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Thread: Bore Butter

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Bore Butter is useless for my application. I tote a Hawken ball shooter in cold climate. Sometimes -20 below Plus. Here in my neck of the woods B/P deer season starts the weekend after Thanksgiving. So its plenty cold out. Enough cold to immediately harden any wax based Patch Lube to a frozen carp like texture in tube or tub.
    "JUST A OLD DEPLORABLE THAT'S IRREDEEMABLE."

  2. #22
    Sorry Guys,

    I forgot to mention that I am shooting Sabots.
    I haven't used Bore Butter as a patch lube (or even shot round balls) in years.

    AntiqueSledMan.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Bore butter is great from about 60 to 70 degrees. Above that it turns to water. Below that it turns rock solid.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    Bore butter is great from about 60 to 70 degrees. Above that it turns to water. Below that it turns rock solid.
    I have to agree with you on this point. I avoid shooting all together when the temps go above 90 deg. and below 44.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have went the other way on cleaning my muzzle loaders, whether its BH209 or Pyrodex I don't care I clean just like any center fire rifle with M-Pro 7 bore cleaner and oil. I still use Bore Butter to lube round ball patches which keeps the bore good and clean while shooting. Never saw the need to mess around with water in my barrels when M-Pro 7 cleans the bore up just fine.

  6. #26
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    I wouldn't use bore butter to grease a pig.that stuff has ruined more barrels than I could count.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by barnabus View Post
    I wouldn't use bore butter to grease a pig.that stuff has ruined more barrels than I could count.
    where do you call home?

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by barnabus View Post
    I wouldn't use bore butter to grease a pig.that stuff has ruined more barrels than I could count.
    From my research on lubes the last few days it seems that Bore Butter is Beeswax and olive oil with a little yellow color. Most home brew lubes contain Beeswax, oil, Crisco, and or some type of lard so for a bullet lube it's right in there with the rest of them. I don't think its the best for protecting a barrel from rust and I highly doubt the claims that it seasons a barrel like one would season a cast iron skillet but as a bullet lube it seems to perform well.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master

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    there is no such thing as "seasoning" a steel barrel, that's pure hype.

  10. #30
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    I dont use bore butter on muzzleload long guns, but Bore Buttter mixed with Crisco is a great lube for my 1858 .44 cal cap and ball revolver shooting real BP .lots of fun, huge mess !

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muddydogs View Post
    From my research on lubes the last few days it seems that Bore Butter is Beeswax and olive oil with a little yellow color. Most home brew lubes contain Beeswax, oil, Crisco, and or some type of lard so for a bullet lube it's right in there with the rest of them. I don't think its the best for protecting a barrel from rust and I highly doubt the claims that it seasons a barrel like one would season a cast iron skillet but as a bullet lube it seems to perform well.
    You"d be wrong/Ed

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward View Post
    You"d be wrong/Ed
    About what? What Bore Butter is made of? Rust protection? Barrel seasoning? Good lube? Lots of point to just say your wrong. If you have nothing else to say but your wrong maybe its best to just type nothing since what you typed was kind of a waste of time.

  13. #33
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    I don't like "Bore Butter" either. I think it's useless and just a marketing ploy. Chap stick would probably work better.
    Last edited by Buzzard II; 12-31-2019 at 05:45 PM.
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  14. #34
    Boolit Master



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    From http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-in-bore/page4 post 74 I think.

    Old post quote from an old BP magazine. Note BB, WL and all the rest of the colors were from the same folks. It' a great read. I have not used any since I was told by a barrel maker they had to chisel the **** out of the barrels the warranted do to it.

    I tried the Wonder 1000 theory, and I'd love to see someone
    actually do that. I've watched 5 different guys try it, and the record
    is 8
    shots, same as I got. Of course, another way to look at it is: on any
    given day that I am hunting deer with it and I get off 10 shots and
    don't have a deer to show for it, I probably ought to go home and give
    some serious consideration to what I am doing wrong.

