Keeping Scope on 44 Mag from slipping?

[DonMountain]

I have a stainless Ruger Redhawk with 7-1/2" barrel that I use for deer hunting with a 4x Leupold scope mounted in Ruger rings. I usually hunt with 300 grain gas checked bullets over a heavy load of H110, and the recoil slides the scope forward until it hits the front site. What are the tricks to anchoring this scope better in the rings?

[GBertolet]

One thing to try. Put plumber's teflon tape around the scope in the rings. It acts as a non slip agent, plus won't mar the scope tube. I use this all the time on heavy recoiling rifles. Granted, the velocity of recoil in the 44 mag might be more than a rifle, due to the lesser weight, but this is worth a try.

[Earlwb]

I was thinking that a small drop of Locktite 603 gear glue would do the trick. Maybe red locktite or even the blue temporary Locktite would work. You just put a drop on the inside of the top ring half. That way you could move or change it if needed. But I like using the Teflon tape method first though.

[M-Tecs]

Rosin works very well without any of the down sides other methods tend to have.

For tape I recommend https://www.highpoweroptics.com/ring...s-p-24944.html

http://www.opticstalk.com/teflon-tap...opic12833.html

Teflon tape has a very low coefficient of friction; in other words it is slippery. Teflon tape is used as a lubricant and gasket between the threads of fittings. You don't want to use Teflon between scope rings any more than you would want to have oil between the rings and the scope. I often recommend wiping a thin layer of (red or blue) liquid thread locker (loctite) on the inside of the rings if you want to increase your ring holding strength.

If you want you avoid ring marks you might want to try Dale's suggestion of double sided tape.

[Tim357]

Ross Seyfried used Scotchcote on the rings. Said it held well. YMMV

[onelight]

I have used clear fingernail polish on hard kickers and it worked for me. Clean the mating surfaces with alcohol .

[RedHawk357Mag]

I use Wegiland scope rail on 5.5 Redhawk with a Match dot. I don't shoot 300 plus Dino Rollers but 280s at 1050 haven't shifted so far. I can shoot a picture tomorrow if you need to see what it looks like.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

[dhom]

I have used pure silicon inside the rings on hard kickers. It only takes a very small bead but, the scope will never move.

[475BH]

Take off the front sight. You don't use it anyway.

[hawkenhunter50]

I have almost the same setup as you mention but don't have the same issue. I did however lap the scope rings before installing the scope. Not sure if this maybe makes the difference. I dont use anything else between the scope and rings. I've lapped a few sets of Ruger rings and have found they take a bit of lapping to get even contact. So if you have rings that arent making full contact, it could be allowing the issue.

[georgerkahn]

Years back I had a Weaver scope on a .30-30 WCF lever which would also migrate forward. I meticulously cleaned both the 'scope and inside of rings, and reassembled to find exact spot where I wanted everything. I then put a teeny drop of Wite-Out on the scope, with a second on the edge of front ring -- to enable my reassembly after taking apart -- to same exact locations. While apart, I put a small drop, each, of clear fingernail polish on both ring tops and bottoms of the mounts, and just put it all back together. We had/used this firearm for more than a decade, and the scope never moved. "Worked for me "
BEST!
geo

[Ed K]

I have almost the same setup as you mention but don't have the same issue. I did however lap the scope rings before installing the scope. Not sure if this maybe makes the difference. I dont use anything else between the scope and rings. I've lapped a few sets of Ruger rings and have found they take a bit of lapping to get even contact. So if you have rings that arent making full contact, it could be allowing the issue.

This has been my experience as well.

[contender1]

Those must be some big,,, mean, heavy skinned deer to require such a load. But,, that's not the discussion.

Scope ring lapping is THE first thing necessary. The more contact the rings make with the scope,, the better adhesion. Next,, the rosin mentioned is a sticky agent that won't damage anything.
And,, folks who enjoy shooting heavy kickers use a mounting trick,, they START by putting the scope turret base closest to the shooter, next to the rear ring so it can't shift forward. If the front sight is in the way of that, the Redhawk front sight can easily be removed & saved, & replaced as necessary.

