Bought a beat-up old H&G mold

[KevH]

I bought a rather beat up 4 cavity H&G mold that appears to be a 158gr SWC or similar.

The exterior of the mold looks like someone took a hammer or a piece of metal bar to it.

The interior of the mold is gorgeous.

It locks up rather well, but I'm a tad concerned about the top of the mold under the sprue plate.

Who makes handles that will fit this thing? Would you try to cast with it as is?

[KevH]

Another question:

The top of the sprue plate is covered in surface rust as are the screw heads.

Would soaking them in Evaporust and then cold blueing them with Oxphoblue be a bad idea?

[Gofaaast]

I filed down a set of RCBS handles a few years ago for one of my 4 cav H&G moulds. It took a few days though. You may need to sand off some high spots on the blocks it looks like. I would use 800 grit on a piece of thick glass if you have issues after trying the mould. It’s a shame how some of these fine pieces were treated by folks of yesteryear. I have a 2 cavity H&G that looks awful on the outside but casts flawlessly.

[georgerkahn]

Congrats on your new mould! To try and answer some of your questions, first -- you bet I'd cast with it! First, of course, I'd gently clean it up; pre-heat it; and, cast away! There is a pretty fine web-site devolted exclusively to these -- https://www.hensleygibbs.com -- and it has a wealth of info on it.

I have a small collection of these (52), and have nothing on each 'cept handles made by Hensley and Gibbs, and/or delightful handles purveyed by a wonderful member (VS) on this site: Rick, at http://www.kal.castpics.net -- he resides in Manitoba, Canada, and his work is delightful. In addition to handles, he makes and purveys sprue plates, too, I believe.

According to the mould list on the site, yours is an old-timer; site indicates, "#51 - .38 S& W Special. 160 grains. Design by Philip B. Sharpe. Plain base or bevel base or gas check base available. One grease groove, one crimp groove, semi-wadcutter shoulder, gently rounded nose, to meplat."\\

Putting the marks on your mould into "English" , it is their Number 51 mould, to cast 0.358" diameter bullets, with a modal weight of 160 grains, each.

I hope this helps you! Conrats again!
geo

[Martin Luber]

A poor workman ....misuses his tools. Too bad what someone did to that mould but you can save it.

If the bases aren't sharp, you could have a machine shop mill the top and make it true again.

[Martin Luber]

Rust on top isn't a problem.

[toallmy]

You can clean it up , but study it a little before starting you cannot put back what you take off . I see in the photos around the alignment pin holes are beat up a little , so be really careful making shore it's closing nice before trying to smooth up the top of the blocks .
Do a little research in mold maintenance and design before starting it could turn into a nice project although it will never be in like new condition it can be bought back to very serviceable condition .

[s mac]

That's where my old mould went. Just kidding, it is a shame. I only have four H&G, pretty nice tools. Hope you can bring it back into service.

[Winger Ed.]

That's why ya use something other than a steel hammer to do the drops.

As easy as handles are to modify, that's the least of your problems.
With going slow, careful, and thinking it through, the mold looks salvageable.

I wouldn't bother bluing the plate.
Before long, it'll season up OK like Grandma's cast iron frying pan.

[Chill Wills]

Order of operation (mine)

Mold half registration: I would tap the pins until the mold halves don't wiggle or move when you press the two together and wiggle them.

After that you can work on the top of the two blocks as a unit. Either secure them together with a clamp of if you can find a friend with a milling machine that would be best. If we were close, I would do it. Take very small cuts with the mill or with a flat surface and 100 grit wet/dry, try to work your way down into mostly a good flat top. Some imperfection may need to be overlooked.

The top plate or sprue plate (underside) can be worked in the same way on the same flat/wet/dry paper.

I would be interested in how it turn out. Please post a picture.

[KevH]

I appreciate all the advice.

If I have the top of the mold milled to true it wouldn't I lose mass at the base of the bullet?

I can try to take some more close up pictures tomorrow if that helps.

Is there anyone on here that does this type of work? I only have $35 into this thing so far. I'd like to save it and put it back to work.

[skeettx]

Do nothing to it till you cast some bullets,
then evaluate what needs to be done
Mike

[dverna]

Do nothing to it till you cast some bullets,
then evaluate what needs to be done
Mike

Good advice. It may look fugly and work well.

Milling the top of the mold (if needed) will reduce bullet weight but you do not want to take much off anyway.

[Don Purcell]

The previous owner needs marks on his skull to match the mold. Idiot.

[lightman]

I think the suggestion to clean it up and cast with it first is good advice. Unless a member here volunteers his services I would contact Eric at Hollowpoint Molds about any needed repairs. The inside looks remarkably good compared to the outside!

