Cracked stock simple fix, yeah right :(

[samari46]

I use woodworkers wood dowels in some patch jobs. I use the ones that have the grooves on them and liberally coat the dowel with whatever glue I'm using.And in some cases have to set the dowels with a hammer. In drilling I use the spire pointed drill bits. One thing is that they don't take stain as well as the surrounding wood. So I'll use a acid brush to paint the dowel ends ususlley can get a decent match but there are sometimes no amount of trickery will work. Frank

[nicholst55]

Use brass stock repair pins, below. Use canned or compressed air to blow epoxy into the crack. If the wood is oil soaked, I would degrease it with acetone first.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...t-prod617.aspx

[blackbahart]

have been using a shop vacuum to pull glues and epoxy into through cracks till it comes out the others side and surprisingly it has been a very successful endeavour

[LAGS]

I have used the stock repair pins from Brownells before.
They work great and if placed correctly , you can hardly see the ends of the brass pin on the surface of the stock.
There are so many ways to repair stocks , so it is just up to what the rifle will be used for , and what cracked it in the first place.
I buy or am given many cracked stocks.
I repair them and put them back on rifles that need a stock or they need repairs.
I am currently working on three Thompson Center Hawkins or Renegade stocks that have severe cracks in them.
It is fun being The Stock Doctor.

[pietro]

The Blind Reinforcement bolt bedded into the front of the stock is a good idea.

But there is no way to do something similar at the crack running down the wrist of the stock.

The wrist can be re-inforced from inside the inletting, making the work invisible with the rifle assembled.

Before repairing the wrist crack, in the tang inletting, drill a 1/8" hole into the forward face of the wrist from the area under the rear tang.

Drilling a few more holes likewise, but crossing each other, will let the epoxy prevent further spreading of the crack after it cures - just be sure to not let the drill bit get through the surface of the wrist from inside.

Once that's done epoxy the crack, then force epoxy into the drilled hole, followed by an appropriate length of 1/8" rod (I use the sacrificial drill bit used to make the hole.)

Just ensure that no part of the hardened repair intrudes into the tang inletting.


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[HangFireW8]

Love those threaded brass rods linked by Nicholst55. Done right they are just a little brass dot on the wood. With epoxy they hold very strong.

Lots of other good advice here... if your stock cracked, usually bedding needs to be fixed too. And, clamps.

[redhawk0]

Spread the crack with wedges...lay in your woodglue and use an air compressor with a blowgun attachment and blow the glue deep into the crack. Then remove the wedges and tightly clamp it. In general...woodglue will actually be stronger than the wood and it won't crack there again. Unfortunately, it "might" crack somewhere else if the integrity of the wood is compromised.

redhawk

[wyofool]

But I suspect that in the photo you did not have the tube spacer installed at the rear, you didn't show that in the picture.
But I did see the metal tube spacer in pictures , still in the rear of the stock.

Lags, not a metal tube spacer, a spring! The front lug has a fiber spacer between trigger guard and reciever.
Attachment 254537 Attachment 254538
I'm guessing I can make a spacer out of pipe or tubing (with a little work)
I showed my friend what was involved in the repair and he wanted to know if a new stock was possible?? What is the possiblity of finding a new stock?

[wyofool]

Lags I don't think he has any screws in the trigger guard, just a single rubber band around it and receiver, therefore it should just sit down onto the receiver. The front looks bent down, it needs straightened out?

I have the screws and the front one will screw into the receiver easily with out the trigger guard in place but with trigger guard in place it is very hard to screw in.

[wyofool]

Took all of the pieces over to show my friend and let him know what will be involved. As I noted earlier he asked about a new stock but also said this will just be a shooter. He will pay for the stuff needed and all the beer I can drink, I think he will come out on the short end but I'll have to wait until its finished, don't want it to look like a hack job.

[Idz]

An excellent wood glue for hairline cracks is "Titebond wood adhesive thin". It is water thin and self-wicks into cracks and holds well. You don't have to spread the crack like epoxy requires and risk more damage.

[Texas by God]

There is no sense in repairing the stock cracks until you straighten out the bottom metal and get the rear screw spacer correct. Better yet, get the correct Turk 38 parts from Gun Parts Corporation.

