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Thread: Question About Caps

  1. #1
    Boolit Man trapper44shooter's Avatar
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    Question About Caps

    I am going to buy me a black powder revolver & I would like to know which type & brand will work best the revolver is the Traditions 1858 Remington New Army .44 Cal. Steel Frame, 12" Oct. Barrel Buffalo I was going to get the brass frame model but I have had a lot of folks tell me they will not hold up to a max load so I am going with this one instead

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Probably going to need #11 caps. I use CCI and Remington brands.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    different size nipples take different size caps. some of my guns like #10's, some like #11's, and then there is the colt walker.
    if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    10's or 11's, you'll just have to try them. I generally use CCI or, RWS when I can get them.
    "In general, the art of government is to take as much money as possible from one class of citizens and give it to another class of citizens" Voltaire'

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  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
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    I’m a big fan of Remington #10’s and they seem to fit the Italian revolver cones right out of the box...

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy TheOutlawKid's Avatar
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    Mr.woodnbow has some good advice there...remington #10s usually fit all stock nipples..not to mention aftermarket nipples like slixshot etc. I prefer remington 10s and 11s due to they dont lose their priming powder as easily as CCI brand...not to mention CCI caps are natorious for jamming guns due to their shrapnel going everywhere while remington caps stay whole most of the time and usually just "petal" open.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Does anyone know any tricks to getting caps to seat better? I'm quite familiar with the caps I'm using, CCI #11. I use them on all my muzzleloaders, including a muzzleloader pistol. This Ruger Old Army is my first revolver though, and it seems I can't get the caps to seat properly. I replaced the nipples with those from Track of the wolf, which are made specifically for CCI #11's. I've tried pushing with my thumb, and I've tried using the hammer to fully seat them. I'm getting about 1 or 2 out of six that don't go off the first time. So far they have all gone off on the second hit. There is no burr on the nipple, and it's not specific to any of them. It has happened to each nipple. Again brand new nipples, never dry fired. It can happen whether they are clean or dirty, although no doubt it is worst when dirty. I've heard of using a small dowel, maybe a pencil to push them on harder by hand, but have not tried it yet.

    At least I don't have to worry about them falling off.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Chuck the nipples in a drill and use Emory cloth or a small fine file to take some metal off the nipple until your caps fit properly. Be carefull and take a little off at a time.
    Aim small, miss small!

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by mooman76 View Post
    Chuck the nipples in a drill and use Emory cloth or a small fine file to take some metal off the nipple until your caps fit properly. Be carefull and take a little off at a time.
    That's an option. One thing I've noticed is that my rifle nipples have a slight tapered section, while these revolver nipples just barely have the edge knocked off. I wonder if I gave them just a tiny bit of taper, plus a polish, that wouldn't help.

    As for seating, do most guys use the hammer? That's my preferred method on all my other guns.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Usually the finger or thumb is used. That's all it should take.
    Aim small, miss small!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Maven's Avatar
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    "This Ruger Old Army is my first revolver though, and it seems I can't get the caps to seat properly. I replaced the nipples with those from Track of the Wolf...." ...msm

    I had the same problem with my ROA: neither the factory nor Uncle Mike's replacement nipples gave reliable firing with either #10 or #11 caps. (It wasn't the caps!) After reading many good things about Slix Shot nipples (Badman Products), I purchased and installed a set: Goodbye problems! The ROA is now 100% reliable and as accurate as my BH & SBH with cast & weighed .457" RB's. I recommend those nipples wholeheartedly.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Size depends on the nipples, my Uncle Mike's need #11 while stock nipples need #10 but they are tight. To seat each nipple I made a "seating tool" from a 6 inch piece of old cleaning rod and a block of wood for the palm of my hand. Once I put the nipple on manually I seat it and can usually see them move some to get tight. Remember it is the concussion of something that makes to cap go off so pushing slowly on them won't hurt. I still point my 1858 Remington revolvers down range.

    Some things I learned when I got mine last year:
    2.8 grains of real Goex worked best
    Make sure the hammer touches the face of the nipple, mine rubbed on the sides of the hammer slot.
    Top off the powder with Cream of Wheat
    Use a "Tower of Powder" external loader, not the pistols ram
    Make sure there is about 0.008 clearance between the cylinder and the barrel, no locking up due to powder residue
    I had to rent the reamer to taper the inside of the forcing cone as all 4 of my 1858 revolvers did not have any taper
    Seal the cylinder openings with a lube such as Doug Knoell's or Garbe's solid lube from Montana (forget the exact name)

    Took me a few months and help from my mentor to get mine to really shoot but they do well now!
    John

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    All the practical advice above aside, what does the company / owner's manual say?

