Good Stuff For the M1 Garand OwnerTo Have?

[alamogunr]

Over a few years I have acquired a couple of M1 Garands. So far they have been "safe queens" but I'm looking at shooting them. I have had shooting them in the back of my mind since I bought them so I've investigated all the sources I could find about loads, etc.

Now I am starting to look at accessories to go with loading and shooting. Seems to be a lot of stuff out there and I feel sure that much of it is not required if you are not going to do gunsmithing on the rifles or some of the more involved maintenance.

Recommendations for most needed accessories would be appreciated.

BTW, I'm also looking at an M1A.

[Adam Helmer]

John,

You will enjoy shooting your Garands. I suggest you obtain the WWII G.I. Field Manual for the M1. It probably is information overload for a civilian, but it covers the proper use of 3 or 4 different slings, the Combination Tool and proper maintenance of a fine rifle. I obtained a copy at a gun show 40 years ago and never regretted the $1 purchase. I am sure reprints, or online data is available.

The Garand Handbook is valuable because it covers every known "Stoppage" a Garand may endure and offers a remedy. To wit: On one of my Garands the rear sight "dropped" on every shot at the bench. I read the manual and it took a half turn on the rear sight lock nut to "cure" the droppage problem. Get the GI Manual.

Adam

[country gent]

The handiest tools one of the gi tools had the needed screwdrivers to dissemble some had a chamber brush some a broken shell remover the chamber brush wold normally remove the head separations also. Had the tool to remove replace extractor ejector. A very handy tool for in your kit. A small tin of plasti lube for the bolt op rod bearing point. Another really handy thing for the sights is a smoker ( carbide lamp miners or gunsmoke) or spray, the carbide is better. This light coating really removes glare and makes the sight stand out.
If you want to single load them a sled clip is the ticket.

[RedlegEd]

Hi John,
One of the best little Garand accessories I own is the "Garand Buddy." It's an inexpensive little doodad that fits into the Garand's receiver keeping it open during cleaning and prevents gunk and solvents from dripping into the clip well.
Ed

[Hick]

A spare gas plug or one of those special devices that allows you to partially open the gas plug. I bought a spare gas plug and drilled out the valve-- Some people don't like hot 30-06 brass flying in their direction at a range. With the drilled out gas plug the action does not cycle, you shoot it as a 'pull bolt' rifle. This also comes in handy if you decide to shoot hot 30-06 loads. Modern 30-06 loads can bend your op rod, but that won't happen if you don't let the action cycle.

[kayala]

I'm not Garand specialist by any stretch of imagination but I've got me adjustable gas plug so I don't have to travel to neighboring county to pick up my brass.

[Moleman-]

Chamber brush, replace the recoil spring, and for spares an extractor and spring. Only parts I remember off hand go bad on the one's I've owned over the years have been an original recoil spring that broke and a very worn clip latch that eventually would no longer hold the enbloc clip in the gun through cycling the action.

[Gtek]

That little plastic tray is nice, but----- Your cleaning from the muzzle unless you are a snake fan, and when one pushes that wet patch in muzzle you are pushing solvent into gas cylinder. Sights down on stand and stuff comes out of open action just fine. A lot of times I would pull barrel group, strip action and just pull gas plug. Cleaning everything including both bores, wipe OP Rod tip and new anti seize on gas plug threads. And I would also suggest a good muzzle guide and only use one section of a cleaning rod set for M-10, stay away from the section rods unless emergency.

[Jack Stanley]

A review of good things mentioned , a manual , combination tool , a few spare parts and cleaning with the sights down . Add to that a muzzle guide and a Dewey coated cleaning rod and a figure eight wrench for the front and the wrench for the gas plug .

That's some basic stuff that allows a detail cleaning at the end of the shooting season and you can go from there if you see the need .

