zero repeatability remounting optics

[bmortell]

if you have a rifle where you switch between optics for example a red dot and a scope, how close is the point of impact when putting your scope back on?

[NSB]

It's been my experience that it goes back to pretty close to where it was. Usually requires a click or two to get it back to "dead on". This is with split rings. I suspect Leupold rings might be a bit different simply due to the way they attach to the base.

[TNsailorman]

I have used quite a few of the Weaver detachable mounts over the years since the 60's and they all go back within an inch or so at 100 yards. If you miss a deer at 100 yards with that kind of repeatability, my opinion would be to look at something other than just putting the scope back on the rifle. I would check zero before going hunting though. I always did whether I had changed the scope or anything else for that matter. I always checked the zero before every hunt.

[gpidaho]

I have a one piece two ring detachable scope mount on my AR. It's made by Wilson Combat and holds a TriJicon Aim Point. It hold pretty close (maybe a click or two) going on and off. Gp

[megasupermagnum]

The Warne detachable rings have the highest reputation for repeatability that I have found.

[winelover]

I use, either the QD Warne or the QD Luepold rings, without noticing change in POI. When switching optics, make sure to push/seat the mounted optic, all the way forward for repeatability.

With Trijicon red dots, I haven't any noticable POI changes either, using their mounts.

Winelover

[barrabruce]

What wine lover said.
Except I know nothing about red dots.
I have Leupold qd’s.
Keep the mating surfaces clean and nip them up for and aft a little at a time aligning to the front of the base.
I Keep my scope seperate and remount it on my gun all the time.
I will rarely be a moa out.
Mostly I can’t tell.

I’ve shot a 10 shot group once by remounting the scope every shot and it was a smaller group than I normally would shoot.
Extended time may have kept the barrell at a more constant temperature.

That built my confidence up heaps.

I have known other people who are more hamfisted and ignorant and just expect things to fall in place no matter what they do and are less than impressed.

[georgerkahn]

I have an air rifle I do this swap on: a Leupold scope for target, and a red dot for critter dispatch. (It is a .22 caliber PCP Benjamin Marauder) My answer may sound/be "funny" (as in, "strange"), as I can take off and put either on what seems as many times as I wish, and -- learned by trying this very same thing -- if I take off and reinstall either, the point of impact is withing a rough one-half inch at 50 yards. However, when I switch from the Leupold to the red dot, the group seems to drop about an inch. A "trick" which has helped to allllmost eliminate this is I applied a drop of Wite-Out (the stuff to paint over pen/type mistakes) with the tiny end of a tooth pick to the exact mounting location of each. (The mount for the Leupold is at least an inch wider than that of the Red Dot). By carefully remounting each on Wite-Out spot -- repeatedly is -- NOT perfect -- but alllmost .
BEST!
geo

[country gent]

I have swapped between scopes and irons on my long range rifles with little change. a food 1 piece base and well mated rings that are cross bolt design will repeat very closely.

[W.R.Buchanan]

You kind of need a one piece mount. That eliminates any variance between the actual Rings and their attachment to the Scope.

I have two mounts that repeat very well. One is on my Mauser .22 and was made by Anschutz and uses Redfield rings to attach the Weaver K4 to the mount. The gun was sighted in in 1978 and has never changed and the scope has been on and off the gun a hundred times easily.

The Germans had all this removable mounting of optics figured by by the end of WWI, and the German Claw type mount is probably the best ever conceived, adn pretty much all European Custom guns will have them.

The other is a one piece mount by GG&G and it is on my Scout Rifle. It is close but not exact like the other mount.

The Anschutz Mount is steel and attaches to grooves in the steel receiver of the Mauser. The GG&G Mount is steel but attaches to an Aluminum Weaver Rail on the gun, and there in lies the possible discrepancy. Aluminum is not as hard up a surface to mount to as Steel is, and that rail only attaches to the gun with 3 small screws so movement is probable. Also you must remember to shove the mount all the way forward in the Picatinny Groove so recoil won't move the mount around during recoil.

One other thing to consider is that any dirt at all in the mix will change the zero. .001 of an inch under the mount on either the front or back will change the POI 1". A Leupold Tech told me that when I complained that I couldn't get their mounts to repeat at all. It is VERY easy to get a fiber or other piece of dirt or foreign matter under that attachment points. .001 is 1/3 to 1/4 the size of a hair.

It still didn't help much and that's why I got the GG&G mount which is excellent.

This one is one of the best I've seen.

https://www.gggaz.com/quick-detach-s...bolt-guns.html

Randy

[Rick Hodges]

I have Talley QD (with levers) mounts in a scout arrangement on my Marlin guide gun. I have taken it off and put it back on between shots firing a 5 shot group at 100 yds and it is indistinguishable from a similar group fired with the scope stationary the whole time. It is a 2.5X Leupold and a 45-70 but still groups inside 2 1/2" at 100 yds to same point of impact either way. Close enough for that application.

[HandsOff]

This is a really good tip.
I found that the slots in all of my M-LOK handguards are in different locations, so I used a silver Sharpie to mark all my equipment mounting points. Scopes, Dots, brass catchers, etc. It helps keep my Magnetospeed and bipod the same on all my rifles since the picatinny rail sections mount aren't in uniform locations between rifles. It's also handy when you have to strip an upper since there's no guesswork during reassembly.

[bmortell]

its my marlin 1894 im talking about, I used peep sights for a year but I wanted higher precision so I put a rail on it. I want to switch between a sig red dot and a bushnell 3x9 whenever I want. since the rail isn't that long I use the first and last slot for scope rings. the scope ring clamps for the rail seem thin like its stamped and folded metal I think that's causing it to be not very repeatable. im sure the big one piece mounts are best but there expensive. the lever quick detach kind would make me paranoid and I dont need to switch quickly. think id just need one with more robust bottom clamp and with torx bits so it dont wear out over many uses

[winelover]

I use an XS Sight Systems lever mount on my 1894. Plenty long for conventional scope or mounting any red dot that uses Weaver type mounts.





https://www.xssights.com/Products.aspx?CAT=8282


Winelover

[popper]

One piece mount and if on a rail, push forward in the notch or mark location. Removing scope from rings upsets poa most. Those quick-mount lever on the side ones aren't very repeatable. That said, my 30/30 scope hasn't been moved in 10 yrs. Not broke so why fix it?