MidSouth Shooters SupplyLoad DataReloading EverythingWideners
Inline FabricationSnyders JerkyLee PrecisionTitan Reloading
Repackbox RotoMetals2
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 26 of 26

Thread: How to keep screws tight?

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    S. Ky
    Posts
    171
    Quote Originally Posted by kenton View Post
    If the screw is smaller than a #10 (10-32,10-24,M5x.8,etc) I start with purple loctite 222. I have had issues with blue loctite on smaller screws.
    Kenton I whole heartedly agree. Purple is specifically designed by Loctite for small diameter screws. Blue or other types lab tested as stripping out part of the threads. Plus heating to cherry temps also pulls any heat-treat from steels making parts unsafe. This info direct from the Loctite seminars.
    Members pay attention!! I don't jump up on a stump often, but damage from misinformation is just wrong.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    california
    Posts
    829
    680 is used for mounting a loose-fitting bearing. If you are going to want to get it apart at some point in the future, use something else. I used it on a loose axle bearing on a 4 wheeler years ago, and it never did fail as far as I know. That thing had about .010 slop in it. I pity anybody that tried to take it apart.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,393
    How can I tighten up my forend tenon dovetail? Can I take a punch and make a small burr so it tightens? Or is there a more professional way?

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Mytmousemalibu's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Wichita, KS
    Posts
    1,277
    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    How can I tighten up my forend tenon dovetail? Can I take a punch and make a small burr so it tightens? Or is there a more professional way?
    You can peen the edges with hammer and center punch to swell the tenon hole smaller. Your just displacing some metal to tighten it. Start small & light and just one or two spots first.
    ~ Chris


    Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all but most importantly, God, Family, The United States Constitution and Freedom...

    God Bless our Troops, Veterans and First Responders!

    Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas
    Accuracy, Power & Speed

  5. #25
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,393
    Quote Originally Posted by Mytmousemalibu View Post
    You can peen the edges with hammer and center punch to swell the tenon hole smaller. Your just displacing some metal to tighten it. Start small & light and just one or two spots first.
    Ok thats what I did, but i brought the gun out to the woods and shot a few rounds, now its loose again.

  6. #26
    Boolit Bub flagman1776's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Exeter, RI 02822
    Posts
    38
    I don't recommend red locktite for anything you might want to remove someday. I worked in marine electronics. A customer with a seriously overpowered boat insisted on wave jumping his 32 foot bass boat (so his buddies told me) which resulted in shaking nice new antennas apart, repeatedly. The base mount was on the side deck with a stand off from the flying bridge. I used lots of red locktite. Everything held so he actually broke the antennas. My boss was unable to remove the broken antenna, so I was sent to reverse what ever I'd done. I couldn't heat it where it was. I turned the boat around, put a pipe wrench on it and a ten foot cheater bar, clear across the dock. It fought me every turn. I cleaned up the threads with acetone and installed the new antenna. And pretended like I didn't know why my boss couldn't get it apart. (If he's reading this, sorry!) I threw the red locktite away.
    Last edited by flagman1776; 02-11-2020 at 02:03 PM. Reason: fix typo
    NRA Life Member
    member South County Rod & Gun Club

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check