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Thread: Standing Boolits Up

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
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    Standing Boolits Up

    I know this has been discussed before, but just wondering if anyone has come up with any new methods. It’s no problem for me with my .45/70 slugs, but almost impossible to stand up 140gn 6.5mm gas check boolits, before one falls over and creates the domino effect. It happens with.30 cal. plane base too, but it’s the most frustrating with the 6.5s.

    I’ve bought several different kinds of silicone pads, but none had any forms that would work for me. I’ve thought of drilling holes in a Teflon cookie sheet. I haven’t yet because I haven’t convinced myself it will work. I don’t like the idea of putting them nose first and ending up with a ring on the nose. The driving bands are at the very base so I can’t set them into anything deeper than the gas check.

    Any ideas or do I just have to stick to Alox for this caliber?

    Thanks for ideas.

  2. #2
    Boolit Bub
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    Well I would imagine you are talking about for baking bullets for powder coating?

    I have had this same dilemma, had this idea but have not done it yet. On a 6.5mm gas checked bullet the base where the gas check goes is .250-.253. Now if you took a piece of bar stock aluminum say 3/4" and drilled holes in it that diameter, then stood the bullets up in that hole if the holes where tight enough I bet they would stand.

    Then after they are done you put gas checks on them and run them thru a sizer.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    There is a sticky thread above on long bullets.

    I cast .30 cal and stand them. I have an Aluminum plate a bit less than 1/8" thick. I have used it two ways. First, as above, holes are drilled to fit the gas check shank area. This works well but the holes need to be really consistent and accurate or bullets will tip and lead on the bottom driving band exposed. Second, I have a plate with holes drilled at full bullet dia. I add gas checks and size bullets then coat and stand up in the plate. These are a little more 'tippy' but it works if I am careful. The thickness of the plate needs to be such that the bottom driving band is not covered by the plated. Also, the plate and pan under it need to be very flat.

    There are some other methods in the sticky thread. Most depends on how accurate you want your bullets to be. Mine are just a bit less than MOA so far.

  4. #4
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    I still just bake in baskets with a single layer of bullets. Small Imperfections only effect the coaters psych not bullets preformance.

    CW
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  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by mebudman63 View Post
    Well I would imagine you are talking about for baking bullets for powder coating?

    I have had this same dilemma, had this idea but have not done it yet. On a 6.5mm gas checked bullet the base where the gas check goes is .250-.253. Now if you took a piece of bar stock aluminum say 3/4" and drilled holes in it that diameter, then stood the bullets up in that hole if the holes where tight enough I bet they would stand.

    Then after they are done you put gas checks on them and run them thru a sizer.
    That’s a good idea, but don’t you think the PCing would stick to the aluminum especially if were a tight fit? That’s why I was thinking of a Teflon cookie sheet. You’re right a 1/4 inch deep hole would be a lot more stable.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use 3/8in silicone ice cube trays for my 38-55 (0.95in OAL) and 44mag cast bullets. Likely too small for larger than 44 cal. The trays handle 400F just fine. Try these:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIBVVL2

    Similar silicone trays are available with 1/4in holes. I use these for 22cal:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BQHC617

    I have used these maybe 15 cycles thus far and the trays still look like new. I highly recommend them.
    Thanks,
    Bill
    Idaho

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    Look great WDR2

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Wheelguns 1961's Avatar
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    I don’t stand up bullets. I use two containers, one empty under a metal collander, and one with the powder and bullets. I dump the full container into the collander. Then give it a shake. The loose powder falls into the empty container. Then, I dump the coated bullets onto a cookie sheet covered with non stick foil. The bullets look great this way, and they do not lead any of my barrels.
    Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I guess it depends on what you are after. If you dump them on a sheet do you get MOA out to 300yd? I am trying to get to 600yd with mine. If someone can show that those flaws due to being cured flat don't matter in those cases I'd be happy to use that method.

    And, yes, the PC does stick to the sheet around the base of the bullet. When punched out the driving bands are still evenly coated.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Wheelguns 1961's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    I guess it depends on what you are after. If you dump them on a sheet do you get MOA out to 300yd? I am trying to get to 600yd with mine. If someone can show that those flaws due to being cured flat don't matter in those cases I'd be happy to use that method.

    And, yes, the PC does stick to the sheet around the base of the bullet. When punched out the driving bands are still evenly coated.
    I am only doing handgun bullets, but I get great accuracy out to over 100yds.
    Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!

  11. #11
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    That’s a good idea, but don’t you think the PCing would stick to the aluminum especially if were a tight fit? That’s why I was thinking of a Teflon cookie sheet. You’re right a 1/4 inch deep hole would be a lot more stable.
    I was thinking of that but what if you dumped the bullets while hot out of the tray in water. (reminds me of the days i used non-stick Aluminum foil before i discovered parchment paper).

