Inline FabricationADvertise hereLee PrecisionRepackbox
MidSouth Shooters SupplyWidenersRotoMetals2Titan Reloading

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 34

Thread: Any Ford mechanics or someone who has removed the dash in a F150

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Upstate SC
    Posts
    220

    Any Ford mechanics or someone who has removed the dash in a F150

    I need some advice. I am removing the dash in my year 2000 F150 to replace the non functioning heater core. I have a chiltons manual and have done everything it says to remove the dash, but I am still unable to remove it. Seems there is a major wire loom along the drivers side wall. I have disconnected the 3 connectors in that area from the engine compartment side. There is a black handle on that side against the fire wall, but it is tight and doesnt even wiggle. The manual doesnt even mention it or the major wire bundle on that side. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
    rdwarrior.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Logan, Ut.
    Posts
    442
    I wont claim to be anything but a "Cursing" mechanic.
    But when I run into something of this nature, most is cured between Google & Youtube. Good Luck !
    Good Judgment comes from Experience, Experience comes from Bad Judgment !

  3. #3
    Boolit Master poppy42's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    609
    I was A collision repair man for many years, many years ago! I’ve had to r&r many dashboards over the years. My advice to someone attempting this with no experience is to get someone else to do it! It is not a job for the faint of heart. In fact it can be dangerous we’re airbags are concerned. If you do attempt it, do your due diligence, take it slow and allow plenty of time without distractions. There is a plethora of electric/electronica connections that need to be unplugged and plugged back in in the proper sequence. If not done properly in the right sequence it is very easy Tarun some necessary electronics. If you do decide to attempt this I wish you all the luck in the world
    Long, Wide, Deep, and Without Hesitation!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master


    Kraschenbirn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    East Central IL
    Posts
    2,873
    Once upon a time I had to pull the dash in my old '94 F150 and IIRC is was a real PITA but, in this case, U-tube may be your best friend. Here ya' go...take your pick.


    https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+dash+removal+

    Bill
    "I'm not often right but I've never been wrong."

    Jimmy Buffett
    "Scarlet Begonias"

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    SE MISSOURI
    Posts
    598
    Is your heater core leaking? If it’s not leaking but won’t put out any heat it might be air locked . Easy to fix.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Upstate SC
    Posts
    220
    Quote Originally Posted by Jniedbalski View Post
    Is your heater core leaking? If it’s not leaking but won’t put out any heat it might be air locked . Easy to fix.
    Please explain the fix.
    Thanks

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    11,355
    It might be easier to cut a window out of the firewall to allow the core to be removed weld some tabs on it and bolt back in.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master




    Idaho45guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Idaho/Washington border
    Posts
    1,089
    Quote Originally Posted by poppy42 View Post
    I was A collision repair man for many years, many years ago! I’ve had to r&r many dashboards over the years. My advice to someone attempting this with no experience is to get someone else to do it! It is not a job for the faint of heart. In fact it can be dangerous we’re airbags are concerned. If you do attempt it, do your due diligence, take it slow and allow plenty of time without distractions. There is a plethora of electric/electronica connections that need to be unplugged and plugged back in in the proper sequence. If not done properly in the right sequence it is very easy Tarun some necessary electronics. If you do decide to attempt this I wish you all the luck in the world
    I second this! The heater core went bad in my son's `97 Mercury Cougar. Knowing that Ford's typically are a major PITA to change, I looked up a couple of videos on YouTube and discovered that it was an 8-hour job for an experienced mechanic. I told him to pay the $700 bid for the job at a local shop. Him and three of his fellow high school buddies attempted it, and a week later, and a couple of my ruined tools later, they had it done.

    I recently replaced a bad resistor in the dash of my 2005 GMC Yukon, and after a couple of hours of cussing and some bloody knuckles, I was done.

    In the future, any work involving the dash of a post-`80 vehicle, I will gladly pay someone else to do it.
    "Luck don't live out here. Wolves don't kill the unlucky deer; they kill the weak ones..." Jeremy Renner in Wind River

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    6,311
    For about the last 15-20 years (more in some models), auto manufacturers have been installing instrument panels/dash boards/etc. as one single unit - pre-assembled. If you watch videos of the assembly process you will see the dash board being inserted into the cabin from the side of the body before the doors are installed.
    This saves a huge amount of time on the assembly line and therefore reduces the cost of assembly. However, the dash is not designed to be easily serviced out of the vehicle. The engineering is geared towards cost savings at construction, not maintenance later in the life of the vehicle.

