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Thread: J-B Compound Yay or Nay

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    J-B Compound Yay or Nay

    I have an AR Barrel that has a Severe Copper fouling issue. I have ran Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner numerous times. Then ran some Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber. Then back to the Gunslick. It still has some visible (with Bore camera) fouling. Thinking about trying the J-B compound and thought I would ask here. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I like JB compound. For copper fouling, I use ammonia and patch it out. Also, I use flitz to lap heavy stuff out. Between the two I get the copper out and end up with a nice clean barrel. Good luck.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    I use Hoppes Copper Terminator. Even with heavily copper fouled barrels, it does the job in one or two applications and doesn't hurt your barrel.
    I have been using it for several years now.
    https://www.hoppes.com/elite/elite-c...terminator-(1)

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    JB and Kroil! Best overall.
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    HE wants to know what YOU know.
    Keep it to yourself.

  5. #5
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    JB. If it is faint, you might get away with JB Bore polish.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    I tend to get lazy when cleaning a gun, I often soak the barrel with hoppes and let it stand for a day I do this till I am satisficed.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master gnostic's Avatar
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    Sweets 7.62 works in 10 minutes. You can tell because your patches stop turning blue...

  8. #8
    Boolit Master trails4u's Avatar
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    I'll second the Sweets... I've not used them all, but of those I've used Sweets has been very impressive. Just don't use brass/copper/bronze brushes, as the blue patches will never stop.
    "Do not follow where the path might lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail" Ralph Waldo Emerson

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnostic View Post
    Sweets 7.62 works in 10 minutes. You can tell because your patches stop turning blue...
    . THIS

    NONE BETTER. (I have found)

    It can me stinky do in well ventilated area. Clean your brushes off with brake clean as the sweets will eat them too!

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  10. #10
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    Ammonia attacks copper, which is why Sweets works so well on copper fouling.

    Even with a good solvent like Sweets or Hoppes, you may need to resort to a more mechanical method to really get all of the fouling out. That's where the JB & Kroil come in.

    Remember that solvents with ammonia will attack any copper, including the copper contained in brushes and jags. So if you're looking for a perfectly clean patch to indicate a clean bore but your using a brass jag or bronze brush with a solvent in between patches - you may end up chasing your tail. The green tint to your patches may be coming from the brushes and jags and not the barrel !

  11. #11
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    Bore Tech “Eliminator” is the best stuff I’ve ever tried, it doesn’t stink, and won’t harm steel.

    https://www.boretech.com/products/el...r-bore-cleaner

    I have no financial interest in their company, am just a satisfied user.
    Last edited by Buzz Krumhunger; 02-27-2020 at 07:52 AM.

  12. #12
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    If you have a bottle of JB bore cleaner sitting on a shelf for a few years, cut the top of the bottle off, pour off the oil, use the paste packed in lube grooves to firelap with. Best EVER firelapping compound! Full power loads too none of this wimpy mouse fart stuff..
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

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    Which JB? There are two different kinds... Bore cleaning and Bore Brite. I believe Bore Brite is the more abraisive of the two. IIRC the bore cleaning paste is around 1200 grit (garnet?). I have used it to polish crowns, do light fire lapping, and bolt lug lapping. It does cut steel, but very slowly. Seems to clean my bores faster than Hoppes, and without stinking or dripping.
    Last edited by Silvercreek Farmer; 02-27-2020 at 08:48 AM.

  14. #14
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    Outpost75 said; "JB and Kroil! Best overall."

    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol & Powder View Post
    Ammonia attacks copper, which is why Sweets works so well on copper fouling.

    Even with a good solvent like Sweets or Hoppes, you may need to resort to a more mechanical method to really get all of the fouling out. That's where the JB & Kroil come in.

    Remember that solvents with ammonia will attack any copper, including the copper contained in brushes and jags. So if you're looking for a perfectly clean patch to indicate a clean bore but your using a brass jag or bronze brush with a solvent in between patches - you may end up chasing your tail. The green tint to your patches may be coming from the brushes and jags and not the barrel !
    Also agree with Petrol & Powder. I spray off my bronze brushes after use with Carb Cleaner and they last a lot longer that way so the solvent can't/doesn't attack them also.