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wheelguns 1961 View Post
    I am only doing handgun bullets, but I get great accuracy out to over 100yds.
    Does great accuracy mean <1" at 100yd? If so I will try it. The only pistol I could get 1 MOA out of was a TC Contender.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by mebudman63 View Post
    I was thinking of that but what if you dumped the bullets while hot out of the tray in water. (reminds me of the days i used non-stick Aluminum foil before i discovered parchment paper).
    What are the benefits of parchment paper? Cost?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    I guess it depends on what you are after. If you dump them on a sheet do you get MOA out to 300yd? I am trying to get to 600yd with mine. If someone can show that those flaws due to being cured flat don't matter in those cases I'd be happy to use that method.

    And, yes, the PC does stick to the sheet around the base of the bullet. When punched out the driving bands are still evenly coated.
    Most folks dont shoot cast that far. Let alone expecting MOA @ 300! Thats a single ragged hole about 1/3” @ 100! Im sure you misspoke when you said you are wanting MOA @600!!!!!

    I would tend to agree it likely takes more precision making those bullets.

    I dont expect moa from cast at all. If I need precision Ill shoot jacketed presision. Cast isnt that for me and I suspect for vast majority of shooters using cast. Now this is NOT TO SAY that I have t gotten moa with cast. More so for me its not required.

    CW
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  15. #15
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    I'm with cwlongshot...basket single layer for 30 cal and smaller. I have had nothing but good results using this method.

    Single layer...bake...immediately remove and I shake the basket to avoid them sticking to the basket or each other. I keep shaking until it starts to cool and solidify the coating. Then dump on non-stick foil.

    redhawk

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  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    Yes, I do expect MOA at 300yd. Might be ok with 1.5MOA at 600 but it is more of a wind doping problem than bullet problem. Yes, most folks don't do that. I do.

    MOA at 300yd is a 3.141" group. MOA at 100yd is a 1.047" group. MOA at 600 is a 6.282" group

    With care on my part I routinely get less than that at 100 and 200 yd. And, yes, I have several groups that have been 0.5" at 100yd.

    The left target I was sighting in my plinker load, 8gn of Blue Dot (~1000fps). It is good like this at 200yd as well.

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    Last edited by charlie b; 01-01-2020 at 10:22 AM.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Charlie, well done. Very well done!!!

    Most people PC pistol bullets and accuracy is much less of a concern. "Rough and dirty" techniques will work for the vast majority of users. If I was going to PC rifle bullets I would stand them up and try to get as consistent a coating as possible. Your results show what is achievable with care and good procedures.

    CW, great point! I will not make the effort to get a MOA cast load. Just not required for my needs. The only cast bullets I currently shoot out of rifles are .38/.357. I prefer the advantages of jacketed bullets for hunting. The bulk Hornady 55 gr SP is an economical ($.07/bullet) and effective bullet out of my .223/5.56's.
    Don Verna


  18. #18
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    Nice groups charlie. I see now why you have exacting standards for PCing method.
    Steve,

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  19. #19
    Boolit Master

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    I'm with Charlie. I've got two .308s that will consistently shoot MOA (or better) 5-shot groups at 100 and stay well under 2 MOA at 200 and 300 using PC'd boolits...and, btw, that's with MVs in the 1900-2000 fps bracket. On good days without a lot of wind, my .38-55 Highwall, off the bench, prints under 3 MOA @ 300 with iron sights. Yes, I spend a lot of time culling and prepping my boolits and brass but that's what's required to obtain that kind of accuracy.

    As a sidebar, off sandbags using 175 gr Sierra MKs @ 2720 fps, either of those .308s will put 10 shots into around 1 1/2" @ 200 and my ultimate goal is to equal that with cast.

    Bill
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  20. #20
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    Yes, I do expect MOA at 300yd. Might be ok with 1.5MOA at 600 but it is more of a wind doping problem than bullet problem. Yes, most folks don't do that. I do.

    MOA at 300yd is a 3.141" group. MOA at 100yd is a 1.047" group. MOA at 600 is a 6.282" group

    With care on my part I routinely get less than that at 100 and 200 yd. And, yes, I have several groups that have been 0.5" at 100yd.

    The left target I was sighting in my plinker load, 8gn of Blue Dot (~1000fps). It is good like this at 200yd as well.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I beg to differ Charlie. MOA is minute of angle and its a 100 yard distance.

    If general “MOA” statement is made its assumed its 100 yards. But if someone specified MOA @ X yardage, that 1” is moved to that distance. IE 1” @ 300 and 1” @ 600.

    Sumantics maybe but I need to explain why I posted what I did questioning your definitions.

    Thats is some very impressive accuracy and shooting for sure!

    CW
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check