Good Stuff For the M1 Garand OwnerTo Have?

[oscarflytyer]

GI Manual and a GOOD 1 1/4" 1907 sling! But then, I was in the Army AND was a target shooter! lol

[Alstep]

If you're going to shoot jacketed bullets in your M1, use powders in the mid range burning rate like Varget, 4895, 4064, Rel-15. Slower powders can increase port pressure because the slower burn rate takes longer to reach higher pressure and max pressure occurs at the port, whereas the faster powders reach max pressure way before the port. So by the time the bullet reaches the port, the faster powder has expended most of it's energy. High port pressure with slower powders can slam the system & bend op rods.

168 & 175 gr bullets will really perform in your M1. If you can get ahold of some GI M72, 173 gr match ammo, that stuff really shines, especially at long range. Don't use bullets over 175 gr.

As others have said, a one piece cleaning rod and a muzzle guide are absolutely essential items, as is a good quality grease on the op rod bolt cam. I've seen M1 barrels with NO rifling for several inches down the muzzle due to the GI pieced cleaning rod wear. A bullet would disappear when dropped down the bore! Any of the single shot adapters or 2 shot clips are a waste of your time & money. A gunsmoke carbide lamp will really blacken your sights like no other method. It really makes that sight contrast stand out.

Enjoy your M1. There's no other rifle quite like it!

[georgerkahn]

I'll mirror what Alstep and others have posted, perhaps adding/reinforcing this one VERY important fact: To wit, you really can do damage to yourself, and most notably (op rod) your M1s, if you do not either use factory, or reload, loads SPECIFICALLY for this gas gun!!! If you should wish to load and shoot ammo not specific for the Garand, there are several options to change your gas plugs for this; ME? I like to shoot my M1 as an M1 .
One accessory I always recommend -- we have them in all our club Garands -- is an Orion7 Spring; Michael & Tony Pucci at Orion7 Enterprises ( https://www.m1garand.com/m1-garand/m...s-accessories/ ) purvey these, as well as other great parts and gear. Another source is Clint McKee's Fulton Armory ( https://www.fulton-armory.com/M1-Garand.aspx ) which, also, I recommend. And, a third good source is https://www.ammogarand.com/m1-garand-part.html .
I add a "buyer beware" vis many Garand parts and accessories; the main reason I buy from above three listed vendors is that the parts and accessories they purvey are GENUINE! Sadly, many merchants offer items advertised as the real McCoy -- which turn out to be Chinese-made junk. (Been there; done that -- hence these cautionary words )
BEST wishes!
geo

[alamogunr]

I really do appreciate the responses here. To expand a little on what I already have on hand: I've got 2 books that I got from Scott Duff Books, The M1 Garand Owners Guide by Scott Duff and The M1 Garand Complete Assembly Guide by Kuleck and McKee. The latter book sort of has me intimidated right now.

I've also got an 8# jug of H4895 that I bought shortly after I got the first Garand. I've got a whole slew of bookmarks to threads on loads for the Garand. I've mostly restricted these to threads here. You learn a lot about who to trust if you stay here long enough. I may get a 1# jug of IMR4064 to compare. Has anyone used DP85? When I bought it the label said it was close to Varget. I've only used it for mid level bolt action loads. Not sure if I want to experiment on a Garand.

Also somewhat conflicted about cast boolits. Several say that 311299(200gr) is a good cast boolit. Alstep recommends a max of 275 gr. I'll look around for further discussion about this.

One poster recommended staying away from 2 round enblocs. What is the problem? No need to spend $$ getting something not needed.

I hope that this post doesn't indicate that I'm ready for this thread to end. I've learned a lot and hope to learn more.

