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Thread: Forming and loading .410 brass shot shells.

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    Forming and loading .410 brass shot shells.

    So, I have been experimenting with loading .410 shells with 9.3x74R brass and have had good results. The one thing that I have noticed is that the loads seem very weak compared to commercial Winchester 3" hunting loads. The recoil is considerably less using my loads.

    I have been using 16 grains of 2400 and around 300 grains of shot, I have tried #5 and #8. These are fired from an old Marlin 60G bolt action single shot. The loading process follows:
    1) prime with large pistol primer
    2) drop powder
    3) seat cardboard wad, 3/8" or so thick
    4) set wad with punch
    5) add shot and shake to settle
    6) over shot wad from primer box
    7) seat with a punch
    8) seal with Elmers glue

    I have not shot over a chronograph yet, not a fan of shotguns near the device. But, my daughter and I have fired several and compared them to commercial shells, much less recoil and noise. I am not a regular shot shell loader, but do shoot the .410 some at various varmints that make it into the yard and are pests.

    The load data came from my old Lyman loading manual, is it to conservative for modern shot guns?

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy Rapidrob's Avatar
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    I make .410 "brass" shotgun shells from .30-40 Krag and .303 Britt brass. The difference you are seeing from factory to your loads is the lack of a tight crimp. I use a .41 Magnum crimp die to do a roll crimp on the case mouth. You should be able to use the .44 Magnum crimp dies as well. Glue is not the way to go.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    Silly question... but what is a tight crimp going to do with a thin cardboard wad? I do have 41 mag dies and gave that some thought. The glue is there for water resistance and to hold the shell together.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy Rapidrob's Avatar
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    The time that it takes for the pressure to build up and overcome the roll crimp as well as the primer blowing the powder and shot column forward is increased allowing the proper pressure to build up.
    Another factor to consider is the brass case is much thinner than the plastic cases and the case volume is increased,thus allowing for a lower chamber pressure overall. I increased my powder load to get the proper results.
    Not a silly question.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I tried using .303 British for replacing 2½" plastic .410 shells several years ago, mainly due to the cost of factory loads.

    I do not remember my load, but it started with a book load of 2400. Plastic .410 wads worked in my brass with a coke cardboard over shot wad, but I never got rid of the waspwaisted appearance.

    Mine also seemed low powered, although they patterned fine from my Grandpa's old Iver Johnson Champion. Unfortunately it would not extract the brass cases, so I ended my experiment rather early.

    You may have to rig a shield for your chronograph after all,

    Good Luck,

    Robert

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    I bought all brass shot shells (empty) from midway. I think they still supply them.
    Brass shot shells have a thin wall, compared to a paper or plastic case. Wads fit loose and allow th gas to blow by resulting in low powered or weak performance.
    there are companies that can supply corect over the powder size wads, or you can make your own. I use a leather punch, from Harbor freight. they sell a set for about $7 or so punch them out from a cardboard cereal box or somthing similar, you can also use a 41 Gas check upside down. 16 grains of 2400 seems stiff. I used a product call egg glass to seal the end of the case it's like a lite glue.
    I heavent loaded 410 brass for some years so some things may have changed, but that's how We loaded 410 and 12 ga brass but using different powder etc for the 12 ga.
    BD

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    I have been cutting proper sized wads, so should be not gas leak by. I may try the gas check and crimp next.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I use 444M cases with a 44cal gc upside down over powder then a cardboard wad and 3/4oz of shot with a thin card wad glued in with silicone. They work well and have plenty of pop. I think H110 is a poor choice for powder. It's been a while but I think I used 2400.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy Cheeto303's Avatar
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    You will find a lot of good info on this thread : http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ee-Enfield-410
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check