Just a tip , if you've ever seen pitting on the forward part of the operating rod a way to prevent it on yours is to get a jar of cosmoline . When you do a detail clean and have the rod out and cleaned , rub a small amount of cosmoline on the rod all the way back to the bends . Yes , when fired the gas from the rifle will vent across it but it doesn't seem to remove it in my experience . When competing , my rifle came out of the bedding only once a year for detailing , it never failed and never rusted .

Jack

[country gent]

even a standard M1 should only be removed from the stock a little as possible. The way the action rotates out damages bedding wood or fiberglass. When cleaning the rifle se a cradle and clean it upside down so solvents and fouling run out not into. On the M1A M14 the rolling out could be stopped by removing the gas system, so the lip was off the stock. This allowed the action to lift straight up and out.m Another tip is do not handle the rifle by the hand guards.

[ShooterAZ]

A good 1907 pattern sling is nice to have. Get a spare firing pin, and extra extractor. Lay in a supply of enblock clips.

[Baltimoreed]

Attachment 256717Attachment 256718Attachment 256719
Don’t know if you plan on competition but a good spotting scope is a must. I also picked up a cheap shooting mat from midwayusa. Built this scope stand but haven’t used it in a match. The top is a couple pcs of oak that clamp around the pole and the scope bolts to with a lock nut to allow me to slide it up or down. I had a knee replaced last year so I’ll try a couple more garand shoots this year. I really want to use my Krag rifle though. Good luck on shooting your Garand. They are cool. Here’s mine that I restocked into a Boyds winter laminate after I retired.

[alamogunr]

A review of good things mentioned , a manual , combination tool , a few spare parts and cleaning with the sights down . Add to that a muzzle guide and a Dewey coated cleaning rod and a figure eight wrench for the front and the wrench for the gas plug .

That's some basic stuff that allows a detail cleaning at the end of the shooting season and you can go from there if you see the need .

Just a tip , if you've ever seen pitting on the forward part of the operating rod a way to prevent it on yours is to get a jar of cosmoline . When you do a detail clean and have the rod out and cleaned , rub a small amount of cosmoline on the rod all the way back to the bends . Yes , when fired the gas from the rifle will vent across it but it doesn't seem to remove it in my experience . When competing , my rifle came out of the bedding only once a year for detailing , it never failed and never rusted .

Jack

Thanks to you and the others who have posted. Re, the advice about cosmoline. Since it is a rust preventive and I have a large supply of original Alox 606-55, which is also a rust preventive, do you think it would work also?

[WinchesterM1]

The only thing I need for my Garand is LOTS and LOTS of ammo

NOE 311299 sized and PCed to .310 al GC
34grn of IMR4064

[El Bibliotecario]

During my military service the only tools I ever used or needed for my issue M1 were a cleaning rod and a bore brush. The GI M13 rod breaks down into jointed sections to fit into the butt trap and can be used as a wrench to unscrew the gas cylinder plug.

Since those days I have learned metal cleaning rods cause wear to the muzzle crown, so if you use a metal rod I would suggest a brass rod guide. My issue weapon had a canvas carrying strap, but I have also since learned the M1907 sling recommended by a previous poster is a definite aide in shooting from a supported position.

[Adam Helmer]

John,

Go buy a tin of RIG and be done with it.

Adam

[alamogunr]

John,

Go buy a tin of RIG and be done with it.

Adam

I've got the RIG. All I use for long term storage. Long term being 3-4 months.

[Jack Stanley]

alamogunr , the idea is the stickiest and hardest to remove will protect the rod from rust . Not that we are using corrosive ammo but the powder fouling can be hydroscopic and after a while invite the beginning of rust . So yeah , I would try your 606 Alox and see how it holds up .

Jack

[alamogunr]

Thanks! Using what I have beats adding one more thing to my overcrowded(junked up?) shop. Even a small can of anything can get lost.

[djryan13]

First thing I would do is get over to CMP forum and buy up some once fired HXP. Good brass for those beasts.