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Thread: Need Help

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich/WIS View Post
    Have had this problem at times and found that leaving a larger puddle on top of the sprue plate and lightly dropping the mold onto a hardwood block while the puddle was still liquid would cause the problem cavity to fill.
    Thanks for the advice.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master

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    So, have you solved the problem??
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Smith View Post
    So, have you solved the problem??
    I haven't a chance to cast with the mold again yet. Thanks

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    One thing I've noticed that helps with fillout problems is having more of a freefall. I ladle pour, so my description is based on that. If I rest the ladle on top of the mould (not spout to sprue plate) while pouring I get maybe 1/4" freefall. But if I hold the ladle over the mould a bit to get 1/2-3/4 freefall I get better fillout. Especially using wheel weights and little to no tin.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    One thing I've noticed that helps with fillout problems is having more of a freefall. I ladle pour, so my description is based on that. If I rest the ladle on top of the mould (not spout to sprue plate) while pouring I get maybe 1/4" freefall. But if I hold the ladle over the mould a bit to get 1/2-3/4 freefall I get better fillout. Especially using wheel weights and little to no tin.
    Thanks for the advice.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    One thing I've noticed that helps with fillout problems is having more of a freefall. I ladle pour, so my description is based on that. If I rest the ladle on top of the mould (not spout to sprue plate) while pouring I get maybe 1/4" freefall. But if I hold the ladle over the mould a bit to get 1/2-3/4 freefall I get better fillout. Especially using wheel weights and little to no tin.
    Good advice, and a big advantage with a bottom pour pot and a mold rest because you have reasonable consistency in the pour. I noticed this when I purchased my RCBS Pro-Melt a number of years ago.

  7. #27
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    I changed to my homemade version of hardball alloy and got great fill out. The mold makes HP's also so I'll need to figure out a good lead to tin combo for this mold also. Thanks for all the advice.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    If I pressure cast like I describe and run the mould just below frost temperature I get good fillout with wheel weight alloy and no or very minimal tin.

  9. #29
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    I did not see if this is a brass mold.i had the same problems.mostly with brass molds.adding more heat will not help.cleaning the molds seems to make it wors.in fact nothing in general seemed to help me.this was with MP 4 cav hp 38 molds.
    OK my alloy is 2.5%sb 2.5%sn 95%pb.Heat the mold realy well on the hot side on a hot plated.I have a Pid a themometer will work just as well.heat alloy in the casting pot to 740 deg f.Now start casting i found that your timeing has everything to do with the problem.i cast very fast npt time to look at your bullets.no dallying.when i cast with these molds it is cast dump cast dump.it seems to me the temp where the mold likes to be cast is kinda narrow.so the time witch in my case is realy fast is the key to keeping the mold at happy temp.this was with the large HP pins in the mold.Each mold will be different so you may have to play with the temp a bit.And as you cast more time with the new mold it will get better.good luck with the new mold when you put the hp pins in happy to see you have it casting solids.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    If I pressure cast like I describe and run the mould just below frost temperature I get good fillout with wheel weight alloy and no or very minimal tin.
    Thanks

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitch View Post
    I did not see if this is a brass mold.i had the same problems.mostly with brass molds.adding more heat will not help.cleaning the molds seems to make it wors.in fact nothing in general seemed to help me.this was with MP 4 cav hp 38 molds.
    OK my alloy is 2.5%sb 2.5%sn 95%pb.Heat the mold realy well on the hot side on a hot plated.I have a Pid a themometer will work just as well.heat alloy in the casting pot to 740 deg f.Now start casting i found that your timeing has everything to do with the problem.i cast very fast npt time to look at your bullets.no dallying.when i cast with these molds it is cast dump cast dump.it seems to me the temp where the mold likes to be cast is kinda narrow.so the time witch in my case is realy fast is the key to keeping the mold at happy temp.this was with the large HP pins in the mold.Each mold will be different so you may have to play with the temp a bit.And as you cast more time with the new mold it will get better.good luck with the new mold when you put the hp pins in happy to see you have it casting solids.
    Thanks

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy Phlier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boatswainsmate View Post
    I changed to my homemade version of hardball alloy and got great fill out. The mold makes HP's also so I'll need to figure out a good lead to tin combo for this mold also. Thanks for all the advice.
    Good to hear.

    When you say that you changed to a home made version of hardball, does that mean that you used more tin than you did previously?

    Whenever I've had a mold that just refused to fill out properly, even if I did all the things mentioned in this thread, adding additional tin always solved it for me. I have an old (circa 1955) Lyman mold that just won't fill out unless I use at least 5% tin. When my Dad gave me the mold, he had even put a note in it "use 5% tin minimum with this mold." I tried pretty much all of the advice given in this thread on that old mold, and it turns out Dad was right... that mold insists on eating large quantities of tin in order to produce a fully filled out boolit.
    "Things sure are a lot more like the way they are now than they used to be." --Yogi Berra

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phlier View Post
    Good to hear.

    When you say that you changed to a home made version of hardball, does that mean that you used more tin than you did previously?

    Whenever I've had a mold that just refused to fill out properly, even if I did all the things mentioned in this thread, adding additional tin always solved it for me. I have an old (circa 1955) Lyman mold that just won't fill out unless I use at least 5% tin. When my Dad gave me the mold, he had even put a note in it "use 5% tin minimum with this mold." I tried pretty much all of the advice given in this thread on that old mold, and it turns out Dad was right... that mold insists on eating large quantities of tin in order to produce a fully filled out boolit.
    Yes. The alloy I used had more tin and antimony in the mix. This is the first MP mold I have needed to do this. Thanks

  14. #34
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    I use a rowlladle. You see the adds rifle and handloader magazines.Think the company that sells them if I remember right is advanced car movers. Think mine about 2.5" in diameter and hold more lead than your standard ladles. Bought a couple as I plan to start casting 45/70 500 grain bullets for a Pedersoli Sharpe. Alloy is nothing fancy just wheelweights with 2%tin. Frank

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by samari46 View Post
    I use a rowlladle. You see the adds rifle and handloader magazines.Think the company that sells them if I remember right is advanced car movers. Think mine about 2.5" in diameter and hold more lead than your standard ladles. Bought a couple as I plan to start casting 45/70 500 grain bullets for a Pedersoli Sharpe. Alloy is nothing fancy just wheelweights with 2%tin. Frank
    Thanks.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check