    Tony,

    You have no idea how much humor has come out of Ox-Yoke's claims on the
    1000 Shot Plus lube. To the point where some of us now call them
    Ox-Joke. With any of my three BP rifles "an historic feat" is getting the
    4th ball down the bore without resorting to a bigger hammer.
    I'll run you through the full story since the snow has started to fall.
    Lets go back to the early 1980's.

    A shooter/buckskinner by the name of Young, living in California, went
    to the range one day and forgot his patch lube. In utter desperation he
    whips out a tube of Chap-Stick and smears it on a few patches. Lo &
    Behold it worked better than the lube he had been using. Several of his
    buddies tried his idea and reported it worked well. So Young then
    tracked down the source of Chap- Stick which is a common lip balm
    formulation that has been floating around since the late 19th century.
    Chap-Stick is petrolatum (petroleum jelly) with 5% cetyl alcohol and
    water. The cetyl alcohol acting as the emulsifyer. With the cetyl
    alcohol the water forms minute beads within the petrolatum. Without the
    cetyl alcohol you can't get the water to mix in any way with the
    petrolatum. Huge quantities of cetyl alcohol are used in the production
    of PVC emulsion resins used in kitchen flooring. (My old job was as an
    R&D
    Tech. on these resins.) The petrolatum is the moisture barrier and
    carrier for a topical agent used to soothe chapped lips. The water
    emulsified into the petrolatum reduces the drag of the "stick" when you
    apply it to your lips and acts as the moisturizing agent. Young then
    finds a place to buy Chap-Stick in bulk and packages it as Young Country
    Arms 103 Lube. That his lube and Chap->Stick are identical in every
    respect, right down to the color, suggested he simply bought from the
    makers of Chap-Stick in bulk quantities. Now Ted Bottomly had started
    Ox-Yoke and made pre-cut patches and packs of patch cloth. He wanted a
    patch lube to round out his line. He bought the first Ox-Yoke lube from
    Young. When I first saw them I was at the late C.P. Wood's house in West
    Virginia. Woody was looking at a 4 ounce container
    of Young Country 103 and a 3 ounce container of Ox-Yoke's patch lube.
    Both were identical in every respect, including color. You paid the same
    price for 3 ounces of Ox-Yoke's lube as you paid for 4 ounces of Young's
    lube. The logical conclusion would be that Ox-Yoke was buying from Young
    and the missing ounce was Ox-Yoke's profit on the deal.

    Both were advertising their respective lubes in the magazines. Young
    advertised that you could fire a hundred rounds without wiping the bore
    with his lube. Three months later, Ox-Yoke would advertise that when you
    used their lube you could fire 200 rounds without wiping the bore. The 3
    month lag time in the mags being the lag time in getting adds scheduled.
    This went on, each one upping the ante, so to speak.
    Those of us connected with the Buckskin Report discussed this in letters
    and thought it a great joke.

    The others in the field at that time were Hodgdon with their "Spit-Patch"
    which was nothing more than beeswax emulsified in water with a soap.
    Then there was T/C Maxi-Lube which was nothing more than the same
    petroleum grease they used to grease the bearings in their machines.
    Blue and Grey products was selling an automotive wheel bearing grease
    that had been pigmented, not dyed, blue. I receieved several letters from
    Doc Carlson. He was seeing BP muzzleloaders come into his shop with
    balls or slugs stuck in the bore just ahead of the powder charge. You
    could not pull these projectiles by any normal method.
    He would have to remove the breech plugs, pull the charge and beat them
    out of the bore, toward the muzzle with a heavy rod and a hammer. He
    described the presence of a black tar-like film in the bore where the
    projectiles had been frozen in place. The common thread in this being
    that the shooter had used one of the "petroleum-based" lubes. I had to
    explain to Doc that the petroleum greases were nothing more than
    petroleum lubricating oils that had been "bodied" by the addition of
    metallic soaps such as calcium or cadmium stearate. With a petroleum
    lubricating oil, or grease, anytime you heat them to a high temperature
    in the presence of sulfur you get asphalt. The way asphalts were
    produced was to take crude oil and sulfur in an autoclave. Heat the
    mixture to 600 degrees for about 8 hours
    and you had road tar. Which is about what was happening in the gun.
    Since the repackaged Chap-Stick was a petroleum wax it did not form
    asphalt with sulfur and high temperatures. I then wrote an article for
    the Backwoodsman magazine and compared the behavior of the two Chap-Stick
    lubes to the behavior of sperm whale oil when it had been used in black
    powder guns.

