough heat out to prevent it getting too bad. I do cast fast with a 6-cavity Lee mold to keep temps up. Keep the stream running constant when you're filling the mold and that has a lot to do with casts/hour and keeping enough heat in the mold to keep it just at frosting temps. I cool the sprue every third or fourth cast if it seems that it is taking too long to harden. That also keeps the casts/hour up and the mold hot.

As you've learned, mold temps matter.

[trapper9260]

For me I preheat the mold on a hot plate while I melt my alloy. I turn the heat up on my pot and also like stated to use 2 cycle oil on the parts to lube the mold ,do not need much. when the boolits are frosted then I low the heat some after. I go by what the mold tells me. Not the temp. each mold have its own mind. I use Lee molds and Lyman and brass molds.You will see the first boolits at time like the OP sees but after you get the mold up to temp it will go away as long you do your part of to have the mold hot and alloy.

[gwpercle]

Raising the melt temp fixed the issue.

Thank you guys for all the input!
B


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With a hotter Lee mould , slow count to 7 before opening the sprue and all smearing should be removed as soon as noticed , then lightly lube top of block and underside of sprue plate .
Counting to slow 7 lets the sprues harden...smearing means the sprue is still molten and has not hardened .

[Hootmix]

I had the same problem while trying out a Lyman ( .429 - 205gr ) that I adapted to my Master Caster ,, kept getting wrinkles in the nose, started a 680* ,, moved up to 725* , and cast with a " Hatred ", when the mould heated to the right temp,, the spru plate would " fall " open w/ the slightest touch making clean cuts ,, and the bullets have a slight haze,, before that had to bang hard ,and it does help to just break the spru open for the 3-4 count then dump. I poured " just " the nose of the mould ( fast ) for about 10-12 times to get the mould heated up,, as said here before " each mould is diff. "

coffee's ready,, Hootmix.

[kmw1954]

Bantou, I just started last summer and that was also with a Lee 2 cavity mold. I found that I pour and over pour to get started. Helps to bring the temp or the sprue plate and the mold up faster. I will also set the mold so that the end opposite the handle is actually in the molten lead until I lift it and it comes out clean, then it is hot!

I then watch the sprue puddle and once it changes color it should cut clean and easy. I cast until I start to see the bullets start to frost and then I turn down the heat a bit and start watching my tempo. By slowing down between the pours the mold will cool and the bullets will become shiny again.

Hope this helps some.

[fredj338]

I’ll give this a try. If I let the temp get that high I tend get a lot of tin oxide build up really fast so I have been keeping the mix below 675.


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Not much tin in clip ww so I wouldn't sweat that. Turn the pot up. I run my Lee @ 700. I cast mostly range scrap, add some clip ww if I feel I need a bit harder bullet. Check your vent lines around the nose area too. When using any alum mold, I count to 5 after the spru looks solid.

[Bantou]

Not much tin in clip ww so I wouldn't sweat that. Turn the pot up. I run my Lee @ 700. I cast mostly range scrap, add some clip ww if I feel I need a bit harder bullet. Check your vent lines around the nose area too. When using any alum mold, I count to 5 after the spru looks solid.

That’s exactly what I did. If I pour fast, the ladle helps keep the tin mixed in and waiting after the sprue hardens definitely helped with the smearing. The current issue I’m having is with the sprue plate getting too hot and creating a dimple in the sprue when cut. I have been over pouring though because I’m not used to the melt being that fluid. I imagine after I get more comfortable with the “thinner” melt and stop covering the whole sprue plate in lead, the problem will fix itself.

Regards,
B


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