[georgerkahn]

John -- alamogunr -- you clearly are in the right frame re these firearms! One thought I maintain is that not only are they not being made anymore, but the most recent ones are more than a half-century old! Possibly not a good thing to write on a cast bullet sight, but to be quite frank I load and shoot quite a number of calibres ALL exclusively using (mostly my) cast bullets. But (sorry ) for the Garand, I exclusively load and shoot Sierra jacketed bullets (MY gallery load is Sierra #2190 150gr. over 46.6grns IMR 4895; CCI #34 Primer) which seem to group in both my, and club Garands, adequately for competition -- e.g., they shoot better than I do . Hence, as much as I'd like to recommend a cast bullet load -- I know lots of casters do quite well with cast bullets -- but, I'm not one of these. Some fellows, too, use pistol powders as propellants, and I cannot speak badly re this practice with the M1 -- but, one fellow I know well blew up TWO 1903A3 Smith Corona's doing this. Perhaps that I'm on the "old" side (in years) -- but for me, again, I best duplicate military ball rounds in mine. If you check reputable printed loading manuals, I am sure you will find advised cast bullets and loading. If I recall, one of the popular manuals -- Hornady? -- actually has a separate chapter exclusive to M1 Garand loading.
BEST!
geo

[ShooterAZ]

My favorite jacketed load in the Garand is 46.5 IMR4064 with either a Hornady, or Sierra 168 gr HPBT Match bullet. My favorite cast boolit load is the Lyman 311299 with 34.5 gr of H4895. Both loads use a CCI 34 primer. I have laid in a lifetime supply of LC-68 Match brass, so that's what I have been using.

[Alstep]

I said "don't use bullets over 175 gr". I meant jacketed bullets. Over that will slam the works and beat up your gun. Cast boolets are loaded way down, so no worry.
I'll have to admit tho, that I've never shot cast in my M1.

There's no problem with 2 round enblock clips, they're just not needed. For your highpower rapid fire stage, you load 2 & 8. For the 2, you just drop in an empty clip into your gun, load your 2 rounds into it, push down with your thumb & let the bolt go forward. Keep your hand along side the action as a guide, and the right side of your hand on the op rod handle, and when you push down on the clip & cartridges, the bolt will go forward and the bolt will push your thumb up & out of the way. With your hand on the op rod handle you can control the bolt. Don't let your thumb follow ahead of the bolt, or you'll get that famous "M1 thumb". It smarts and bleeds too. Takes a little practice, but you'll pick it up fast. Hope this explanation makes sense to you.

Your 8# jug of 4895 powder is perfect. Hornady publishes a nice little pamphlet about loads specifically for the service rifle. Suggest you contact them and get one. They probably have it on line too.

I hope you'll get involved with high power shooting. I see you're in Tennessee, I know there's a range near Oak Ridge, and if you contact the CMP or your state association, they'll give you some guidance or point of contact. The CMP runs the National Matches at Camp Perry, OH, and they have a Small Arms Firing School for new & novice shooters. They also have matches at various ranges around the country, along with their SAFS. There's one coming up at Camp Butner, NC in late April or early May. There's all kinds of matches for vintage military rifles and your M1. And they'll have M1's & ammo for sale there too. You'll love it.

As georgerkahn said, beware of aftermarket parts. Also a lot of worn out, out of spec parts out there too. And prices are outrageous. An op rod today costs more than the complete M1 I bought years ago!

Another great source of info is the Garand Collectors Association. They publish an outstanding quarterly magazine. They are into the historical & collecting aspect of the M1, rather than shooting it, but very worthwhile all the same. In the classified section are listed parts from reliable people.

Here's a great source of info on highpower shooting from some of the best shooters in the country:
http://thecmp.org/training-tech/shoo...ce-rifle-team/

[alamogunr]

Thanks for the additional suggestions. I just went back and looked at my Post #24. Glaring typo! Typed 275 gr instead of 175. I will contact Hornady and see if they are the one with the Garand section.

Alstep, re, your suggestion about competition, Oak Ridge is nearly 300 miles from where I live in West Tennessee. Also at my age, 77, I'm not up to trying to attain the skill needed to compete or travel that far to embarrass myself. Just about everything I do, gunwise, is for my own enjoyment. I even schedule my range visits when I know most people are working.