    Well, Old Ted Bottomly jumped right onto that one. three months later
    he starts advertising that his lube is "all-natural, non-petroleum" and
    authentic, using what our ancesters had used. At that point I figured
    his parents were to Christian to call him ******* so they settled for
    Bottomly. By about 1984, Bottomly and Young had a falling out over
    pricing. The one ounce shy thing with Ox-Yoke pushed most of the
    customers to Young's lube. Same thing, same price but more of it with
    Young Country 103. And by this time we were up to 800 rounds between
    swabbings. Technology marches on. Bottomy came out with his first Wonder
    Lube. Years of research went into this lube, or so he claimed. Now at
    this time Ox-Yoke was located in West Suffield, CT. A short time later I
    was searching the drugstore shelves looking for petrolatum-based skin
    care products or salves that I coulde repackage and become a millionaire
    . I spotted this tube of something
    called "Mineral Ice". Menthol in petrolatum. Made by a Dermatone
    Laboratories located in Suffield, CT. Out comes the map. just by a
    mere coincidence both companies were located just across the river from
    each other. This of course raised doubts as to the "years of research"
    comments out of Bottomly. The new Wonder Lube went into the lab. Proved
    to be mineral oil, paraffin wax, a yellow dye and oil of wintergreen. A
    book at work on fats, waxes and oils nailed this one down to a common
    chest rub preparation for those with head colds who could not tolerate
    camphorated oil. Again it was billed as "all-natural and non-petroleum".
    Never mind that paraffin wax comes from paraffinic crude oils and mineral
    oil comes from napthenic crude oils, the yellow dye and the oil of
    wintergreen should convince anybody that it is all-natural and
    non-petroleum. Given the wax and oil, I simply refer to this type of lube
    as a remanufactured vaseline. With the yellow dye the rubes will swear
    it is beeswax.

    One thing about con artists is that they are never content to leave a
    con artest for any length of time. In 1990, Bottomly comes out with a
    new version called 1000 Shot Plus lube. High-technology now made
    possible a lube that eliminated fouling, eliminated the need to clean and
    would totally stop bore corrosion. Bottomly searched the world for this
    modern technology and found it in Germany after years of searching. This
    advance in this lube was made possible by this
    secret micronizing agent. It gave the lube a micron particle size that
    made all of this advancement possible. At that point his chest thumping
    ego trip gave away the formula. This secret micronizing agent is no real
    secret and has been around for over 100 years. It is nothing more than a
    fossil wax mined in Germany. The same time of wax used to be mined in
    Utah as Utah Wax but the mine closed for lack of business.
    Paraffin wax is a hard brittle wax that forms huge crystals. When you
    look at a block of paraffin wax sold for food canning you see lines on
    the surface of the blocks of wax. Those are the lines denoting crystal
    size. It had been found that if you added this fossil wax to paraffin
    wax it would reduce the size of these crystals, though nowhere near a
    micron in size. Paraffin wax was limited in which skin care and salve
    formulations it could be used in because of the macro-crystallinty of it.
    This made it unsuited to preparations where hardness and brittleness
    were objectionable. By using the fossiol wax addition the paraffin wax
    could replace more expensive waxes in these products. But when you lay
    this type of Techno-Nonsense on a bunch of ignorant rube BP shooters they
    will beat a path to your door, wallet in hand.

