Snyders JerkyTitan ReloadingMidSouth Shooters SupplyRepackbox
Lee PrecisionWidenersRotoMetals2Reloading Everything
Load Data Inline Fabrication
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 30

Thread: Hull vise?

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    75

    Hull vise?

    Looking to either purchase or build a hull vise. What are you all using?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Beautiful Idaho
    Posts
    2,644
    I have a BPI hull clamp and it works fine but so do the homemade wooden V blocks held by a cheap 4" clamp and they don't cost anything but a little time to make. Gp

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    toallmy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    easternshore of va.
    Posts
    2,998
    Just a thought - I have found that with a sheet of sandpaper under the base of the hull , I can hold the hull easily with my fingers while roll crimping , but with a little imagination a small piece of wood with the proper sized hole drilled through and a split cut through one side could be used to squeeze a little pressure on the base of the hull .

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    355
    I had a drill press vise and rubber vise jaws already in my shop so I used them and they work great. Not sure it would be worth purchasing the stuff over a hull vise if you don't already have the drill press vise but if you do its an option.

    https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-D...4-3e7a9c0027d0

    https://www.amazon.com/Yost-UP360-Un...4-3e7a9c0027d0

    The round cut out in the pads fit a 12 gauge hull great.

  5. #5
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    75
    I've looked at the BPI hull vise, but seems a little high on the cost. I did find the same style clamp that they use for $2.00. Thinking of milling some blocks of UHMW for a hull holder and bend a piece of flat 1/8" stainless for a base. I'll report back once project is finished.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Castlegar, B.C., Canada
    Posts
    7,941
    You might do a search of Petander's posts. he made a very simple plywood clamp. He cut a narrow strip of plywood, drilled a hole to suit the metal head on the hull at one end, slit from the other end (handle end) to the hole. Works like tongs but without a hinge, just squeeze to grip. Simple and effective.

    Longbow

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master


    missionary5155's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Temporarily near Orlando FL
    Posts
    7,133
    I like that one Longbow ! Simple cheap and easy !
    "Come unto Me, all you who labor and are heavy burdened, and I will give you rest." Matthew 11:28
    Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    3,415
    Some years ago I got the BPI hull vise ,it works for me ,think it did not cost as much as it dose now when I got it.
    Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    55
    Quote Originally Posted by toallmy View Post
    Just a thought - I have found that with a sheet of sandpaper under the base of the hull , I can hold the hull easily with my fingers while roll crimping , but with a little imagination a small piece of wood with the proper sized hole drilled through and a split cut through one side could be used to squeeze a little pressure on the base of the hull .
    I've done something similar for roll crimping on the drill press. Drill part way through a board and place a rubber washer in it. The rubber gives enough friction to make roll crimping easy.

  10. #10
    Moderator

    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ojai CA
    Posts
    9,884
    This is what I have been using. I stole the idea from a guy who posted a Youtube Video here. Took approximately 30 minutes to make and works really well.

    A tight 3/4" hole and then saw cut the slots.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  11. #11
    Boolit Mold TexPatriot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by Muddydogs View Post
    I had a drill press vise and rubber vise jaws already in my shop so I used them and they work great. Not sure it would be worth purchasing the stuff over a hull vise if you don't already have the drill press vise but if you do its an option.

    https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-D...4-3e7a9c0027d0

    https://www.amazon.com/Yost-UP360-Un...4-3e7a9c0027d0

    The round cut out in the pads fit a 12 gauge hull great.
    Thank you for that information. I already have those. Perfect.
    Love somebody today

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    I've got the BPI hull vice, but don't like it very much. I've got something similar to the above, with a 3/4" hole drilled in a board, and I used strapping for a hinge. W.R.Buchanan has a much more elegant version.

  13. #13
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Va
    Posts
    51
    Have been using the BPI. Works well and holds hulls firm.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    4,707
    I bought the BPI a month ago . But not until I had them tell me it would work for my 8 gauge . I’ll most likely also use it for the 10 , 12 and 16 as well .
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Castlegar, B.C., Canada
    Posts
    7,941
    Randy's is like Petander's... same idea. Simple and effective. I like it.

    No, I haven't made myself one yet. I will get to it! Too many things going on lately. My loading and shooting has been neglected for a while.

  16. #16
    Moderator

    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ojai CA
    Posts
    9,884
    Yes that thing I made was from 3/4" plywood. It has a tight 3/4" hole drilled thru it and the underside was counter bored to take the rim of the hull.

    It was simple to make and works well, however you do have to hold onto it, and it needs to sit on a flat surface.

    Note; that I put the speed on it so I wouldn't forget what works.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    4,707
    If a person wants to go easy and less costly just take a pair of channel locks or vise grips and wrap a little tape around the face on each side . Then close around the brass and crimp .
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    4,707
    This thread gave me an epiphany ! I have several hundred RST 16 gauge 2 1/2” hulls and I was thinking if I wanted to get a short kit for my 600JR 16 gauge loader . No need I’ll load same as usual on the JR and crimp with a roll from my drill press . Might also come up with some new roll crimped 16 gauge 2 3/4” buck and slug loads .
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  19. #19
    Moderator

    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ojai CA
    Posts
    9,884
    Quote Originally Posted by 6pt-sika View Post
    This thread gave me an epiphany ! I have several hundred RST 16 gauge 2 1/2” hulls and I was thinking if I wanted to get a short kit for my 600JR 16 gauge loader . No need I’ll load same as usual on the JR and crimp with a roll from my drill press . Might also come up with some new roll crimped 16 gauge 2 3/4” buck and slug loads .
    Once again "6pt Dedication" shows itself.

    All my slug loads are loaded up to the payload on a machine. Then insert the slug and whatever below it, and then roll crimp.

    BPI has some neato Wooden Loading Blocks you can use so everything stays upright. Get 2 so you can run the hulls across them.

    Randy
    Last edited by W.R.Buchanan; 08-22-2020 at 06:32 PM.
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  20. #20
    Boolit Master copdills's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    824
    I use a homemade plywood clamp also, works great

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check