Lube for subsonic loadings do you need it?

[Ramson222]

Is lube needed on subsonic loads, if so could plain paraffin wax be used like what is on 22lr ammo?

[Ford SD]

Is lube needed on subsonic loads, if so could plain paraffin wax be used like what is on 22lr ammo?

you need a lube

I think Bee's wax is what is on 22rf

[BAGTIC]

Johnson' Paste Wax works great not only for subsonic but for most handgun velocity loads. I would be concerned that regular paraffin canning wax might be too brittle.

[Outpost75]

The 160 melting point paraffin that CCI uses on their standard velocity .22 LRwould work fine, but it is somewhat difficult to apply evenly in small batch application. What I have found satisfactory for .38 Special wadcutter and other low velocity revolver rounds like the .32 S&W Long, .455 Webley Mk2 and .38 S&W is to dilute Lee Liquid Alox with equal parts by liquid volume of clear mineral spirits and to just give the bullets a light wash to turn them a uniform brassy color without making any attempt to fill the lube grooves. One fluid ounce of the diluted lube will lube about 1000 or so .38 or .45 ACP wadcutters.

I use a .30 cal. ammo can as a bulk measure for the cast bullets, then dump these into a larger .50 cal. can to provide room for agitation, pour in the diluted liquid lube, then snap down the lid and turn the ammo can end-for-end ten times, then roll over sideways a full 360 degree rotation ten times, then open the lid and set a 10-inch box fan over the open top of the ammo can while I do someting else in the shop for 4-6 hours. This evaporates the excess solvent. After a time I snap the lid down again, repeat the agitation sequence and pour the contents of the ammo can out onto a pizza tray or cookie sheet to finish air drying.

After having done routine this 4-5 times the inside of the ammo can is well coated and if you are a truly cheap SOB you can do a run using an ounce of clear solvent only, using the agitation to dissolve and redistribute the residual dried lube residue in the can.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

what caliber?

In most cases I would use a tumble lube.

I shoot unlubed pellets in my air rifle.

[a danl]

Is lube needed on subsonic loads, if so could plain paraffin wax be used like what is on 22lr ammo?

yes..you need a lube otherwise you won't like cleaning the bbl

[mdi]

The majority of my 380 ACP and 38 Special handloads are "subsonic". And yes, they need lube. I use 45-45-10 and home made Speed Green and I wouldn't try plain paraffin...

[Elkins45]

The 160 melting point paraffin that CCI uses on their standard velocity .22 LRwould work fine, but it is somewhat difficult to apply evenly in small batch application. What I have found satisfactory for .38 Special wadcutter and other low velocity revolver rounds like the .32 S&W Long, .455 Webley Mk2 and .38 S&W is to dilute Lee Liquid Alox with equal parts by liquid volume of clear mineral spirits and to just give the bullets a light wash to turn them a uniform brassy color without making any attempt to fill the lube grooves. One fluid ounce of the diluted lube will lube about 1000 or so .38 or .45 ACP wadcutters.

I use a .30 cal. ammo can as a bulk measure for the cast bullets, then dump these into a larger .50 cal. can to provide room for agitation, pour in the diluted liquid lube, then snap down the lid and turn the ammo can end-for-end ten times, then roll over sideways a full 360 degree rotation ten times, then open the lid and set a 10-inch box fan over the open top of the ammo can while I do someting else in the shop for 4-6 hours. This evaporates the excess solvent. After a time I snap the lid down again, repeat the agitation sequence and pour the contents of the ammo can out onto a pizza tray or cookie sheet to finish air drying.

After having done routine this 4-5 times the inside of the ammo can is well coated and if you are a truly cheap SOB you can do a run using an ounce of clear solvent only, using the agitation to dissolve and redistribute the residual dried lube residue in the can.

That sounds like a good and repeatable process. I have always just used a cool whip bowl in small batches but I like your idea much better.

And yes OP you do need lube.

[Ramson222]

Thanks, Outpost75 that seems like the process for me.

[lar45]

I would suggest 45-45-10. It dries quick and is ready to load the next day, and works really well.
this was the last 5 of 100 shots in a 30-06 using the RanchDog 165 plain base, tumbled with 45-45-10.


I just use a coolwhip tub, dump a couple hundred boolits in, drizzle a small amount over the top, put the lid on and swirl them all around until they are all wet with a light tinge of brown, then dump onto a sheet of wax paper to dry over night.

https://lsstuff.com/store/index.php?...36luevvr9uk417

[webfoot10]

For sub sonic just use one coat of Bens Liquid Lube. Works every time.

[stubshaft]

I use Xlox for my 7.72X39 sub loading and after shooting the bore is clean as a whistle.

[Larry Gibson]

Buildup in the suppressor?

[Ramson222]

What lubes dry completely and are not sticky when ready to use?

[lar45]

My experience with 45-45-10 is that it takes about 4 hours to be dry to the touch and ready to load the next day. this is on a warm summer day. It may take longer to dry on a cold day.

[centershot]

You can always tumble them in powdered mica after the 45-45-10 is dry if you feel they are sticky, also prevents lube transfer to your seating die.

[Huvius]

Give Maxima Chain Wax in the spray can a try.
I've used it in some Rook rifles with no issues.
If you don't like it for boolits, your bike chains certainly will!

[dverna]

For sub sonic just use one coat of Bens Liquid Lube. Works every time.

Yes, I like simple and effective. Ideally with a bullet that can be shot as cast. Otherwise, if I have to size them, I may as well lube them in the Star.

[JoeJames]

The 160 melting point paraffin that CCI uses on their standard velocity .22 LRwould work fine, but it is somewhat difficult to apply evenly in small batch application. What I have found satisfactory for .38 Special wadcutter and other low velocity revolver rounds like the .32 S&W Long, .455 Webley Mk2 and .38 S&W is to dilute Lee Liquid Alox with equal parts by liquid volume of clear mineral spirits and to just give the bullets a light wash to turn them a uniform brassy color without making any attempt to fill the lube grooves. One fluid ounce of the diluted lube will lube about 1000 or so .38 or .45 ACP wadcutters.

I use a .30 cal. ammo can as a bulk measure for the cast bullets, then dump these into a larger .50 cal. can to provide room for agitation, pour in the diluted liquid lube, then snap down the lid and turn the ammo can end-for-end ten times, then roll over sideways a full 360 degree rotation ten times, then open the lid and set a 10-inch box fan over the open top of the ammo can while I do someting else in the shop for 4-6 hours. This evaporates the excess solvent. After a time I snap the lid down again, repeat the agitation sequence and pour the contents of the ammo can out onto a pizza tray or cookie sheet to finish air drying.

After having done routine this 4-5 times the inside of the ammo can is well coated and if you are a truly cheap SOB you can do a run using an ounce of clear solvent only, using the agitation to dissolve and redistribute the residual dried lube residue in the can.

Thanks, that's a good one which I am going to print out for my notebook.

[barrabruce]

I use mine as cast and dip lube or pick them out of tin of melted 50/50 bees wax and vasalene.
I keep them in a 100 pistol cartridge case.
I cast them soft and want not to ding them up.

ALOX works fine diluted but I detest the smell of it.

I don’t shoot a trillion and do mag dumps thou.