Titan ReloadingRotoMetals2ADvertise hereInline Fabrication
RepackboxLee PrecisionWideners

Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Stock Finishing

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    DFW
    Posts
    135

    Stock Finishing

    First off, if these are your pics, I apologize, I borrowed them from the www.
    I have a factory Encore stock that looks similar to the first pic, just the factory finish. I much prefer the subdued look of the second one. Looking for input on how to get there. I'm thinking it is just a linseed oil treatment. Appreciate any help you guys can provide
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	pix245180102.jpg 
Views:	17 
Size:	65.2 KB 
ID:	256770

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	pix622627336.jpg 
Views:	19 
Size:	25.7 KB 
ID:	256769

  2. #2
    Boolit Master pietro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    3,822
    .

    Strip (not sand), stain with one or more applications of MinWax Black Walnut stain & finish with multiple coats of TruOil or other gunstock finisher.

    .
    Experience is a wonderful thing - It lets you recognize a mistake, when you make it again.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Chad5005's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Buena Vista GA
    Posts
    402
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	09649303-5AE2-4C18-BED0-EE51511190F7.jpg 
Views:	23 
Size:	51.1 KB 
ID:	256773 if this is not to dark for you its brown leather dye and true oil,the shine is watco oil and 3 different polishes

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Way up in the Cascades
    Posts
    3,235
    I agree that you should use a stripper to remove the old finish. Either remove the butt pad or wrap it in some protective tape to prevent the stripper from eating on the rubber. Even so, you may find it necessary to lightly sand the stock with 320, then 400 grit W&D paper to achieve a smooth surface. Sand with the grain. Once you've removed the finish you'll need to made a decision on the color you want the finished project to be. Different pieces of the same type of wood, such as walnut, can be different shades. If you want it to be darker you'll need to stain it to the color you desire. Some walnut is naturally the darker color of the 2nd stock, so no stain would be needed. Yes, it looks to me also like the 2nd stock is just finished with two or three coats of boiled linseed oil. Apply it sparingly because sometimes under some conditions it can take a long time to dry and will remain tacky for days, so use thin coats applied with the fingers, and rub it in a small circular pattern to work it into the pores. Too much oil, or too many coats, and it will begin to develop a shiner surface than you seem to want. If that happens you can remove the excess oil with 4-0 steel wool or 400 grit W&D paper when it has thoroughly dried. A thin coat of carnauba wax added as a final touch will also assist in protecting against moisture.

    There are probably more methods of refinishing gunstocks using various stains and finishes than there are trees in the forest.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    SE Kentucky
    Posts
    591
    The finer you sand the more likely it is to be glossy unless you use a finish that is listed as "satin" or similar. Have had good luck with Watco Danish Oil satin, it penetrates the wood, and can be further protected with brush-on or wipe-on satin poly. If applying linseed oil thin it one part mineral spirits to three parts BLO, it will penetrate better and cure more quickly, about 24 hours depending on heat and humidity.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Rick Hodges's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Taylor, Michigan
    Posts
    1,326
    Follow the instructions with True Oil and cut back the last coat to the wood with 0000 steel wool. The finish is in the wood not on it. Gives a nice satin finish.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master rondog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    1,670
    You'll get 100 different answers/recommendations - all right, and all wrong. Follow your heart - do you want a "fast 'n easy" finish, or an old school hand-rubbed oil finish that looks 100+ years old?

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    DFW
    Posts
    135
    Thanks for the advice. I'm not in a hurry and have seen fast and easy stock finishes, pretty much the factory finish that looks like a coat of plastic over the wood. I like the hand rubbed look but don't want it glossy.
    I guess it's a matter of choosing a product. Is there any benefit that makes one better than the other? How would you decide between BLO, TruOil, Danish Oil or other products? Is it just a personal preference?
    I've used the aerosol Tru Oil before and it turned out great but on that stock, a Browning A-Bolt Medallion 22lr, I was after the high gloss finish and it turned out beautiful.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Way up in the Cascades
    Posts
    3,235
    You know, it's just experience. You have to do a lot of refinish jobs, use a lot of different products, find out what they look like after the job is done, and then proceed according to what you've learned and how you want the stock to look. Once again, the stock in the bottom photo looks very much like the finish found on a G.I. stock such as an M1 Garand, and that's just plain linseed oil. Watco Danish Oil Stain will give you much the same appearance also.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy

    oconeedan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Lake Oconee Ga
    Posts
    157
    I agree strip it.
    BLO, boiled linseed oil, is an oil you rub into the wood. It takes a long time to dry, some say it never dries. It leaves a nice warm hand rubbed oil finish, but is not a "shell" type finish, as it soaks into the wood. It is easy to touch up scratches in the future as they blend in.
    Tung Oil, Birchwood Casey, and other finishes dry much faster, provide a harder finish. It is more of a shell, if that makes sense.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master



    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    1,301
    Stripping is the first step. I don’t like water based strippers, because I think they raise the grain. Consider using different grades of steel wool to remove the stripper after it has one it’s work. Not putty knives or scrapers. There shouldn’t be that much to remove. After that you have a whole choice of finishes to go with. There must be sticky’s on the subject and of course youtube. Most penetrating oils will darken the wood somewhat.

  12. #12
    I always wondered how to get that original light finish.....

    How?

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy 444ttd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    164
    lin speed is the only one i trust.

    https://www.lin-speed.com/
    "The religion of KE: proposed by the ignorant, and parroted by the unknowing" - MikeG

    ​“Einstein's relativity work is a magnificent mathematical garb which fascinates, dazzles and makes people blind to the underlying errors. The theory is like a beggar clothed in purple whom ignorant people take for a king... its exponents are brilliant men but they are metaphysicists rather than scientists.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check