If that old mold could talk it would be interesting to hear its stories!

[Burnt Fingers]

The directions sent out with the H&Gm molds said to tap the mold to get the boolits to drop. Tap, not pound.

[Scrounge]

I appreciate all the advice.

If I have the top of the mold milled to true it wouldn't I lose mass at the base of the bullet?

I can try to take some more close up pictures tomorrow if that helps.

Is there anyone on here that does this type of work? I only have $35 into this thing so far. I'd like to save it and put it back to work.

First: Skeettx/Mike is absolutely right. Just use it first, and see if you really NEED to do it. My dad had worse, and got decent bullets from them, IIRC.

Second: Wet or dry sanding cloth on a piece of glass, or a surface plate, or table saw top can work, too, and it's pretty cheap, though very slow. If you do that, Follow Chill Will's advice, though I think I'd start with 220 or 400 grit. It will cut slower, take off less material, and leave finer scratches to remove later. It will also make it harder to ruin the mold quickly. Then work your way up to 1000 grit, or even 3000 grit, if you're a perfectionist. While you're working it down, try not to rock it, so you don't wind up with a curved surface. Also, every couple of strokes, rotate it a bit, which will also help keep it flat. Every couple of minutes, or less if you're using coarser grits, check it several ways with a straightedge or a square. Machinists use squares like these: https://www.amazon.com/machinist-squ...chinist+square or you could use a combination square, like these: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=combinati...f=nb_sb_noss_1 If you do any woodworking, you may already have one of these. Or you can eyeball it, if you don't ever intend to do this again.

Third: If you have, or know someone close by who has, a lathe with 4-jaw chuck, you could "mill" it in a lathe, too. Really light cuts, and only as deep as you absolutely must.

I have an old Atlas 10F lathe, with a four jaw chuck, IF I can get my workshop cleaned up enough to get to it. If you're not in too much of a rush, I might be able to do it for you, if you're anywhere near Oklahoma City. I got laid off Friday, and I'm old enough to retire, so fixing the shop is how I plan to spend much of my time for the next few weeks. I'm not a machinist, just a hobbyist, but I am nearly done with a class on becoming a machinist. Still working on the lathe projects, in fact.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

That is a Pre-H&G mold.
From what I understand, it probably dates to the early 1930s with those markings.
I also have a "Geo.A.Hensley" marked mold, is a 38 cal "Long WC".
My mold also shows some battle wounds, but dang, it's almost 90 years old.
I would gently clean up the rust first, without removing any patina. Then try casting with it. It is likely worth considerably more than what you expect, so I would be very hesitant to start fixing it by filing/grinding. That will likely reduce an potential high value.

As to the handles, I bet a Lyman 4 cav set of handles will fit...may have to modify them a bit.
But if you are equiped to modify Handles, as I am, I would modify a set of Lee handles...which I have done for several molds, they are still going strong...they haven't snapped yet.

[Chill Wills]

I bought a rather beat up 4 cavity H&G mold that appears to be a 158gr SWC or similar.

The exterior of the mold looks like someone took a hammer or a piece of metal bar to it.

The interior of the mold is gorgeous.

It locks up rather well, but I'm a tad concerned about the top of the mold under the sprue plate.
Would you try to cast with it as is?

Hey guys, I completely agree. Try casting the mold before moving to the next step. I would.

And it would take me about three casting cycles to then stop casting. I would have seen enough. By the picture of the topography on the top of the mold, some of those wounds are 0.030" deep.
No way in the world did that mold get into that shape from casting bullets. Not even used by the worlds most abusive caster could cause that much wear. I would bet something else caused it. I have no idea. Maybe used for a wheel chock at a round house

I think it would take some light cuts and re-cast. Yup! At some point that base band is going to get to looking mighty thin.

IMHO - If you want a working mold, that is what it will take.
If someone is willing to step up and offer good cash for it as a collector - sell it.

That poor mold got used for something other than casting bullets to get in that condition.

By the way, if you want to do figure 8's on a flat surface, try 100 grit, work it lightly and leave some texture on it - works well to get the air out when the top plate is on. You don't need to polish it and really, it will cast easier cleaned up to dead flat with a 100 to 220 (max) grit finish.

[KevH]

I have a small collection of these (52), and have nothing on each 'cept handles made by Hensley and Gibbs, and/or delightful handles purveyed by a wonderful member (VS) on this site: Rick, at http://www.kal.castpics.net -- he resides in Manitoba, Canada, and his work is delightful. In addition to handles, he makes and purveys sprue plates, too, I believe.

I have a set of handles on the way from Rick. Thank you for the reference!