[Alstep]

I hear ya alamogunr, I'm 78 and haven't competed in over 20 years. But I still go out to the Nationals and coach for the CMP. It's like old home week. We have a local club here for kids that I help out & coach, our youth is our future.
Enjoy your old warhorse! I just loved shooting my M1 in competition, earned my Distinguished & Presidents with it. And best of all, I met some wonderful shooters from all over the country, many I still keep in contact with.

[alamogunr]

About the only "youth" I try to influence are my grandsons. We have two sons who will inherit my guns but the grandsons are from the older son. So, it will take some trading if the both the grandsons end up with a Garand. Right now the grandsons are in post grad and undergrad college but both are interested in guns just no money.

[MrHarmless]

Attachment 256717Attachment 256718Attachment 256719
Don’t know if you plan on competition but a good spotting scope is a must. I also picked up a cheap shooting mat from midwayusa. Built this scope stand but haven’t used it in a match. The top is a couple pcs of oak that clamo around the pole and the scope bolts to with a lock nut to allow me to slide it up or down. I had a knee replaced last year so I’ll try a couple more garand shoots this year. I really want to use my Krag rifle though. Good luck on shooting your Garand. They are cool. Here’s mine that I restocked into a Boyds winter laminate after I retired.

Oh man, that Boyds stock actually looks super cool!

[Barman54]

As Mentioned before a one Piece cleaning Rod, with a Bore guide, the MTM Orange Solvent Trap.
Also, M3a1 Cleaning Tool, have to Keep the Chamber clean. A Green Chamber Brush, or Old Tooth Brush to clean the Bolt Face and Chamber, to get the Brass Shavings out.

Q-Tips to remove the old grease before you apply new grease.

Barman54
Out

[derek45]

lots of 4895

[roverboy]

I need to get a GI tool for the buttstock on mine. Been meaning to ever since I got my Garand.

[georgerkahn]

I need to get a GI tool for the buttstock on mine. Been meaning to ever since I got my Garand.

There are several "good" places who purvey these -- you may check (at least one) the sites/sources I cited in my post (#25) here above. I repeat my "friendly caution" if you want the "real McCoy". A good friend purchased a few of these at a major (Syracuse, NY) gun show -- which turned out to be recently manufactured junk, for lack of a better term. Good luck and best wishes in your quest!
geo

[GBertolet]

Be sure to use the CCI #34 primers, or equivilent hard primers, on reloads. M1's do not have a firing pin spring. Occasionally during the firing cycle, when the bolt goes into battery, a light dimple is put on the primer of the yet to be fired round, by the inertia of the firing pin. An overly sensitive primer, can result in a slamfire condition, when the gun fires partially in battery, damaging the rifle, and possibly the shooter or bystanders.

This is what happens when an out of battery firing firing looks like. The exact cause was not determined.

https//www.outdoorhub.com/news/2014/11/19/video-m1-garand-explodes-shooters-hands/

[samari46]

Since our beloved Garands con only be cleaned from the muzzle when I got mine I went to a local machine shop supply house. I asked if I could bring it in and the owner who loves Garands said yes. Didn't have a thread gage at the time to detirmine the threads where the gas cylinder lock screwed on the barrel. Walked out of the shop with three taps and a brand new thread gage. Went home and turned a cylinder of brass, threaded it and put in a
polite bushing Which I reamed to slightly over 1/4" the diameter of most 30 cal cleaning rods. Slide the new adaptor over the cleaning rod install your patches or bronze brush and screw the adaptor onto the threads. and clean away. Patches and brushes can be taken off when in the mag area and fresh ones added. About it has to be removed is when your finished cleaning. Pull out the cleaning rod sans brushes and patches, unscrew the adaptor and reinstall the cylinder lock.And as always clean your Garand with the gas cylinder on top to prevent solvents and oils from getting the wood oil soaked. Frank

[GBertolet]

There are false muzzles that slip over the end of the barrel for cleaning purposes. The one I have is nylon and cost about $10. This prevents cleaning rod contact with the barrel crown. Cheap insurance.