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Thread: Pure tin

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coco89 View Post
    Thank you for identifying it. I got 40lb linotype pigs that needed tin to mix in.
    Are you making Lyman #2 or something similar? The Lino already has 4% Sn, twice what is considered the amount that gives the best fill out.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dusty Bannister View Post
    Have never seen 40 pound linotype pigs. Usually they are 22-25 pounds. Photos??

    Maybe you are talking about having cast lino scrap into large ingots. I would think there is a difference in terms.
    I will need to weight it again , iirc it's around 35lb but I could be wrong. It been sitting outside for awhile.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin c View Post
    Are you making Lyman #2 or something similar? The Lino already has 4% Sn, twice what is considered the amount that gives the best fill out.
    Thank you Kevin, I never had linotype before and the guy I bought it from say just add some tin. Been casting ww only. Guess I don't need the tin after all.

  4. #24
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    Myself, I would blend that Linotype with Pure lead, or near pure, if you can find some cheap. Linotype is kind of hard, unless you want a hard alloy.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  5. #25
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    Plan to use it for 55gr 223 on an AR. But hear that gun doesn't play well with lead.

  6. #26
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    Specific gravity test. Eureka!

  7. #27
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    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...t=Linotype+pig

    These are Lino pigs on this lucky fellow's truck bed. The shape can vary some, but generally they're long and thin, with open "ears" on one end, meant to be suspended on counterbalanced hooked chains that would lower them bit by bit into the alloy pot of a Linotype machine as it used up the molten metal (the open ears, designed to slip off the hook into the melt when the rest of the ingot was gone, are often broken off in scrapped pigs). They're generally around 10 or 12 kg, or 22-27 pounds, but will vary depending on content (Lino is nominally 84-12-4, but replenishment alloys could have more tin and/or antimony, which would make the pig lighter for the same volume).

    I have smaller, five pound Lino ingots in bar form, but haven't seen forty pounders.

    I read that metal ingots are called pigs because originally they were cast by running the molten metal from the crucible along a channel that fed several parallel mold cavities, which reminded the foundry workers of piglets lined up as they suckled from their sow.
    Last edited by kevin c; 03-06-2020 at 12:53 AM. Reason: Content correction on standard lino

  8. #28
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    RogerDat's Avatar
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    Lino being 4/12 one might add tin in order to "balance" the tin and antimony. If you add tin to get the alloy to 12/12 you could mix with plain to get good alloys at different hardness from mild revolver (1.5/1.5) to lyman #2 (5/5) A lot of folks use 3/3 as sort of the universal rifle bullet alloy.

    I do .223 in a mini-14 using Lyman #2 alloy, a gas check bullet, and powder coat. I get a clean barrel and no gas port issues.

    I use pewter as the tin source to add tin to printing lead that is then cut down to Lyman #2 you might want to try that alloy as a target for an initial batch of bullets. Linotype is pretty hard as is. Lot of antimony. But it can be somewhat brittle. Those pigs should snap if a line is scored around them and they are struck with a hammer, the little ears can be broken off with a hammer and are often missing. Can be a little too hard for a bullet as is. Cut 50/50 with plain lead it is hardball (2/6) and that is a commercial bullet alloy. Hardball is close to the same hardness as Lyman #2 but less tin so less ductile but not so hard it is going to shatter.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

    Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.

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  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Somewhere along the way, many years ago some large plumbous weights showed up here. They look like old fashioned cast iron window sash weights but are flat on the bottom, taper a bit bottom to top, then flat on top. They have ears or loops on both ends, but IIRC they are unmarked. I made the mistake of cutting one up and casting hollow based mine balls from it... they were kinda hard to load! I think I’ve got a couple of those left but will have one analyzed before I cast any more.

    I also have what was billed as “Linotype plus” that came to me as small (1 1/2 #) lozenge shaped ingots that are strung together on their sprue. I’m guessing the plus has more Sb & Sn even than the “sash weights” right?

    The fact of the matter is, I inherited so much lead alloy from my late father I’m having a bit of difficulty keeping it sorted out, and my casting needs ( mostly muzzle loaders and modern revolvers) demand such disparate alloys I need to be aware of what I’m doing.

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check