So I sent in my Order to the CMP... M1 Garand.

[Dimner]

Well... I finally did it. I have been wanting one for many many years. Always seemed out of reach for me, I don't know why I thought that way. But yesterday I sent in my paperwork and payment for one of the CMP M1 Garand Rack specials.

This is a 100% shooter M1. Will have a new criterion barrel and new CMP wood. I'm not a collector. I will be using the snot out of this rifle. For the CMP - High Power season at my local club as well as a deer rifle this season. (Hunting deer a season is kind of a requirement for nearly all the rifles I own).

The description is as follows from the CMP site:

CMP Special Rack Grade (.30-06) M1 Garand. This is a partially refurbished rifle with a refinished M1 receiver, new production criterion barrel, new production American Walnut stock and handguards, and new web sling. Receiver is the only part of the rifle that has been refinished. Remainder of the other parts have NOT been refinished.
Receiver will have heavy pitting above the wood line.

I put a sticky for minimal pitting if possible.

So with all that said....

What do I do when I get it. I will do a detail strip and cleaning of course. However, I have never owned a M1 and I am not currently familiar with the gas system inner workings. I am only familiar with the basic functionality of the Garand the dozen or so times I have shot one. What parts to I need to inspect and or possibly replace with one of these rifles? I do plan to get the adjustable gas screw plugs from midway.

In a perfect world Id like to use PC cast bullets during the High Power season and then regular J words for hunting this first season. I realize that PC may be a pipe dream. I have done a bunch of research on load development, so I have a plan on how I will proceed with that. Just need some help planning on what I need to look for, replace and or test before I go into load development.

I realize I could go over the the CMP forums and ask these questions, but I will be honest. The gang here are a lot more practical where over there the have a large number of collectors and perfectionists. That's not a bad thing at all. But I have a hard time filtering the suggestions and opinions of the collectors from everything else, since I am brand new to the Garand. I want to stick to the practical and not jump down some rabbit hole (yet) when working with this rifle.

[Silvercreek Farmer]

Congratulations! Hope you get a good one!

[ShooterAZ]

Yes, congrats! Brownell's has a whole series of videos on the M1 Garand, might check them out.

[country gent]

While apart for cleaning Inspect the basic parts and op rod spring. ( I believe I would replace it just because). Five it a food cleaning and lube job remember plasti lube on the cam op rod joint. Pay attention to fit in stock and other areas, When latching the trigger guard pay attention to the tension it cams in with. Te forged guard will lock in tighter than the stamped one. Make sure the op rod moves freely and dosnt rub or bind.

[Leoparddog]

Congratulations. I've always wanted one but just couldn't justify it as it would just be a once in a while range toy. I would have liked to have gotten one of the CMP 1911's though. I goofed off and missed that window. Please post photos when you get it!

[TNsailorman]

Since you are in S.E. Michigan you should have driven to Port Clinton/Camp Perry and picked out your rifle in person. That is what I did some years ago and the folks there were very helpful. You will get a much better rifle by picking thru the stock they have on hand. My buddy and I drove up there all he way from Tennessee just to see what we were getting. We ended up with better rifles that way. james

[Der Gebirgsjager]

The rifle you receive should be fully functional, and it shouldn't be necessary to replace any parts. But, as you intend to "use the snot out of this rifle" parts replacement may become necessary in the future, but not initially.

There is nothing mysterious about the gas system. It basically just consists of the gas cylinder, 1 part, the gas plug, 1 part, the operating rod, 1 part. Since these parts do wear with the firing of thousands of rounds you may eventually have to replace them, but initially they should have passed inspection and be within acceptable specifications.

I have several of these wonderful rifles and have fired them extensively over the years. I did have to replace one operating rod because the tip, which runs back and forward inside the gas cylinder became undersized; and one gas cylinder which became oversized from the op rod tip running back and forth inside of it. But--not on the same rifle! Well, these parts have become quite expensive and not always as easy to find as they used to be, so my advice would be to lay in a spare of each. Replacement op rod tips are available and not too expensive, but replacing them on the rod is usually beyond the skills of the average shooter and is more of a gunsmith job. The gas cylinders can be relined, but it's not so easy to find someone to do it. One other answer is oversize tips for use in worn cylinders. But, honestly, if you're starting with good parts it will take lots of shooting to get to the point of these replacements/repairs being needed.

