ADvertise hereTitan ReloadingRotoMetals2Inline Fabrication
RepackboxWidenersLee PrecisionMidSouth Shooters Supply

Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Chase the threads on an H&G handle?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Inland from Seacoast New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,079

    Chase the threads on an H&G handle?

    My go to 38 special and 357 (light load) mould, the Hensley & Gibbs 4 cavity #51 has loosened up a bit. The handles are not snug at the center nut and bolt, thus the pins are a bit out of alignment.
    It will close but it nicks the inside of the hole.
    I knew what I had to do - tighten the nut to get the handles more snug,.....wrong!
    The nut would not tighten no matter what I did. I finally went the other way and took the nut off the bolt and separated the handles.
    It looks like the threads are pretty worn.
    I know that I can recut the threads but i can't even boil water. That really IS above my pay grade.
    Are there any videos that show me how to do this?
    Anyone out there want to do this and I'll trade brass, soft lead (stick on ww's) , cast bullets or something for your assistance.
    Any thoughts?
    Thanks!
    Collector and shooter of guns with selector switches and threaded barrels. Collector of suppressors, SBR's, AOW's and SBS's. Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    11,355
    If your handles use a shoulder bolt at the hinge join it may not be the thread but wear between head and the 2 handles combined. Here a new shoulder bolt may do the trick or just a small amount at a time removed from where the nut bottoms on it. If you can find a slightly longer one a domed spring washer can be placed under the head to hold tension.
    If its a standard bolt then a new bolt should do fine

  3. #3
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Inland from Seacoast New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,079
    Yes, but.........
    The handle itself is threaded in one of the holes. I guess this threaded bolt/nut/handle all work together to keep things perfectly in line.
    I'll take a look at how they are put together to see if it might just be wear on the handle or the bolt. That never occurred to me.
    I really like to keep things in their original state so that is why I thought it might be easier/proper to chase out the threads.
    I took another handle from another 4 cavity H&G and it worked perfectly, so I wasn't out of business.
    I cast 800 +/- 51 gc's last night....more to come in another session or two.
    Thanks for the idea.
    Collector and shooter of guns with selector switches and threaded barrels. Collector of suppressors, SBR's, AOW's and SBS's. Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Katy, Texas
    Posts
    2,389
    I have a number of H&G molds and have made screws for several. I have never seen an H&G mold where the original handles were threaded and held snug. The H&G handles were custom fitted to each mold and designed to allow the mold blocks to pivot. This slight movement in the blocks is intentional to allow the blocks to align when closed, so as to not damage the pins.

    As described a screw with a long shoulder screws into the bottom of the block and the portion of the screw (shoulder) without threads goes through the handles and into the portion of the block above the handles. This bare portion of the screw acts as a smooth pin and allows the blocks to pivot.

    Some photos may help to see what you have and how it might be fixed.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    South Western NC
    Posts
    2,068
    Your hinge faces have worn enough to make the hinge a little sloppy. First thing I'd do is to make a shim stock washer to add to the bolt stack so the slack won't matter.

    You can find the needed washer thickness by slipping auto "feeler gage" blades in the hinge slot until you find what thickness you need. Many auto parts stores have a selection of Brass shim stock. Or, even a strip of tin can steel may do it.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Inland from Seacoast New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,079
    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonheart View Post
    This slight movement in the blocks is intentional to allow the blocks to align when closed, so as to not damage the pins.

    Some photos may help to see what you have and how it might be fixed.
    I agree that there should be SOME play to allow the pins to align. But this was WAY too much play. I could see easily damaging the pins/alignment holes with this much play.
    I DID learn what a shoulder bolt was and maybe I can find a solution to the problem.
    I am not too good with the camera but I will try to post some photos as soon as I have the chance.
    Meanwhile, I still need to complete the casting sessions - maybe two more to get the 2000 needed for sizing/lubing/gc'ing.
    Load = 14.2 gr WW296. That should last me for the 357's for some time.
    Collector and shooter of guns with selector switches and threaded barrels. Collector of suppressors, SBR's, AOW's and SBS's. Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    11,355
    A straight edge or flat bar to set the moulds on when closig will help to pre align them when closing. I use a piece of angle iron set on the bench wide side down point up.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Inland from Seacoast New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,079
    Well, as it turns out, I cannot get any closeup photos with my existing lenses.
    I may have to find a lens that can do the trick.
    Collector and shooter of guns with selector switches and threaded barrels. Collector of suppressors, SBR's, AOW's and SBS's. Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check