    Now, to get back to an historic feat of 3 shots without swabbing the
    bore. The problem with this type of lube is that as long as the surface
    temperature of the bore is above the melting point of the wax, about 40
    to 45 C, the fouling deposited by the combustion of the powder will slide
    off the metal when pressure is applied to it. When the surface
    temperature of the bore is below the melting point of the wax it will act
    as an adhesive and hold the fouling to the surface. The unburned
    charcaol in the powder fouling will adsorb most of the mineral oil
    present in the lube. This turns it into an oily sludge that simply
    builds up in the breech with repeated loading of the gun. After a few
    rounds are fired in a flinter you have the oily sludge being blown out of
    the vent which then coats the flint and frizzen. Lubricated flints
    strike no sparks.
    Now for the real punch line. With the addition of the micronizing agent
    they doubled the amount of dye used so the new lube was more orange in
    color, compared to the lemon yellow of the previous version, and they
    doubled the amount of oil of wintergreen. Convince the rubes that it is
    now even more natural. During the past few years there has been much
    ******** about the quality of Ox-Joke's pre-lubed patches. I have seen
    packs in the store where the lube had turned hard and brown. The mineral
    oil migrates out of the paraffin wax into the low density polyethlene
    used in the bags. This makes the lube hard and brittle. It goes back to
    paraffin wax properties. With these an historic feat is getting the
    second ball down the barrel without wiping. Ox-Joke supplies T/C with
    Bore Butter which is only a slight modification
    of Ox-Joke's standard formula.

    Remember the dbate about blowing down the barrel on the message boards.
    My off line joke was that as long as you use the repackaged Chap-Stick as
    a patch lube you would not get chapped lips from blowing down a cold
    barrel.

    Then their was Uncle Mike's Apple Green patch lube. Another paraffin
    wax/mineral oil lube with methylsalicin in it. Nothing more than a
    repackaged arthritis salve. I can tell you that is was very effective on
    a knee suffereing degenerative joint disease. So if you are going to go
    out in those North Woods in winter weather to hunt the elusive whitetail
    you ought to take all three lubes along. Prevent chapped lips, take care
    of chest colds and arthritic joints from all of the hoofing through the
    snow. No reason for you to return home in anything less than the best of
    health in spite ot the weather. Might be a good idea to take along one of
    the ascorbic acid-based powders since that is vitamin C. Then Goex's
    sugar-based powder might make an emergency trail food.

    I joke with Dixon that it is bad enough we have to deal with the ATF,
    what next with these products, the Food and Drug Administration too???
    Well, time to go sit out on the deck for a smoke and listen to the snow
    flakes fall.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master

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    geez, don't we love to complicate what should be -and is- simple?

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
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    I have only used lube on my over powder wads. I tested both hornady great plains lube and bore butter. I only put enough lube on them to keep the wad from catching fire. The claims that bore butter got hard, yes it does. So did the hornady lube. I actually like that with my over powder wads. It makes them stiff. The wads i use are oversized. The hard lube makes it easier for me when I load them.
    Any claims of seasoning or barrel protection are in my opinion, are false.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master


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    So what do I use on My Maxi-Balls ?

    I'm still gonna use Crisco on My Cap & Ball Revolvers ?
    I HATE auto-correct


    Happiness is a Warm GUN & more ammo to shoot in it.

    My Experience and My Opinion, are just that, Mine.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walks View Post
    So what do I use on My Maxi-Balls ?

    I'm still gonna use Crisco on My Cap & Ball Revolvers ?
    Walks................. i use bore butter on my t/c maxi-balls. have the applicator jig, that t/c put out. it is the same consistancy as crisco. I shot this group a few years ago using of all things......... Pyrodex RS. I swab between every shot. always have. The pyrodex residue does get crunchy, But I can live with that. If it gets bad, i use a bronze bore brush dry to break it down. but as you can see ,, the effort paid off.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    This spring, I will repeat this drill, but switch to real black powder. Give it an unbiased equal chance. BTW, Dear old Jonathan (Frontiermuzzleloading), posted the same article on one of his threads. pitching the sales of his wonderlube he (SUPPOSEDLY)developed. BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. He probably Bought a 55 gal. drum of chapstick too. He flat refused to send me an MSDS for allergy research. I want to try this "how many shots " thing too. Who is up for some fun?

  20. #40
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muddydogs View Post
    About what? What Bore Butter is made of? Rust protection? Barrel seasoning? Good lube? Lots of point to just say your wrong. If you have nothing else to say but your wrong maybe its best to just type nothing since what you typed was kind of a waste of time.
    You just listed whats wrong ,before getting panties in a bunch utilize the search engine in the top right of this forum . Try doing the work ,I have for years/Ed

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check