The remainder of the gun is relatively trouble free, and if any of the small parts are needed they are still readily available.

There are several good instructional books about the care, maintenance, and feeding of the M1 available. Even the original Army tech manuals (or reprints) can be purchased. For just assembly/disassembly instructions I recommend J.B. Woods book "Firearms Assembly/Disassembly, Part IV, Centerfire Rifles", a softback Gun Digest-type book, Krause Publications. You might find a used one on e-bay.

[rmcc]

I bought one years ago, problem is you can't stop at one! Up to 3 now!! Enjoy, you made a GREAT decision!!

[Texas by God]

I had a Century Arms “mixmaster” of US, Danish, and Beretta parts that had function problems but I still loved it. I only desire one 30-06 at my age and a CMP Garand is it.

[Sig556r]

Don't keep your hopes high on pitting, you will get pitting even above wood, but if you're looking for a shooter, the new CBI barrel & new walnut furniture is already worth the $650 with a sling & hard case + free shipping. I shot PC on mine & another FG with 3031 & 4064.
Download the orig tech manual in pdf available online. It'll help you in assy/disassy & maintenance even trouble shooting. CMP armorers do a fine job in restoring these 80-yr olds.

[DukeConnors]

Grease is your friend.

[Barman54]

I had Twelve at one time, now I'm at 5, two Matched out 30.06, and .308 both in Fajen Stocks, the other three are as Issued.
Have one from each Maker, Springfield has two.
Bought my first one in 1986 a Blue Sky with a Shotgun for a Barrel, rifling was GONE, made it into my 30.06 Match.
Bought my 1st DCM in 1994, then it became the CMP, had to do the Finger Print back then.

I would watch the adjustable gas plug, used in on my Matched .308, broke the Pin in two, holding the Catch and Guide in.
Was shooting 175 w/ 4064 at 600 Yards, Got it fixed, have not used it Since.

Also, I do not remove the Trigger groups when not in use, some do.

Reload, using IMR 4895, 4064, using 135 (Disc), 168, and 175's.

Have other Tips I do when Cleaning, will Post later
Good Luck with your New Rifle

Barman54
Out

[country gent]

On my bedded match grade m1s and m1as I dont remove the trigger group but I do unlatch the trigger guard and relieve the tension when they are to be stored for awhile. This will help extend he life of the bedding some. It may also help with a tightly bedded rack grades bedding even more since the wood is softer.

[gunauthor]

Got my M1 in the late 80s (it was called the DCM then). It is a Springfield armory made late in WW2. I think it's all original as the barrel is labeled SA-1 45. Great gun, I'm sure you'll enjoy it a bunch.

[Wag]

Congrats!

The first thing I was told when I bought my first was, don't shoot modern factory ammo in the rifle. It's too powerful and will damage it.

--Wag--

[trapper9260]

Here is a video you might like to watch also. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebmGLDG1g5M

[Dimner]

Since you are in S.E. Michigan you should have driven to Port Clinton/Camp Perry and picked out your rifle in person. That is what I did some years ago and the folks there were very helpful. You will get a much better rifle by picking thru the stock they have on hand. My buddy and I drove up there all he way from Tennessee just to see what we were getting. We ended up with better rifles that way. james

I considered going to the north store, but I have been watching the reports on the CMP site about the selection of rifles at the store. They have been very slim. And by all reports the current stock is not in the price range and accuracy (throat/muzzle score) that I was looking for. I thought about it a bunch. If I were going for a collector version, I would have done it in a heartbeat. The sad thing is, the north store is no where as near as stocked as the south. Speculation is that may change after the north store moves to the main building where people sign in for natonal matches.

I guess also, I didn't want to take a 1/2 day off work, pay for a tank and a half of gas, and then sales tax on top of it if I were just going to end up with the same rifle as mail order.

And yes, im fast learning this will not be my only M1

[Silvercreek Farmer]

An update?

[Dimner]

Nothing yet... I keep checking my CC to see if they have run it, and they have not

[roverboy]

Well hope it arrives soon. And it looks good too.