S&W hammer stud

[Tatume]

Hello Folks,

I have a Model 625-3 made during the Tomkins era. The hammer stud is greatly tapered, ground to a long cone point, probably to reduce assembly time. I doubt if the stud touches the bearing hole in the side plate at all. As such, I strongly suspect that the stud flexes during double action fire, inducing drag and inconsistency. I've owned the gun since new, and have often wondered if replacing the hammer stud would contribute to improving the action. However, I've never read a procedure for doing so, nor have I seen studs come up for sale from the usual sources. So I'm looking for ideas and experience.

One possibility I've considered is to pull the stud, drill the hole all the way through the frame, tap the hole, and make a threaded stud with an integral boss. The problem with this idea is that I don't have the skills or tools for the job, and I don't know anybody who has done it.

The obvious solution is to just buy a Model 25-2. I've tried that, and collectors out bid me. On the other hand, by the time I spend the money for what I'm suggesting here, maybe I could out bid the collectors.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks, Tom

[Dan Cash]

Buy the 25-2.

[contender1]

I'm not as educated about the S&W's. I'm not sure what you are calling the hammer stud.

However,, I bought out a bunch of odd & older parts from a gunsmith several years ago,, and there were a bunch of S&W hammers in various stages of repair or disrepair,, as well as some good ones. If you describe what you mena by the hammer stud,, I may have a part to help you.
A picture might help me too.

[James Wisner]

Wow, I had not thought about replacing a stud in years.
My father's old shop, which closed in 1995 used to be a S&W service center, and yes studs were replaced from time to time.

He had a fixture he had made to lay the frame on and clamped in place on the milling table, YES a Milling machine.
The stud was dialed in, and then, center drilled, drilled thru under size and the boss area milled out, this was all done to S&W specs.
Then with a special punch the remains of the stud was pressed out of the frame.

YES the studs are pressed into the frame.
Hammer studs were not available outside of the service centers and factory

The new stud then pressed into the frame, and the right side of the frame repolished and the frame reblued, or in stainless bead blasted.

This is not for the sometime gunsmith hobby guy to do.

As S&W dropped all of the service centers a few years ago, I would check with the larger old ones like Bolsa Gunworks in CA
They have the tools and know how to do it correctly

Good luck

J Wisner

[JRD]

The hammer stud is press fit into the raw frame, copper brazed, and then the frame is finished with all the studs brazed it. The studs are considered permanent parts of the frame which is why you never see them for sale separately. To replace the stud is quite an ordeal, would require machining out the current stud and figuring out how to fasten in a new, plus figuring out how to deal with the cosmetics on the exterior of the frame.
All studs have a truncated cone end to to facilitate swinging the sideplate into place. So long as the stud is not sharp like a pencil, it's probably just fine the way it is. I highly doubt the hammer stud flexes enough if it were indeed cantilevered to have much of an impact on the trigger pull. In my opinion there are probably many other areas to stone or polish that could smooth the trigger pull before I'd think of replacing a hammer stud.
Have you had a knowledgeable S&W smith look at the lockworks and got their opinion? Smoothing the rebound and making sure you don't have a long ratchet or stop catch are things I'd look for before thinking the frame needed a hammer stud with a square end.

[Rich/WIS]

Unless you're a skilled machinist this is not a do it yourself project. Not sure how many gunsmiths would tackle this either. Call the S&W service department and see what they say.

[Tatume]

Based on a synthesis of the various tidbits of good advice here, I'll go back to trying to acquire a sound (but not necessarily pretty) Model 25-2. Thank you, all. Take care, Tom

[Green Frog]

Tom,

I just noticed this thread and it would appear to come under the heading of “Lord give me the strength to change that which I an change, the patience to accept that which I cannot change, and the wisdom to discern the difference.”

It would appear that you have found wisdom, my friend. I’m pretty sure S&W’s service department would tell you the pin is “within spec” and charge you out the wazoo to change it if you insist on it.

Your Phriendly ‘Phibian

PS If the trigger shaft is sufficiently tapered, a good machinist with a watchmaker’s lathe could make you a custom bushing for that outboard side of the hammer to match the taper, but that would be way beyond my skill set and I can’t imagine what it would cost to pay to have it done.

[bobthenailer]

I had a broken hammer or trigger pin replaced many years ago by Pittsburgh Handgun Headquarters on a 29 S&W

[JMax]

I had a hammer stud break off years ago in my 25 but I was taking gunsmith courses at Trinidad State JC. I machined a new one and as described it took a mill and center cutting end mill that was the proper diameter. The stud was copper brazed to the frame and needed to be polished and frame re-blued. This is not for the hobbiest to tackle and needs to be addressed by Smith.

On a side note some very old prewar Smiths have screwed in hammer and trigger studs. Attachment 257745

Send it back to them and do not attempt replacing one and few if any gunsmiths are not equipped to handle the problem and if so it will be very expensive.

[Tatume]

Based on a synthesis of the various tidbits of good advice here, I'll go back to trying to acquire a sound (but not necessarily pretty) Model 25-2. Thank you, all. Take care, Tom

Got one!

[Green Frog]

“Got one” what? Did you get a replacement hammer stud installed or a complete replacement for the gun? Back in the days when I had access to a couple of experienced machinist/gunsmiths there would have been no question at all, the “proper” stud would be installed and lapped in and I would have moved on to other concerns! The best revolver man I ever knew lived not too far from you in Mechanicsvile, VA, but he’s been gone for 30 years or so. The best S&W armorer with whom I now have a working relationship lives right outside of Cincinnati, OH so I don’t get to see him very often! I get jealous of my buddy Dale53 who lives near this talented ‘smith when he talks about just popping over for quick repairs.

Whichever strategy you took, I hope it's working out well for you. BTW, Dale53 likes those 45 acp revolvers too and wrote a good article on their care and feeding for “The Fouling Shot.” As I type this he is getting ready to do another article on using a certain Flambeau utility box to neatly store loaded full moon clips. I can e-mail them to you as they become available if you like.

Regards,
Your Phriendly ‘Phibian

PS How did that Model 15 work out for you? I’m looking back on selling two 4” K-frame 38s, one blue and one stainless and am wondering whether I was too quick to let them get away!

[Tatume]

I'll go back to trying to acquire a sound (but not necessarily pretty) Model 25-2.

I bought a Model 25-2. It will ship here next week.
Yes, please; I would like to read the articles.