Now,, my opening comment about the big mean deer. PLEASE understand I only was putting a little humor into things. BUT,, now,, I will offer a POLITE discussion on handgun hunting. I've killed well over 100 whitetails with a handgun. I've taken elk, & many other critters with a handgun. This past fall,,, on an elk hunt,, many of the guys in the group didn't know me,, and were amazed at the fact I only took handguns with me for the elk hunt. My preferred caliber? .45 Colt. My bullet? 280 grn solid SWC design. My muzzle velocity? Almost 1100 fps. I never felt undergunned, under powered, or in the least bit worried about the choices I made. MANY is the very big game animal that has fallen to similar calibers, loads & such. H110 requires a near max charge with most loads to be safe & usable. A 300 grn bullet with a heavy load of H110 is well beyond the necessary power to take whitetails anywhere in North America. I DO fully,,, and I mean FULLY appreciate the fact that some folks prefer heavy loads & such. But if it's causing problems,, with scope movement,, it's likely also causing internal issues if used a lot. Forcing cones,, are usually the first obvious place damage to firearms is noted. Throst erosion is another place.
Now,, I also teach Hunter Safety. Part of the class is hunter ethics. If your gun recoils enough to move the scope,, then if you take a shot,, and it moves,, it's likely the zero moves as well. Your follow up shots won't go where you think they should. As such,, you might just wound a deer instead of a clean killing shot.

All of this is to POLITELY and I sincerely mean POLITELY,,, suggest a different bullet & load choice? I'd be glad to discuss this at length,, over the phone, PM's or emails.

[dkf]

Would not hurt to lap the rings the rings to make sure you are making good contact with the tube of the scope. A dab or two of Permatex 64040 retaining compound on the inside of each ring will hold it.

[country gent]

You could if there is room add a third ring to the set up. But then using a ring from a different set makes lapping the rings necessary also. Lapping the rings increases there holding power quite a bit by increasing surface area and alignment between the 2 or 3. A light wipe of powdered rosin provides more gripping to the rings natural bite. The recoil of your load and the flip with the handgun may be working together to move the scope. Torque the rings screw in place when assembling them.
1) if possible add a 3rd ring to the mount
2) lapp rigs in to better alignment
3) powdered rosin wiped into rings lightly
4) torque rings screws in place

[DocSavage]

Never had a scope ring combo slip myself but the other methods do work. If you can get some plastic shim stock say .003 or .005 put a piece between scop and ring that once snuggled down scope shouldn't move.

[DonMountain]

The rings I have were purchased from Ruger with the gun, and fit into the machined notches in the top of the barrel. Its a standard RedHawk, pre Super RedHawk days. So, how would I go about lapping the scope rings? I assume measure the diameter of the scope tube with a micrometer and then turn a steel shaft of that size in my lathe and coat it with valve grinding compound and slide it back and forth in the gun mounted scope rings? And what will that do to the very small gap existing between the upper and lower scope ring pieces? I might lose the clearance necessary to be able to clamp them on again, and then have to come up with some sort of shim?

[DonMountain]

Those must be some big,,, mean, heavy skinned deer to require such a load. But,, that's not the discussion.

Now,, my opening comment about the big mean deer. I've killed well over 100 whitetails with a handgun. I've taken elk, & many other critters with a handgun. . . . . A 300 grn bullet with a heavy load of H110 is well beyond the necessary power to take whitetails anywhere in North America.

Deer hunting aside, the main reason for these super heavy 300 grain bullet loads using H110 is due to a huge encroachment of armadillos onto our farm here in mid-Missouri. And everybody knows armadillos are almost completely bullet proof unless you use a heavy at maximum velocity. Hence, my target practice with these extreme loads.

[murf205]

I have the same gun and a 2x Leupold scope and I use Scotch 33+ electrical tape(NOT the cheap Harbor Freight tape) trimmed to fit the rings. Put the sticky side to the ring surface. Mine has a TON of rounds through it in the 12 yrs I've owned it and lots of 270 and 310gr boolits without a hitch. AND it has been zeroed 1 time and that was when I put the rig together.

[35remington]

I shoot armadillos with 22s. Maybe the above comment was tongue in cheek? The bullets do not bounce off.