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Thread: These lube stick molding blocks are perfect!

  1. #1
    I'm A Honcho!

    DukeInFlorida's Avatar
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    These lube stick molding blocks are perfect!

    I do a lot of casting and traditional lubing. My really high volumes are 38 specials (Lyman 160 grain RFN) and 44 Mags (Lyman 210 grain SWC). As such, I go through a LOT of lube. And, have a group of gun buddies who also cast and lube. Between us, we likely cast tens of thousands of bullets per year. So, in addition to sharing the rendering of range lead for our casting needs, we also share in the making of sticks of lube.
    We make sticks for both Magma's Star Lubricizor, and Lyman's 450/4500 Lubricizor. The difference between the two is that the Star doesn't need a hole down the middle of the stick, and those sticks can be a little longer than the Lyman version.
    I purchased two sets of the lube stick mold blocks from MOA/ CNC Products, and cut pieces of Schedule 40 1" (OD) pipe to use as the molds for the sticks. 3/8" wooden dowels for the Lyman set allows me to quickly cast lube sticks. I bought six blocks for the Lyman set (8 cavities each = 48 sticks at a time!) and six blocks for the Star (also 8 cavities each = 48 sticks at a time). I used to struggle with the time it took to cool down sufficiently to push the sticks out of the molds. Now, there are enough cavities that the cooling time is no longer an issue. Yes, we make that much lube! I sprayed the longer Star lube PVC pieces yellow, and the mold blocks for those also yellow, to identify those as a set. I left the Lyman versions in their natural color.
    The 1" schedule 40 PVC pipe fits perfectly into the large diameter hole in the blocks, and the 3/8" holes for the dowels fit the dowels perfectly also. MOA's idea for the washers makes perfect sense. In use, drop the 7/8" standard washer into the pockets in the mold blocks, and then place the dowels and PVC pipe down on top of that in the pockets. That will allow you, once the lube has cooled, to just lift out the PVC pipe, and push the lube sticks out. No need to clean the bottom of the mold block pockets. The washers are reusable.
    One suggestion for those thinking that Schedule 20 pipe would yield more lube per stick. The problem is that the resultant sticks would be too fat to fit in either the Star or Lyman lubricizers. The Schedule 40 PVC pipe (1" size) is the correct way to go.
    So, thank you MOA (Barry) and CNC Products, for making and offering these lube mold blocks. They are perfect for making lube sticks of either type. Well worth the lifetime investment.


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  2. #2
    I'm A Honcho!

    DukeInFlorida's Avatar
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    BTW, we use an old recipe that Gunarea (Roy Kramer, the originator of the LawnSteel Game) came up with. He calls it, "Best Lube". We make many batches of that recipe when we make it. I also modify some of that recipe for my own purposes by adding some of the Ben's Red ingredients, especially carnauba wax, to make my own Carnauba Red ( a recipe made by White Label Lubes, a very fine company!) rifle lube. It works great on all my rifle castings.

    If anyone wants a copy of the recipe for Best Lube, send me a PM or email (click on the email link on my profile page. )
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/memb...-DukeInFlorida


    NRA Life Member
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    NRA RANGE SAFETY OFFICER


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check