    Open the door on just about any current production vehicle and you will see three large screws on the end of the dash that are concealed when the door is closed. That's the attachment point for that large assembly and no, you generally can't just take it out the same way.


    It's not a fun job, Good Luck.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Upstate SC
    Posts
    220
    Quote Originally Posted by Jniedbalski View Post
    Is your heater core leaking? If it’s not leaking but won’t put out any heat it might be air locked . Easy to fix.
    Please explain the fix.
    Thanks

  11. #11
    Boolit Master bikerbeans's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    1,896
    Being a Ford the heater core is most likely filled with sediment. I would try back flushing it before replacing it. If it is leaking then replace it, a back flush might rupture the core.

    BB

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    South Louisiana
    Posts
    845
    If the core is not leaking, but will not blow warm air, the problem may be a blend door actuator. I had to repair my 2003 F150 with this issue. There is a YouTube video showing a somewhat easy repair hack. Dorman sells a kit to do this.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Upstate SC
    Posts
    220
    I have backwashed the heater core multiple times over the past 5 years with very little improvement. the last backwash resulted in zero heat. it does not leak. I have already checked the blend door and it seems to be working. I am going to replace the heater core as believe it is severely plugged up. While I am at I will replace the blend door to ensure it doesnt break after I put it all back together. I have the entire dash loose and the passenger side will pull back towards the seat. the drivers side is loose and pulls just a little ways back towards the seat. It seems the drivers side is still hung up on a large wire bundle going from the fuse box to the firewall. according to the chiltons manual I shouldnt have any problems in that area since I disconnected the 3 connectors from the firewall in the engine compartment on that side.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    obssd1958's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    944
    Just did the blend door replacement on a friends '99 F250, about a month ago. We used this video to guide us, and it all works now.


    What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us.
    - Henry S. Haskins in “Meditations in Wall Street”

    "Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rapidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end." ...Unknown

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Low country, SC
    Posts
    512
    Yep. If it's not leaking - it may be something else wrong causing no air flow through the heater core.

    Youtube is your friend....

    If it's obviously too onerous - pay a mechanic to bust his knuckles for you...

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    SE MISSOURI
    Posts
    598
    The two things for no heat are the blend door motor or the heater core is air locked. To get the air lock flushed out take both heater core hoses loose from the motor and or radiator. Take a water hose hot water is best . Flush out the junk and air in the core. I make a copper pipe and connect it to the water hose and then hose clamp the pipe in one end of the heater core hose. Leave one open to drain out. Let the hot water flush it out. I usually hook it up to the hot side port of the water heater. If you got junk in it or air it will come out. I have had them air locked or filled with stop leak but the water pressure and hot water will clean it out

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    SE MISSOURI
    Posts
    598
    I usually got all my parts to make my water hose connection from ace hardware you might have to solder them together. Or cut the end off the hose use a copper pipe and hose clamp it on both ends. Also try to clean it out both ways. Do one side first then unhook the hose and put it in the other heater core hose to reverse flow.

  18. #18
    I have had no heat in my 98 f150 and was sure it was the heater core. Well, it sort of was, but the main issue I had was the water pump. I had an issue with corrosion in the coolant but did not know it was from the impeller blades rusting off. It would run fine, and all of a sudden spike temperature. It would cool down and not overheat for sometimes days. All due to the impeller being corroded away to a flat disc.Had I known this, It wouldn’t have blown a head gasket or cracked/warped a head.

    So in the search for the culprit I replaced the heater core using one of the ford specific tutorials (and YouTube) that explained how to do it without completely removing most of the dash. You end up pulling it free on the passenger side and kind of letting it hang allowing to HVAC box access. It’s not a job for the impatient, it takes 4 to 6 hours on a good day.

    Replacing the heater core was a hard enough job that when the engine started misfiring (over a year later) from head issues, I didn’t get rid of it. I was hard headed enough to find another engine because I had already put so much into getting a new heater core.

    A shop will bill 8 hours.

    Mark

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    New Market, Iowa
    Posts
    481
    I worked on a 1970 Pontiac. The blower motor was non-functioning. Chilton's manual suggested removing the hood, outer right fender, and then the inner right fender. My boss fired up the cutting torch and made a nice window in the inner fender so we could reach through and RandR the blower motor. We then went to a sheet metal shop and had a cover made to fit that window.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    SE MISSOURI
    Posts
    598
    65 Chevy impala was the same way. We also cut a hole

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check