DougGuyBazoo, the loads you fired today that leaded a little bit, how much resistance do you get if you push one of the boolits through the cyl. throats from the front with your fingers?
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Bazoo, the loads you fired today that leaded a little bit, how much resistance do you get if you push one of the boolits through the cyl. throats from the front with your fingers?
Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.
Also, before you end up pulling your hair out, pull a few bullets to make sure the brass isn't sizing them down.
I'll go against the grain in that I believe minor lead fouling is acceptable for full pressure magnum handgun rounds, and still maintain great accuracy. On mine, the lead fouling can usually be cleaned out with one or two dry cotton patches. Some people may call this antimony wash.
725,
Looks like they cut the forcing cone at 15 degrees.
Doug, I'll check it and report back.
MSM, the bit of leading I got, is worlds better than I did have.
Sorry to be quoting an older post...Originally Posted by Bazoo
It's more technique than the caliper itself, even a micrometer with ratchet or friction spindle can be miss-used (technique again).
A caliper is a rack and pinion with minimal teeth engaged and a micrometer is a threaded shaft with a nut and lots of thread engagement.
That nut can be adjusted close to zero thread clearance, that rack and pinion has no adjustment to compensate for wear that I know of.
jmo,
Last edited by Kenstone; 03-31-2020 at 07:46 PM.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
Bazoo:
Sorry to ask what seems to me to be the answer to your ongoing leading problem.
Have you tried "coated" bullets?
I don't cast and so I'm at the mercy of bullet makers for alloys available/lube used/etc. and find most available are on the hard side.
About all I can do is buy oversized bullets and re-size them to what I think I need and have gone thru what you have going on here.
Once I switched to coated all that measuring/sizing stuff went away.
I found a maker who coats swaged bullets with a concaved base...more of a shallow dish than a concave.
That thinned edged/soft/coated bullet base has a much greater chance of obturation than a hard lead/bevel based/uncoated bullet.
I no longer need to custom load for individual guns, and get good accuracy and no leading.
I kind of equate the coating as acting like a patch on a black powder ball/a coated hollow based wad-cutter or airgun pellet.
I've seen many pics online of recovered/fired coated bullets that have NONE of the coating scraped off in the rifling grooves.
You may not believe in my redneck logic here and science may prove other wise but the results I get is what it is.
Last edited by Kenstone; 03-31-2020 at 07:44 PM.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
I've not tried powder coating. I know it would solve my leading issues. Right now it's a pill I just can't swallow.
Would a Taylor throat do anything for this situation?
Why, is it because you want to keep the traditional look. There is not much $ involved in pc'ing. My oven pan came from a thrift store for .50 cents and a 15$ used toaster oven. 1 roll of non stick aluminum foil and an empty butter tub and you are in business.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
The key statement most are missing is: "the bit of leading I got, is worlds better than I did have."
I guess the question is, is the bit of leading enough that you can live with if it brushes out easily.
Maybe it will get better as the new barrel gets broken in?
Okay, PC, I have all required to give it a try thanks to a member here who helped me with a little starter kit. I am planning to learn it and use it, but I do not want to use it as a bandaid or a crutch. I like traditional lube and loading for nostalgic and historic reasons. It's just what interests me. I also am learning something through the process, which to me is valuable in of itself.
Can I live with the leading? We'll see. If it never builds up more than my limited test, yes- provided it doesn't hinder accuracy. I will continue to try to eliminate the leading, but unlike before it won't stop me from shooting the gun. Previously the leading had plated the forcing cone and went an inch into the bore. It required choreboy and considerable elbow grease to remove.
I am planning to try other lubes (im using BAC) for unrelated reasons, so that is a place I may look next.
If it comes to it I may fire lap the gun. I tried firelapping it before but I basically didn't accomplish anything because I was stupid of how to do it and made some mistakes. If I try it again I will follow the instructions to the letter.
I was shooting almost straight ww alloy for those first 30 test rounds. Now what I've got made up is closer to ww+2%tin. That should tell me if it's antimonial wash or alloy related.
Not to mention im going to find a plastic jag and do what Dougguy suggests in feeling for barrel constriction since I don't have pin gages.
Bazoo the first paragraph says it all and that's cool. I applaud your efforts and I am not trying to sell you on the idea even though I have had a lot of success with it. I subscribe to the theory that it will get better the more you shoot it as others have stated.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
Most of my bullets are COWW+2.5% tin. They still leave that dark gray ashy looking fouling on the lands, and maybe a little in the grooves. I consider it all lead fouling, because that is what it is. Some on here call this antimony wash. The key for me is that it does not accumulate, and the main one is that I get the accuracy I am after.
I have never seen a load that heavily leads a bore shoot good. On the flip side, I have seen some loads that lightly or moderately lead the bore, depending on the definition, shoot fantastic. And many times loads that leave a spotless bore shoot like garbage. I don't like to use a bore brush either. I've found a dry cloth patch works really well at removing this very light lead fouling.
Coated bullets might keep lead from fouling your bore, but they do not overcome fit problems. The majority of the most accurate rifle shooters still use lubed bullets, that is all I need to know.
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