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Thread: How to Anneal Brass Cases

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    So, to make sure I understand, brass alloys do not quench harden like iron alloys (steel) and lead alloys (boolit material)? Or is it the temperature range for annealing different from what is needed for quench hardening?

  2. #22
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    Wayne Smith's Avatar
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    Nope, you were right the first time. Brass does not quench harden, it work hardens.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conditor22 View Post
    Have any of you used or built an induction heater electronic module + brass heating coil unit?
    I've built several for myself, family and friends. I'll never go back to a torch, socket and drill.


  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    You are doing something very wrong if you are only getting 4 loadings on a 45-70 shooting black powder.

    I've gone this long in my life and never once needed to anneal a case. That is until recently I needed to form 444 marlin into 309 JDJ and it wouldn't form unless annealed (brand new Starline brass). On non-wildcat cartridges, it's not all that necessary for anything besides the highest of pressure bottle neck cases. Even 6mm Remington, I got 15 loadings before I ditched the brass, never annealed.
    lol...annealing brass is not just to avoid splits. every experienced " hand loader" knows that consistent neck tension is critical to accuracy...a "reloader" doesn't and sees no need to anneal and says what you just did.

  5. #25
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    Back during the shortages of 2007, 2008, 2009 it seems like everyones QC slipped. I was having a high % of new unfired Winchester brass split on the first firing. The brass was fairly inexpensive, if you could find in, but I put a lot of work in it. Trimming, deburring, primer pockets, flash holes, sometimes even neck turning. So I bought a Giraud annealing machine. It works great!

    Before that, I used melted lead to anneal my brass. It also worked well but it was very "hands on".

  6. #26
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    I use a variation on the molten lead. my pot is filled with a very fine silica sand. It has a rack the case are set in and into the sand. Tempering is a temperature vs time for our use the temps need higher and faster to avoid it getting into the head. There are many ways to do this and finding what works for you is the thing.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by McFred View Post
    I've built several for myself, family and friends. I'll never go back to a torch, socket and drill.

    What caliber are you annealing there? They look tiny!

  8. #28
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    I anneal using a spirit lamp/candle and my fingers. Very easy, clean and quiet way to anneal brass while I'm watching the TV with my beloved. Or catching up on shows on netflix. Or hanging out at the cottage with family, or... or... or...

    I'm the guy who always needs something to do with his hands.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by dondiego View Post
    What caliber are you annealing there? They look tiny!
    .223 Rem in the vid. I imagine the vertical perspective makes it look stubby. For a friend, I've annealed .22 Spitwad (.224 Spitfire cut short to 1.150 case length; 30 carbine parent case)

    20-round M1 Carbine magazine:

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by barnabus View Post
    lol...annealing brass is not just to avoid splits. every experienced " hand loader" knows that consistent neck tension is critical to accuracy...a "reloader" doesn't and sees no need to anneal and says what you just did.
    Right... So every real hand loader out there has a fancy annealing machine. Nothing says "accurate" like a guy with a propane torch and a socket.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by McFred View Post
    I've built several for myself, family and friends. I'll never go back to a torch, socket and drill.

    That's pretty cool; I like it. I do have one question though. All the "experts" say that if you get the brass hot enough to glow, it's completely ruined and must be scrapped. I've wondered to what degree that's true. I see some pretty bright, glowing brass in your video. How has that brass been working? I assume that since you've built several it must be shooting OK?

    I've been doing it my own way for years, and it works for me. Threads like this are interesting in that there are many ways of doing things, and I often learn something new.

  12. #32
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    I’ve recently been annealing my .45/70 brass using a length of cleaning rod with a .45cal bronze brush chucked in the mini lathe. I set a propane torch in the right spot and count the time needed. I then pull it off with a gloved hand and put on another. So far it seems to be working well for me.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatelk View Post
    I do have one question though. All the "experts" say that if you get the brass hot enough to glow, it's completely ruined and must be scrapped. I've wondered to what degree that's true. I see some pretty bright, glowing brass in your video. How has that brass been working? I assume that since you've built several it must be shooting OK?
    Haha, there's always that one guy... It's hot for the sake of capturing it on "film." The camera doesn't work nearly as well in the dark, looking for a very faint dull red, and makes for uninteresting videos. So, yes, my video's cooking some scrap/setup brass into oblivion for show.

  14. #34
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    Dimner, I anneal in the flame of a common household candle. I read an article a while back, stated it is the perfect temp. It seems to work too. Randy.

    LINK HERE https://loaddata.com/articles/PDF/Be...cs%2021-LR.pdf
    Last edited by sixgunner452; 01-10-2020 at 11:57 PM. Reason: EDIT

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by McFred View Post
    Haha, there's always that one guy... It's hot for the sake of capturing it on "film." The camera doesn't work nearly as well in the dark, looking for a very faint dull red, and makes for uninteresting videos. So, yes, my video's cooking some scrap/setup brass into oblivion for show.
    OK thanks, that makes sense. I've always been careful to avoid getting the brass hot enough to glow, but have wondered just how critical that really is.

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by sixgunner452 View Post
    Dimner, I anneal in the flame of a common household candle. I read an article a while back, stated it is the perfect temp. It seems to work too. Randy.

    LINK HERE https://loaddata.com/articles/PDF/Be...cs%2021-LR.pdf
    That's the article I read too!! I did start out with a household candle, but the soot made me grumpy. I didn't want to have to tumble again after annealing. So I made a spirit lamp out of a small jar (used to be a relish jar). Drill a string sized hole in the lid. Then off near the edge put another pin sized hole for air flow... fill 1/3 with denatured alcohol, run household cotton twine for a wick and your in business, soot free. No more black fingers!

  17. #37
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    Dimner, I just do as the article says, damp towel to wipe off soot. Low cost, the volume I need to anneal it works. The spirit lamp is a great idea. Randy.
    Last edited by sixgunner452; 01-11-2020 at 01:45 AM. Reason: edit

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by McFred View Post
    Haha, there's always that one guy... It's hot for the sake of capturing it on "film." The camera doesn't work nearly as well in the dark, looking for a very faint dull red, and makes for uninteresting videos. So, yes, my video's cooking some scrap/setup brass into oblivion for show.
    I could see where those fellows who use 9MM and 40S&W brass to form/swage bullets could use this item. You have to completely soften the brass cases in order to swage the lead core and casing into a bullet.

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