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[LAGS]

@wyofool.
The magazine box is made to sit right down on the bottom of the action and have a steel tube spacer on the rear action screw to make the magazine box or Bottom Metal fit properly.
But I bet , When they replaced the stock the stock was taller and they made some modifications like putting the spacer on the front , and a spring to replace the rear spacer.
The proper way it should have been done would be to set the bottom metal first to fit in the stock , then inlet the action and barrel so it fits down properly on the bottom metal.
The rifle looks like a standard Mauser 98 action.
Any aftermarket 98 stock can be fit to that action.
They say they are drop in.
But there is some fitting to do on different models to make them fit properly.
Or you end up with an action that is not set solid in the stock , and the stock may be prone to cracking.
Your stock can be repaired and properly fitted to the action.
But as mentioned by others , the bottom metal is probably a little bent from improper fitting.
But it can be straightened.
If you lived closer I would gladly help you out and show you how to fit the stock properly and repair the crack.
I have a Turk 38 that I built a Custom stock from scratch and re barreled it to 25-06

[wyofool]

There is no sense in repairing the stock cracks until you straighten out the bottom metal and get the rear screw spacer correct. Better yet, get the correct Turk 38 parts from Gun Parts Corporation.

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Thanks for the info, I've gotten things from Numrich before not sure why I didn't think of it. They have "Stock, Sporter, Semi-Finished, Walnut" $45. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1370200 Not bad if it would work. Also looked up the trigger guard just for grins. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1064330 for a Model: 1903 TURKISH but on the same page they have Guard Screw Bushing, Rear, Used 1903 TURKISH $3.
At least I'll have other options if things don't work right.

[oldred]

I have built stocks for years from walnut that I cut myself and have run into many cracks while trying to save fine figured wood, many pieces of highly figured wood have had cracks and the blank was just otherwise too nice to throw away. Don't laugh at using Super glue (Krazy glue)! Someone earlier in this thread mentioned it but little else has been said about it, here is what I have done. Since epoxy can be extremely difficult to get deep into thin cracks and impossible to get into hair line cracks I started to research ways to save these otherwise very nice stock blanks and several folks suggested Super glue because of it's unique ability to wick into hairline cracks but I was skeptical of the stuff. I have tested these repairs to destruction of the wood glued with it and it is VERY strong! What really sets it apart is how deeply it will penetrate into even the thinnest cracks, not only that but it actually penetrates into the wood grain itself. I have sawed apart test pieces to see how far it will wick into hairline cracks and in most cases it will actually go all the way to the bottom of the crack or all the way through if the crack is all the way through. This stuff really is amazing and is all I use but if you do use it make sure and get a good quality and not a bargain store brand.

Just try the stuff on a test piece with a thin crack, it's really amazing to watch that glue instantly wick itself into even the thinnest of cracks and as you have to add more it seems to just disappear into the wood as it's applied. Unlike it's well known attribute of setting up instantly under pressure it will take a while when used to repair wood but once it sets the crack will be glued usually all the way to the bottom and even into the wood grain itself.

Of course all this is for the liquid type Super glue and the gel type will not work well at all.

[LAGS]

If you are ordering other parts from GPC buying the bushing is a good deal.
But you can use a piece of 1/4" I D steel ,brass or Aluminum tubing that has at least a 1/16" wall thickness.
It is only a spacer.

[wyofool]

I'll only get it if I end up buying other things. As you say I can make one from stuff I already have (I think)

[LAGS]

I make the spacers and even Pillars out of Aluminum Rod or Brass Rod or even Steel rods with a 1/4" hole drilled down thru it.
I use 3/8" rod for the spacers , or 1/2" or 5/8" rod for Epoxy in pillars on other rifle models.
Mausers don't need pillars because of their Design.
The rear Spacer is not Required .
But makes it a whole lot easier to set up the bottom metal , and also dissipates the recoil on the rear action screw by greater surface area , to help keep the wrist from cracking.

[243winxb]

Drill holes inside stock to get fresh wood. Inject Acraglas liquid. Not the putty. Rubber bands should hold cracks together.

[contender1]

I see a LOT of excellent advice here. I'll just add a tiny fragment of an idea I learned a long time ago about stock/wood repairs.
Cracks need glue,, and to get the glue in the tiny spaces,, a small bird feather, using the edge can work into the cracks quite nicely. It's thin, strong, and can be used easily.