I am going to shooting lead round balls in my Traditions 1858 Remington New Army .44 Cal.Steel Frame, 12" Oct. Barrel Buffalo& what type of lead would shoot good & not lead out my barrel so bad
I am going to shooting lead round balls in my Traditions 1858 Remington New Army .44 Cal.Steel Frame, 12" Oct. Barrel Buffalo& what type of lead would shoot good & not lead out my barrel so bad
Just plain old lead. No other additives like tin or antimony needed. Hit up your local scrap yard and see what they have. Lead roofing, will have some tin where they soldered the sheets together but for all purposes its pure lead. Lead cable sheathing or vent stacks off roofs the same as above. Just trim the cable and roof vent stacks where they have been soldered together. Only bad part with the lead roofing sheets is that they have probably been tarred on the underside to adhere to the basic roofing system. Chop up in small pieces and melt out doors and flux often. Frank
Yep, pure lead.
And the world of cap & ball revolvers, there are an infinite number of opinions on the type and methods of bullet lube
I think I read here that some versions of Crisco shouldn't be used for BP lube because they contain salt? Do you do an ingredients search or are there specific types known to be good or bad?
Potassium nitrate, the main component of Black Powder is a salt. You have to clean after firing. If you need to load your firearm and keep it loaded for several days, then the no salt issue might be important.
I am wanting to know if there any other stuff I could use instead of that messy Crisco or bore butter to seal the end of the chambers
I really like the lubed felt wads over the powder. Haven't had a chain fire using them yet.
Well, we are probably bound to go down that path of infinite methods of bullet lube I mentioned earlier ....but, hey - it is a firearm's forum
I've used about every method there is and I like ........ a lubed felt wad under the ball.
Honestly, I think we overthink this stuff a bit.
If the ball fits the chamber tight enough to shave a little ring of lead off when you seat the ball, you will probably never get a chain fire.
Lube on top of the ball (Crisco, Bore Butter, any one of the other thousand recipes....) will help to keep the leading in check and the fouling at least controllable.
A lubed wad either under or over the ball will also work.
A lubed felt wad under the ball with bore butter or Crisco over the ball may be a bit of overkill but if you're firing several cylinders full in a row, might not be a bad idea.
A few observations: Conicals are heavier than round balls but I've always had better accuracy with RB's.
An "under the ball" lubed felt wad isn't as messy when you fire the gun as when the lube is just smeared over the ball - BUT, the lube may contaminate the powder a little under some conditions.
Everybody and I mean EVERYBODY - has an opinion on the proper care and feeding of a cap & ball revolver.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |