3B the target was a 10 yards.
You need to get off the lead sled.
With a springer you need to use an "Artillery Hold"
You have the gun sitting on a front bag and maybe a rear bag as well if you have one. You hold the gun loosely so that it is free to move in a strait line forward and rearward under recoil. The Pellet is still in the barrel as it starts to move during recoil and as such anything you do to the gun while it is going thru it's firing cycle will affect where the pellet goes.
I literally shot all my guns on top of a 6x6 with a towel on top of it for a rest. I had a loose cheek weld (enough to line up with the scope) and a light grip with the firing hand and didn't have the gun pulled tight against my shoulder. It was free to move about maybe 1/4-1/2" on its own.
This is the way to impose the least amount of outside influence on the gun I have found. I got it off one of the Airgun Sites and it works..
The whole point of the 10 yard zero is because the pellet will rise out to 20-25 yards and then start to drop back to zero at 40 yards. So theoretically your 23 yard zero would shoot high before 23 and low beyond it. But once again you'll never know for sure until you shoot the gun at the various distances and see exactly what it is doing with any given pellet. I recommend shooting a 5 shot group with each pellet style.
Once you get all this sussed out you write down the results and take pics of the targets so we can see them and you won't have to do it again, and you'll know exactly what the gun will do.
The R1 is the least accurate of all my guns. The HW35E (newest to me) is probably the most accurate, with the 35EB (first gun)next and then the .22 cal. HW77. None of them are slouches.
Randy