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Thread: Brass Prep and progressive presses

  1. #61
    Boolit Bub
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    I'm similar to you in regards to being a bit OCD about my brass and prep. I likely do things differently than a lot of guys, but here's my method...

    All of my brass gets decapped with a universal die on the Rockchucker. I wet tumble with chips and a small squirt of Dawn. After drying, I dry tumble in walnut or cob with a squirt of car polish/wax. Brass is clean and looks good by the end of the process.

    The rounds I use more for plinking and am less concerned about sub-MOA accuracy at 100+ I most typically load on my Loadmaster. I prime off-press in a Lee auto bench primer and have the primer system removed on the Loadmaster. I tend to check the first 5-10 rounds each on powder, then every 10th or so when I'm satisfied I'm getting consistent throws. I hand-set the projectiles so I can peak into the case to make sure powder looks good. If I have any concern whatsoever, I'll dump it into the scale and make sure.

    For my more accurate rounds, I still load on the Rockchucker. I have a tray and measure out each load and work in a process where I size them all, trim, prime (again, on the bench primer), drop powder and seat the bullet (I seat directly after the drop on each round so as not to double-drop or miss one), then crimp them all (if I crimp that particular caliber).

    It fits my being particular about certain things and has worked well for me so far.

  2. #62
    Boolit Master


    Ickisrulz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dverna View Post
    One reason I only buy Dillon dies for loading pistol ammunition.

    Ickisrulz, you might want to try BLL. It will not be as messy as pan lubing and it is faster. PC'ing is another way to address the problem if you have a place to cook the bullets.
    I've used BLL and have the same issues, just longer into the process. I like Carnuba Red and realize if I seat and crimp in different stages it helps to go longer before I have to clean also. I have thought about PC, but not sure I want to tackle that.

    I was just curious how the progressive guys got around the waxed up dies (and did 1,000 rounds at a time). I know I'm not the only one with the issue as I see other posts from time to time asking how to clean them.
    Last edited by Ickisrulz; 02-14-2020 at 08:48 PM.

  3. #63
    Boolit Master

    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    [QUOTE=I was just curious how the progressive guys got around the waxed up dies (and did 1,000 rounds at a time). I know I'm not the only one with the issue as I see other posts from time to time asking how to clean them.[/QUOTE]

    It's not that big a deal.
    Keep a eye on the OAL by measuring on here & there, or when you refill the primers.
    If they're getting shorter, dig around up in the seater die with a 'Q' tip.
    It wasn't playing the blame game, finding fault, and complaining about every little thing that made America great.
    It was God, guns, and guts.

  4. #64
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    The Dillon dies have clips , so you can remove the seater, clean and reinstall without changing any adjustment and dry quickly.

  5. #65
    Boolit Master
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    Yup the Dillon seating die is slick the way it comes apart , great design.

  6. #66
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Ickisrulz View Post
    I've used BLL and have the same issues, just longer into the process. I like Carnuba Red and realize if I seat and crimp in different stages it helps to go longer before I have to clean also. I have thought about PC, but not sure I want to tackle that.

    I was just curious how the progressive guys got around the waxed up dies (and did 1,000 rounds at a time). I know I'm not the only one with the issue as I see other posts from time to time asking how to clean them.
    I have run 10's of thousands of commercial cast bullets with hard lube and not had many issues. But even with hard lubes, I have to clean the seating die as build up happens eventually. I have not tracked it, but I go over 5000 rounds before cleaning out the seating die. I know a lot people do not like the hard lubes so it not a universal answer.

    You may want to consider selling your current dies and getting the Dillon set. Not a lot of money difference for the ease of operation they provide.
    Don Verna

    NRA Endowment Member

  7. #67
    Boolit Master
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    I use Lee RCBS and Redding and Lyman dies and it is not that difficult to pull the the seating stem to clean it .
    Dillons design is nice but it's not that big a deal with any that I have at least for the volumes of the bullets I load.
    If you have to clean your die very often your leaving to much lube on you bullet nose.

  8. #68
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by dverna View Post
    I have run 10's of thousands of commercial cast bullets with hard lube and not had many issues. But even with hard lubes, I have to clean the seating die as build up happens eventually. I have not tracked it, but I go over 5000 rounds before cleaning out the seating die. I know a lot people do not like the hard lubes so it not a universal answer.

    You may want to consider selling your current dies and getting the Dillon set. Not a lot of money difference for the ease of operation they provide.
    I will keep all of this in mind. Thank you for the input.

  9. #69
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by onelight View Post
    If you have to clean your die very often your leaving to much lube on you bullet nose.
    There's no doubt about that!

  10. #70
    Boolit Master
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    I use a Star lube sizer which leaves the boolit lube only in the groove where it belongs. Since getting the Star I now longer have to clean out the seating die.

  11. #71
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by rbuck351 View Post
    I use a Star lube sizer which leaves the boolit lube only in the groove where it belongs. Since getting the Star I now longer have to clean out the seating die.
    Does the Star unit do better than the RCBS/Lyman lube sizers in this respect?

  12. #72
    Boolit Master
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    Yep. I also have an rcbs and a Lyman 45 and had a lyman 450. The, star when properly adjusted, puts lube only in the lube groove and it's a pass through sizer. It's not the best for installing gas checks but controls lube very well.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check