    I use Hoppe's #9 and Hoppe's copper solvent mostly. Then, if that doesn't work I use Sweet's. If that doesn't work I use the JB and Kroil. I've shot lot's of cupro-nickel jacketed milsurp (still have a bit of it) and the JB and Kroil is the only cleaning method that takes it all out.
    Larry Gibson

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Gibson View Post
    Outpost75 said; "JB and Kroil! Best overall."



    Also agree with Petrol & Powder. I spray off my bronze brushes after use with Carb Cleaner and they last a lot longer that way so the solvent can't/doesn't attack them also.

    I use Hoppe's #9 and Hoppe's copper solvent mostly. Then, if that doesn't work I use Sweet's. If that doesn't work I use the JB and Kroil. I've shot lot's of cupro-nickel jacketed milsurp (still have a bit of it) and the JB and Kroil is the only cleaning method that takes it all out.
    How exactly do you and Outpost75 use the JB/Kroil combo? Mixed, one after another or what?
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  16. #16
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    JB's is fine, I have used it for 30 years or more. The Remington cleaner is more aggressive than the JB's. For ammonia based I've used Sweets 7.62 and Barnes CR10, then there is the ultimate, Montana Xtreme 50 cal formula, I wouldn't leave it in the barrel too long. I have bought or used Kano since the moly craze of late 80's- 90's. Try this.....
    Charter Member #148

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use this when getting rid of copper fouling. It works GREAT. Also, it's more like the consistency of a light liquid soap and smells like soap too. I can leave it in the bore all night and the patch comes out a deep blue. repeat as necessary.

    Personally I wouldn't use JB paste for copper fouling removal. It's my opinion that the paste will also scrub places that do not have copper fouling. In my case, I remove copper fouling a few times a year in rifles I shoot in high power at my local club. In some of my rifles I'm shooting 80-90 rounds per week. So I will do a copper cleaning every 250-300 rounds. I use JB for lots of things. But not for frequent copper fouling cleaning.


  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have used JB bore cleaner paste for years ( always a couple jars on the bench) I use it mixed with Kroil. I work it into a patch with my fingers and a few drops of kroil around the wrapped patch. A tight fitting patch jag combination is best. In a pinch wrap the patch around a brush. Jb bore cleaner has been around a long time, I believe its volcanic ash from what Ive read, its non embedding so it dosnt impregnate surfaces like normal lapping compounds do. It is very fine as abrasives go. It is also very mild. It does good removing copper, lead, plastic and carbon fouling.
    JBs is a mechanical cleaner it needs scrubbing to work soaking wont do anything. The jag patch combination needs to be a tight fit. Wipe the rod off every 10 passes or so. And refresh the patch often, once the patch starts sliding easy its effectiveness drops off a lot. Use a rod guide with it also to support the rod and not let it rub.
    I have used it to polish ( Very slow but good results can be had) a bore in. I start with roughly 4" passes into the bore for 10 passes,, then go to 8" passes for 10 passes, next is 12" passes extending the stroke 4" each time until the length or the bore is reached. over time this will work a very gradual taper into the bore and a very fine finish. I change the patch and load each 10 strokes. I normally just put a wrap of tape on the rod to mark depth.
    There have been reports of heavy ammonia solvents etching bores when allowed to soak in certain conditions so I am very cautious with their use.

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy
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    I am checking it with a endoscope camera. Not going by clean patches. I tried some windex( 5% ammonia) last night just to see what it would do. It came out black as could be for 3 or 4 patches. Like I said in original post, I have ran many patches thru this thing and I see improvement each time but have a ways to go. Looking at all the replies it looks like either JB Compound (most aggressive I can find) or the sweets. Guess t will come to which one I can find. I may need to start a thread on fire lapping. That may be an alternative. I have never tried it though. Thank you, All of you for your replies. You have been most helpful.

  20. #20
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    Bore Tech “Eliminator” is my go to bore cleaner when I am at the cleaning bench. If I am in a hurry I use Sweets 7.62. On really hardcore copper Montana Xtreme 50 cal formula gets the nod. When I am out shooting prairie dogs the guns get a squirt of Wipe Out after the last round of the day.

    I don't use abrasives for general cleaning but I do use them every approximately 300 rounds for throat maintenance in my competition/long range/prairie dog rifles. I use the RemClean bore cleaner. It is now called 40-X Bore Cleaner. It's is more aggressive than JB. I do use Kroil after I have finished cleaning.

    I have both the Lyman and Hawkeye bore scopes.
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