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Thread: J.C. Higgins Model 30 extraction

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    J.C. Higgins Model 30 extraction

    Hello All: I'm working on a Model 30 with extraction issues unless the highest velocity ammo is used. I'm thinking of replacing the action spring with a lighter one. Think this will help, or is this just one of those autoloaders requiring hot ammo? Are modern high velocity 22's milder than vintage 22's? Best, Dan

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    metricmonkeywrench's Avatar
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    No!!!! Standard velocity only, you’ll end up beating the poor rifle up. There is no “buffer” in these classics.

    Start with the basics, good cleaning, funk in the extractor grooves, check the barrel to see if the barrel face is peened in the firing pin area.

    Check the extractor plate in the receiver, and the extractor hook or claw on the bolt.

    There is not a lot to them and accurate as all get out once you get it running right.

  3. #3
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    I have one of these, while a youngster my pops feed us on squirrels. He had his gun stolen. My grandfather bought it for him. I shot that gun so much I keep several ammo companies in business. So it is mine now and will be my son's soon. It no longer functions any more. I understand it is the extractor that has come lose. I will repair it before the boy gets it.

    Chuck40219
    When I speak of:
    45-70: that is a 45-70 Uberti 1885 High Wall Rifle
    357 Mag. Rifle: that is a Uberti 1873 Carbine

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    metricmonkeywrench's Avatar
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    Here's a pic of a receiver (not mine) showing the ejector plate. They are staked into place and often come loose and are a real pain to fix.

    I'll have to pull mine down and get a shot of the extractor claw, there are two styles, a flat plate hook and a two prong "claw" either one must be square and "sharp" to grab the case on extraction. they used to be available from Numrich

    The system is pretty simple the claw grabs the case and as the bolt slides back the case hits the ejector plate on the opposite side of the claw and gets flipped out of the action.

    As an integrated piece of the cycle sequence the failure to eject other than what I mentioned before may also be caused by a sticking or slow acting bolt or by some drag on the action handle where it is up in the forward grip. The last thing I would suspect is the action spring

    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    I would like to thank you for your suggestions. Cleaned the action and bolt till it was spotless. The ejector is staked tight. The extractor hook is sharp without burrs, and the breech face is clean and burrless. I can cycle the action manually without issue; works great. I've been attempting to fire CCI SV ammo and it just won't eject. CCI mini mags work great. By the way, I forgot to mention this gun was not able to be fixed by the previous owner/gunsmith. Any other suggestions? Best, Dan

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy PJEagle's Avatar
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    I just finished cleaning up an old model 31 with a broken extractor. Replaced the extractor with one I found on e-bay, but it still wouldn't always function. Then I cleaned the two holes at the front of the receiver where the extractor rests when in battery with a dental tool. Now everything works fine. I couldn't believe how much crud I pulled out of those two little indentations.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    metricmonkeywrench's Avatar
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    Sounds like your getting there, don’t forget that the action assembly is part of the system, as the bolt is moving to the rear the hammer is being reset and the next round lifted into place. Any drag or stiffness in this area will result in the bolt not fully cycling, something you may not notice or feel when cycling by hand.

    When I got mine going after many years of sitting. It took a lot of soaking the action in solvent and oil to get things moving correctly. I even went after the chamber with a brush chucked up in a drill for a few strokes. After a dozen or so rounds it settled down and I can pretty much fire anything standard velocity I feed it.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Danth, see you looking for a barrel over on S&S... What's up?

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    Well, here's one for the books. I decided to completely tear down the rifle and start from scratch. Nothing worked trying to get the rifle to shoot SV ammo. Upon removing the magazine tube and barrel, I noticed a crack in the barrel from the breech to within 3" of the muzzle! Likely the problem, but I sure would like to know how a barrel could split from the breech end to nearly the muzzle!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check