Titan ReloadingLee PrecisionWidenersADvertise here
Inline FabricationRotoMetals2Repackbox

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 26 of 26

Thread: My New To Me CVA Mountain Rifle

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Bloomfield, Nebraska
    Posts
    5,727
    THe breech is a weird combination with a drum installed after the plug is in and THEN drilled for the flash hole. The drum is not made to remove. I had one of these in 1977 and shot it a lot and won matches with it, the stock was a little to straight for me but it sure would shoot!

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Outside Rolla, Missouri
    Posts
    1,025
    Congrats on a good, representative rifle!! Are those ramrod thimbles really 6 sided, hexagonal?

    Decades ago I shot the same rifle that I built from a kit and, as others have said, it was a shooter. Won a few matches and took a few deer. My aon has it now, some 35 years later and it still shoots!
    "In general, the art of government is to take as much money as possible from one class of citizens and give it to another class of citizens" Voltaire'

    The common virtue of capitalism is the sharing of equal opportunity. The common vice of socialism is the equal sharing of misery

    NRA Benefactor 2008

  3. #23
    Boolit Master


    rfd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    NJ via TX
    Posts
    3,447
    Quote Originally Posted by KCSO View Post
    THe breech is a weird combination with a drum installed after the plug is in and THEN drilled for the flash hole. The drum is not made to remove. I had one of these in 1977 and shot it a lot and won matches with it, the stock was a little to straight for me but it sure would shoot!
    a patent breech with flue.
    "Owning a handgun doesn't make you armed any more than owning a guitar makes you a musician." - Jeff Cooper

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    2,595
    Your post inspired me to finally get around to fixing my uncles CVA mountain rifle. It has been sitting in the corner for about a decade since they broke off the hook trying to remove the breech plug.

    I don't remember who gave me the idea to weld it back on, but it turned out great so far. I haven't shot it yet, so fingers crossed, but it looks strong.

    The original hook is long gone, so I had to mill my own from bar stock. Here it is after machining, made to fit the tang.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	cva1.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	41.4 KB 
ID:	256184

    Here is just after welding. I beveled the bottom, and tried to get as much weld into it as I could. I did a good job, and didn't get the barrel at all. It's only welded to the breech plug. I also beveled the tang so that I didn't have to file the weld perfectly flat. Hopefully this makes it stronger.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	cva2.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	34.3 KB 
ID:	256185

    Here is filed to shape
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	cva3.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	89.1 KB 
ID:	256186

    Here is fitted to the tang
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	cva4.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	32.6 KB 
ID:	256187

    And finally, we have a complete, functional rifle again. I'll shoot it, clean it up, and give it back to my Uncle this year. It's definately a CVA, nothing fits that great. But the barrel is a made in USA douglas. Even being left loaded for 20 years, there is not a speck of rust in it that I can see. I bet it shoots great.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	cva5.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	20.9 KB 
ID:	256188

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    1,502
    Quote Originally Posted by rfd View Post
    what kind of breech plug in that CVA MR - patent or flat faced?
    All the ones I have (and had), the breech plug screws in flush with the end of the barrel, nipple drum screws clear through the plug and into a little shallow recess in the far side barrel wall, nipple drum thread = 10mm metric, (from memory), unscrew the nipple drum and fit a coned touch hole liner to convert to flinter.
    Kentucky model has a short tang and pinned barrel 7/8" inch x 32 inch - small lockplate
    Pennnslyvania model tang and pinned barrel 7/8th inch x 42 inch - small lockplate
    Mountain Rifle has two wedge pins, 15/16th inch barrel x 32 inch - I think had the small lockplate ?
    Other sidelocks (Hawken, Missouri,etc ) single wedge pin 15/16th inch barrel x 28inch - some of these single wedge models had the large lockplate - some the small
    There was a Squirrel rifle too in 32 cal

    I would guess the earlier Douglas Barrels would have American threads - likely the nipple drum would be 7/16th UNC???

    Number one problem with the sidelock CVA's ? there were two different locks (innards) lets call em long sear and short sear - the toe of the sear on some was long and flimsy (and quite soft steel) and would gradually bend so it fouled the half cock notch - break if you kept at it - its an easy enough fix with a brazing torch and files - I posted my fix in a sticky at the top of the ML threads -----other than that I have not seen any more breakages (springs) with CVA locks than I have seen with L & R - their flinter lock is similar to other cheap small flintlocks - needs tuning and a frizzen harden - works some without, works fine after - but its a little lock - never gonna light up the countryside like a big old Siler or such.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    1,502
    Quote Originally Posted by rfd View Post
    what kind of breech plug in that CVA MR - patent or flat faced?
    All the ones I have (and had), the breech plug screws in flush with the end of the barrel, nipple drum screws clear through the plug and into a little shallow recess in the far side barrel wall, nipple drum thread = 10mm metric, (from memory), unscrew the nipple drum and fit a coned touch hole liner to convert to flinter.
    Kentucky model has a short tang and pinned barrel 7/8" inch x 32 inch - small lockplate
    Pennnslyvania model tang and pinned barrel 7/8th inch x 42 inch - small lockplate
    Mountain Rifle has two wedge pins, 15/16th inch barrel x 32 inch - I think had the small lockplate ?
    Other sidelocks (Hawken, Missouri,etc ) single wedge pin 15/16th inch barrel x 28inch - some of these single wedge models had the large lockplate - some the small
    There was a Squirrel rifle too in 32 cal

    I would guess the earlier Douglas Barrels would have American threads - likely the nipple drum would be 7/16th UNC???

    Number one problem with the sidelock CVA's ? there were two different locks (innards) lets call em long sear and short sear - the toe of the sear on some was long and flimsy (and quite soft steel) and would gradually bend so it fouled the half cock notch - break if you kept at it - its an easy enough fix with a brazing torch and files - I posted my fix in a sticky at the top of the ML threads -----other than that I have not seen any more breakages (springs) with CVA locks than I have seen with L & R - their flinter lock is similar to other cheap small flintlocks - needs tuning and a frizzen harden - works some without, works fine after - but its a little lock - never gonna light up the countryside like a big old Siler or such.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check