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Thread: blueing removal mistake

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    blueing removal mistake

    while inletting the barrel channel, i removed too much wood from one side. about 4 in. long. so, i cut a thin tapered sliver of walnut to fill it in. i used titebond III wood glue. with the bbl. action in the stock i slid the filler along side of the bbl. with the glue on it. after removing everything when dry. some glue was squezed out under the sliver and against the bbl. that area had no blueing on it. fortunately its below the stock wood.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    stubshaft's Avatar
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    A little cold blue and oil and no one will know...
    Without the dark night, you would never see the bright stars...

    You can live forever if you give up all of the things that make it worthwhile.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master pietro's Avatar
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    .

    FWIW, I long ago learned not to leave a blued gun anywhere near (and definitely not touching) a wet/drying adhesive when I once laid a new 8-3/8" S&W Model 29 into the recess of a presentation case that I was re-lining.

    The fumes were toxic, leaving the side of the gun that was lying atop the fabric with NO bluing. (I was devastated)


    .
    Experience is a wonderful thing - It lets you recognize a mistake, when you make it again.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Just to be on the safe side , I always coat my blued metal with Paste Wax whenever it is around Any Kind if Glue or Chemical.
    I am working on a stock repair on a couple TC's.
    One barrel is already blued , and one is in the white.
    So far the paste wax has not only prevented the metal from getting Glued in , but has prevented the metal or Bluing from any discoloration.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Mytmousemalibu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pietro View Post
    .

    FWIW, I long ago learned not to leave a blued gun anywhere near (and definitely not touching) a wet/drying adhesive when I once laid a new 8-3/8" S&W Model 29 into the recess of a presentation case that I was re-lining.

    The fumes were toxic, leaving the side of the gun that was lying atop the fabric with NO bluing. (I was devastated)


    .
    Thank you for the PSA! That sounds terrible! Obviously if you were making a presentation case for it, it was probably a very nice gun. Not going to lie, I would have been sobbing! As a general rule I keep blued guns away from touching anything except an oiled rag or its storage vessel. I can see how easy it would be to accidentally had this happen with seemingly innocuous things.
    ~ Chris


    Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all but most importantly, God, Family, The United States Constitution and Freedom...

    God Bless our Troops, Veterans and First Responders!

    Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas
    Accuracy, Power & Speed

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by stubshaft View Post
    A little cold blue and oil and no one will know...
    Quote Originally Posted by LAGS View Post
    Just to be on the safe side , I always coat my blued metal with Paste Wax whenever it is around Any Kind if Glue or Chemical.
    I am working on a stock repair on a couple TC's.
    One barrel is already blued , and one is in the white.
    So far the paste wax has not only prevented the metal from getting Glued in , but has prevented the metal or Bluing from any discoloration.
    What they said!

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    i don't have any issues with the repair. i did use paste wax as a release agent. just passing on my "mistake"

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check