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Thread: Anyone make a two stage melter furnace?

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    That’s a nice setup. I could put a Lee pot over my master caster and it would almost be like it’s connected second pot as the Lee will drip anyway.


    Sorry, that was too easy.


    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    My twin Lee pots


  2. #22
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    That’s kind of neat. If there was a 10lb one, I would be in.

    Quote Originally Posted by onelight View Post
    how about one of these only 4lb but made to pick up and pour from. A hot pot
    https://www.amazon.com/Do-It-Molds-1.../dp/B002QG3H9M

  3. #23
    Boolit Master Drew P's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    My twin Lee pots

    Yes! Perfect. I was also thinking the 10lb on top would be best for a couple reasons. I think I’ll try this. I was wondering if the lower powered pot would have trouble keeping things flowing.
    Last edited by Drew P; 02-24-2020 at 01:16 AM.

  4. #24
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    This setup will keep 3 6cav 45 mold running nonstop..
    I have since PIDed both pots.
    The top 10lb pot has been turned 180 deg on its base and screwed to the alloy stand.
    This works brilliantly...
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Springfield View Post
    Of course the easiest way to keep up with volume casting is to buy a Magma pot. Not only is it larger at 40 lbs but the heater band is 1500 watts.
    Sure it's twice as big and nearly twice as hot, but at $600, it's way, way more money than an old 4-20 put on top of my old ProMelt.

    Ausglock's set up is the elegant inspiration for my poor but effective imitation.

  6. #26
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    I can't sit at the bench long enough to worry about more capacity than the Lee 20 pound pot.

    After pouring about 3/4 of the pot, I need to get up and stretch; walk around a bit. That gives time for the pot to melt the preheated (on a hot plate) ingots and get to temp.

    About twice through the pot and I'm done. I can cast more another day day.

  7. #27
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    I stand when I'm casting. Using 3 molds, I'm stepping to the side and then back to the pot". YOu can go through a lot of alloy in a short time..
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    My twin Lee pots

    Trevor, looking at your sprue, you start with the closest cavity and move away, letting sprue flow over previous cavity? Do you hold the mold at an angle, or do something else to get the sprue to pile up towards you and not go towards the next cavity? I’m doing just about totally opposite and would like to hear more on your process.

  9. #29
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    start at cavity closed to the handle pivot point and work back. Tilt slightly towards you...
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    start at cavity closed to the handle pivot point and work back. Tilt slightly towards you...
    Do you do individual shots into each cavity, or run a constant stream?

  11. #31
    Boolit Master Drew P's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here’s where my setup is now. Many mods on this one! Love using now works excellent.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by RydForLyf View Post
    Do you do individual shots into each cavity, or run a constant stream?
    constant stream..
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    constant stream..
    Roger that.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    start at cavity closed to the handle pivot point and work back. Tilt slightly towards you...
    I've been going the other way but I'll try that. To be sure I understand, the tilt would be handles up so the overflow heads towards the next cavity, or handles down so it puddles over the cavity just poured?

    Didn't you have a video of the three molds in rotation using the stacked pots, Trevor? I can't find it anymore (very impressive as I recall).

  15. #35
    Boolit Master Drew P's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin c View Post
    I've been going the other way but I'll try that. To be sure I understand, the tilt would be handles up so the overflow heads towards the next cavity, or handles down so it puddles over the cavity just poured?

    Didn't you have a video of the three molds in rotation using the stacked pots, Trevor? I can't find it anymore (very impressive as I recall).
    Huh I go the opposite too, pour towards myself with mold tilted slightly away from me downward.

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin c View Post
    I've been going the other way but I'll try that. To be sure I understand, the tilt would be handles up so the overflow heads towards the next cavity, or handles down so it puddles over the cavity just poured?

    Didn't you have a video of the three molds in rotation using the stacked pots, Trevor? I can't find it anymore (very impressive as I recall).
    Looking at his sprue, you can see the lead piling up on top of the previous cavity meaning he is tilting it back, towards him, which keeps the "next" cavity clear until it fills. Otherwise, you may get wrinkled noses from overflow curing before intentional fill begins.

    I too would like to see that video. I bet it's quite a "dance" with 3 molds going at once.

  17. #37
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Ausglock has a very good setup and not terribly expensive. Not many will do the volume of casting he does, but it is a one time investment and very worthwhile IMHO. For $80 and a bit of fitting it gives not only the advantage of speed, for those you need it, but consistent head pressure which should contribute to bullet quality. Having an extra pot on hand has the benefit of being able to cast if your primary pot stops working. Always good to have a back up plan.

    I bought a second pot to do the same but got a deal on a Master Caster.
    Don Verna


  18. #38
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    Yeah. I did a video but it was hosted on photobucket. They got greedy and all my files got deleted.

    I tilt to the rear... that is the handles are higher than the mold body... it helps flow the alloy into the next cavity. Any excess at the last cavity runs over the back, rather than tilting forward and it running over the sprueplate locking bolt.

    With 3 molds in rotation, you don't have to wait for sprues to harden or molds to cool.
    I use left hand for holding the handles, right hand has a pair of pliers for picking up the hot sprues and for tapping the handle pivot bolt if needed to release a stuck bullet. Right hand also lifts the pour lever. Pliers are also used to hold new ingots to lower into the top pot.
    Bare hands never touch alloy. It really is easy to do.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    Yeah. I did a video but it was hosted on photobucket. They got greedy and all my files got deleted.

    I tilt to the rear... that is the handles are higher than the mold body... it helps flow the alloy into the next cavity. Any excess at the last cavity runs over the back, rather than tilting forward and it running over the sprueplate locking bolt.

    With 3 molds in rotation, you don't have to wait for sprues to harden or molds to cool.
    I use left hand for holding the handles, right hand has a pair of pliers for picking up the hot sprues and for tapping the handle pivot bolt if needed to release a stuck bullet. Right hand also lifts the pour lever. Pliers are also used to hold new ingots to lower into the top pot.
    Bare hands never touch alloy. It really is easy to do.
    I’m glad you said you tilt back. I was looking at the sprue and thought you went towards you. I need to try this.

  20. #40
    Boolit Master Drew P's Avatar
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    So wait, I think I got your description backward. I also tilt the mold down, handles up. To me this would be “away” rather that “toward” but okay, but then you say you start the pour at the nearest cav and work down, away from you. I’m same except direction of pour. I’ve tried both ways and I feel like I can’t see past the sprue I’ve just poured to the next hole as easy that way. You can probably do it with your eyes closed.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check