I had a 1969 Ford F100 and it had no such problems. Any problem could be diagnosed in about five minutes. You didn't have to remove the dash to work on heater, change one of the dash lights or turn signal beeper. I drove that truck for 39 years with very little trouble. I drove it across the country three times and took it to the desert countless times.. Men would knock on my door and ask if I would sell it. I did sell the truck when we moved into a senior community but I wish I had it back.
A GUN THAT'S COCKED AND UNLOADED AIN'T GOOD FOR NUTHIN'........... ROOSTER COGBURN
before you tear into this , you might want to do a couple of cks , heater cores have no moving parts, they do however have a LOT of small tube to conduct coolant across their surface to produce heat. First ck would be feel the hoses in and out of the heater they should be nearly untouchable with heat. If one is HOT and the others not well its blocked with rust (from block) or air locked (air trapped in core, a lot of cores have the pipes at lowest point with core and tanks higher) you could bleed air by removing return hose and raising the end, with a small amout of pressure applied to cooling system. There may also be a flow valve inline to control coolant flow make sure it is opening and closing ( some have this valve some don't its kinda like a ball valve in house plumbing and the flapper becomes loose and don't open when the cam lever moves). You may have another issue that will cause heater to air lock and not produce heat and that would be a minor head gasket leak pressurzing the system. Need more info on the problem its kinda vague what your experiencing problem wise.
Sorry for long post. Also if both hoses are hot to touch you have circulation, if no heat still, then you have a ventilation problem and one of the hvac doors is not functioning correctly probably cold air return, most common.
you have not took out the 4 nuts on the out side of the fire well
I finally got the dash removed and got to the heater core. the blend door was working and not broken. I bought a new heater core. The old one is much heavier and in fact I did get some crud out of it when I draine the fluid out of it, so the diagnosis is the heater core was plugged. I am replacing the blend door to keep that from being the next problem. Thanks all. Regarding the possible airlock, everything that has been mentioned I had already tried in the past to no avail. Both heater hoses were hot, although the return was not nearly as hot as the incoming line. There was a definite flow blockage int he heater core. Ford was well known back in the 60's to have very tiny flow lines in the heater cores (I used to be a mechanic until early 70's) which would plug up often requiring them to be rodded. I think Ford may still have tiny water passages.
all that said, thanks to everyone for their advice.
rdwarrior
Glad you got it done. What was the stumbling block that held you up?
First thing holding me up was finishing getting the 3 wire looms free from the firewall on the drivers side. The way the book read I just had to remove the screws holding each one. Turns out I had to pull the plastic piece around all of them and them press them back inside the cabin. The other thing was I missed one bolt in the center of the dash under the power outlet that I had not seen or felt previously. Got it out and the dash came out towards the seat. Now I just have to purchase a couple o-rings for the heater hose connectors and it will be ready to start going back together.
I didn’t mess with mine as I was running the shop at the time. I had my heater core replaced on my 97’ F150 with a 4.6l. Absolute nightmare. It calls for 13.6 hours for a Ford mechanic that has done at 12 times in a row. I found out the reason why my heater core kept popping is I had a head gasket that was letting loose and the week point was the heater core causing it to blowing out. My heater core let loose two times within a year after I originally had it replaced. The third time the truck went for sale as I had no idea what was going on with it in the head gasket was bad until the next owner purchased it and it popped on him about six months later. If it was my truck I would out extra insurance on it and leave the keys in it unlocked hooping some one would steal it or run it into a wall before I had to replace one again.
Sounds like you’re on the homestretch I’ll keep my fingers crossed for you.
must have been contaigious. I had a 65 impala ss that I did the same to.Originally Posted by Jniedbalski
Yeah...if I had to do it myself I would’ve cut a the firewall. In and out then.
Success!!!! It is all back together and I have more heat than I know what to do with. Took awhile to put back together due to tornado warnings, heavy thunderstorms followed by snowfall all in 3 days time. I only have a couple screws left over, not bad since it has been apart for almost 2 weeks. Only a couple minor glitches when I put it back together. Didnt plug the inertia fuel switch back up, missed the connector for all the lights, and had the brake light switch mounted incorrectly. All works now and happy camper. Even my odometer started working again - 292k miles and running strong.
wanna do another while its still fresh???? LOL
For the right price I might. At least now I know I dont have to take things apart as far as I did. lol
You have my respect! That is a tough job! I'd rather pull an engine down and rebuild it rather than work inside of the dash.
"Luck don't live out here. Wolves don't kill the unlucky deer; they kill the weak ones..." Jeremy Renner in Wind River
Posting Permissions
| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
Reply With Quote