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Thread: Stevens 94B "restoration"

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Stevens 94B "restoration"

    Got this pre 1968 Stevens for $40. It was missing a firing pin, which was no problem to track down. The metal was in good condition but very worn. I wanted a pretty display piece for my reloading room so here it is. This isn't the finished product however. I still need new wood (stock is cracked) and the pins need pressed in the rest of the way (scratch too easily for a hammer and punch) but it sure is pretty. For the pins, trigger, hammer, and action lever, I polished as much as possible and heat blued (traditional high end watch finish). The color shifts from purple to bright blue. Very striking in person. The reciever and trigger gaurd was plated in brass.

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  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy cold1's Avatar
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    That looks very nice. The heat bluing turned out great.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thank you!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    BigAlofPa.'s Avatar
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    I agree it looks great.
    One round at a time.
    Member of the NRA,GOA and FAOC. Gun clubs Zerby rod and gun club. Keystone Fish and Game Association.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    sparky45's Avatar
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    Is that a 12ga? I have the Stevens in a 410.

  6. #6
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    CastingFool's Avatar
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    Very well done! Looks great!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
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    Nice job, I've always liked Stevens 94/ Savage 220 series better than H&R and IJs. I have a original 94 in 12g that has case hardened reciever. Gun is near mint. Have another 94b that I need wood for. Not easy to find. Small differences in forend latch system in the 94 series are not all interchangeable.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by sparky45 View Post
    Is that a 12ga? I have the Stevens in a 410.
    Yep, old 12 gauge. It actually predates serial numbers. I was freaking out because I couldn't find one. Turns out they didn't get serial numbers until after 1968

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I like it, didn’t think I would like the brass, but it works. I have one in 28ga that someone cold blued. I am going to rust blue it, but might think on brass plating the frame as the prior owner destroyed the case coloring. Would you mind posting some detail on the plating process, home/small shop applicable?
    “You don’t practice until you get it right. You practice until you can’t get it wrong.” Jason Elam, All-Pro kicker, Denver Broncos

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by rking22 View Post
    I like it, didn’t think I would like the brass, but it works. I have one in 28ga that someone cold blued. I am going to rust blue it, but might think on brass plating the frame as the prior owner destroyed the case coloring. Would you mind posting some detail on the plating process, home/small shop applicable?
    Thanks.

    It's quite simple really. First you need to get it extremely well polished. Any little scratch will show through as the coating is very thin. After it's polished clean it thoroughly and don't touch it with your bare hands. I use soap and hot water, then acetone, then a tac cloth as a once over right before I plate.

    You will need this

    https://www.amplifiedparts.com/produ...-metal-coating

    And a DC power supply that you can control the voltage on. You need about 6 volts to get a good plate. The chemicals are very nasty (contains cyanide) so be very careful around it and don't get it in your mouth, eyes, nose, ect. Best to keep it off your skin too.

    You will put a negative clip on the part, and the positive clip on your plating brush. You plate towards your negative. Once it's completely plated rinse off with water thoroughly and cover in wd40 to prevent rust. Go over the piece and make sure if it's consistent. If you missed a spot you'll have to start fhe cleaning process over again and repeat the plating.

    Once it's done it scratches very easy, so care when putting the frame together is needed.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks for all the compliments gents. Will update pictures when I get some good walnut on it.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master


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    I have a 94 Series P that my dad bought me when I was very little, maybe 1980ish.

    The hammer broke and I ordered a replacement 94 hammer from Numerich maybe a month ago, after it sat for 30 years. Turns out, the series P guns used a 9478 hammer, so I had to order another one. Installed it today. Fired the gun for the first time in 30 years, I guess, or more.

    Mine is a youth model. Stock is really short, so felt recoil is terrible. I could see my kids shooting it, or maybe grabbing a full-length stock for it.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    Boyds has stocks for them believe it or not. I'm going to get their xx walnut unfinished so I can put my own oil rub finish on it.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master BCRider's Avatar
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    That's a very nice looker and will be superb with the new stock and rubbed oil finish. Sort of a shame not to let it bark now and then though. Some careful and considerate use at the trap range would not put it under too much risk. Even if it's only a couple of times a year for giggles?
    Witty saying to be plagarized shortly.....

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
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    Oh I definitely plan on shooting it. I don't have any safe queens lol just don't plan on shooting it much. Took it to work to show my shop foreman (I bought it off of him) he really really liked it and was very impressed. He was somewhat speechless. Got a little emotional as he's currently on hospice and doesn't have long (still comes to work!). He's selling all of his guns. Very sad.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check