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 725 View Post
    All the practical advice above aside, what does the company / owner's manual say?
    Ruger just says use a capper, which of course isn't quite enough in my case. It also says to use a #10 or pinch an #11 if the fit is loose. It says nothing about too tight. I'm sure it won't be any big deal with a little polishing.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    Ruger just says use a capper, which of course isn't quite enough in my case. It also says to use a #10 or pinch an #11 if the fit is loose. It says nothing about too tight. I'm sure it won't be any big deal with a little polishing.
    So you use a capper and they don't go on and stay put and fire on first hammer drop? I have a Ruger Old Army and I use a capper and misfires are so rare I don't remember them. What kind of capper do you use. Mine is the bar type about 5 inches long. I can get a good grip on it and press the cap on hard with my right hand while pushing with the thumb of my left hand (that left hand is gripping the gun by the grips) on the back of the capper and then slide the capper to the side while still pushing. This motion is not as complicated as writing it. The left hand right hand thing is because of the location of the opening for the capping. The Left thumb guide the capper onto the nipple.

    I never understood why the loading gates and ejector rods are on the right side of single action revolvers. If they were on the left then you would never have to swap hands to reload them.

    Tim
    Words are weapons sharper than knives - INXS

    The pen is mightier than the sword - Edward Bulwer-Lytton

    The tongue is mightier than the blade - Euripides

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I got my Ruger second hand. Somebody might have already changed or modified the nipples. They are different than other nipples they are hexagonal.

    Tim
    Words are weapons sharper than knives - INXS

    The pen is mightier than the sword - Edward Bulwer-Lytton

    The tongue is mightier than the blade - Euripides

  17. #17
    Boolit Master Maven's Avatar
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    dtk, Unless Ruger changed the design or supplier of their nipples, the ROA's of ~1978 vintage came with hexagonal nipples. The Uncle Mike's and Slix Shot ones, are round.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by dtknowles View Post
    So you use a capper and they don't go on and stay put and fire on first hammer drop? I have a Ruger Old Army and I use a capper and misfires are so rare I don't remember them. What kind of capper do you use. Mine is the bar type about 5 inches long. I can get a good grip on it and press the cap on hard with my right hand while pushing with the thumb of my left hand (that left hand is gripping the gun by the grips) on the back of the capper and then slide the capper to the side while still pushing. This motion is not as complicated as writing it. The left hand right hand thing is because of the location of the opening for the capping. The Left thumb guide the capper onto the nipple.

    I never understood why the loading gates and ejector rods are on the right side of single action revolvers. If they were on the left then you would never have to swap hands to reload them.

    Tim
    Right. I use the cash capper, which allows a decent force to be applied. Still, they do not fully seat with that alone. I'm sure I could force them, but I don't want to risk bursting a cap.

    That's a good point about the loading area. You know, I never once thought about it before now. I'm left handed, and I never had to worry about it. I've always been in perfect position. Even double action revolvers, you see some fancy moves to reload them quickly. As a left hander, I never switch hands on them either.

    I guess revolvers were always meant for the left handed.

  19. #19
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by dtknowles View Post
    So you use a capper and they don't go on and stay put and fire on first hammer drop? I have a Ruger Old Army and I use a capper and misfires are so rare I don't remember them. What kind of capper do you use. Mine is the bar type about 5 inches long. I can get a good grip on it and press the cap on hard with my right hand while pushing with the thumb of my left hand (that left hand is gripping the gun by the grips) on the back of the capper and then slide the capper to the side while still pushing. This motion is not as complicated as writing it. The left hand right hand thing is because of the location of the opening for the capping. The Left thumb guide the capper onto the nipple.

    I never understood why the loading gates and ejector rods are on the right side of single action revolvers. If they were on the left then you would never have to swap hands to reload them.

    Tim
    Because revolvers were designed to be used in the left hand, while the saber was wielded in the right

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodnbow View Post
    Because revolvers were designed to be used in the left hand, while the saber was wielded in the right
    Hum, makes sense 100 years ago. Why didn't Bill Ruger or other modern makers swap them around?

    Tim
    Words are weapons sharper than knives - INXS

    The pen is mightier than the sword - Edward Bulwer-Lytton

    The tongue is mightier than the blade - Euripides

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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GC Gas Check