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Thread: Bore Butter

  1. #1

    Bore Butter

    Who uses it and how do you dry your barrel before using?

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  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    why do you feel the need for "bore butter"?

    what kind of gun and its ignition system, what is the make up of yer loads, what's the prime use for yer gun?

  3. #3
    I shoot a Percussion rifle and shoot balls and bullets lubed with Bore butter. Really like the idea of using all natural products in my muzzleloaders.

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  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy TheOutlawKid's Avatar
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    Hate it. Canr stand it. Especially when mixed with pyrodex. It works for some people, but not for me.

  5. #5
    What do you all use to prevent rust in your rifles? How do you remove from barrel before shooting?

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  6. #6
    Boolit Master RU shooter's Avatar
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    I'm also in the hate it camp . There's quite a few better allnatural lubes I'd use before bore butter , don't under stand what your asking about drying your barrel before using it ?
    If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!

  7. #7
    After cleaning I want to make sure all the water is out of my barrel before coating in Bore Butter. That is what I'm asking. Do you use very hot water so that it evaporates fast? I have heard that this causes flash rusting.

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  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    It sounds like your coating your barrel with bore butter for storage, if that is the case, I would just run a dry patch down it then fire off a couple of caps to make sure the flash hole is open be for loading.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    it is critical to have the bore 100% dry before applying bore butter. a super hot barrel will dryout any moisture in the bore, and yes it does flash rust using hot water. I am finding more people despise pyrodex seem to live in very humid climates. The humidity accelerates the corrosion that the residue seems to create.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master RU shooter's Avatar
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    After cleaning with water run a patch or two down the bore with WD 40 followed with a dry patch and then you can use the bore butter if you want but a simple oil like 3:1 oil is all that's really needed. Just the water out of the bore is most important thing before youtreat it with an oil or preservative
    If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!

  11. #11
    Boolit Bub
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    I run alcohol patches followed by dry patch then lube with oil, get ready shoot run dry patch pop couple caps then load n good to go.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master trails4u's Avatar
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    I inherited bore butter with my first percussion rifle..... Used it, and seemed ok...but for any kind of storage I can't recommend it. Many years have passed...and it's ballistol for me.
    "Do not follow where the path might lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail" Ralph Waldo Emerson

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy


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    Don't use it for storage. But do use it for maxi ball lube. Spit for patched round ball.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    this all comes down to personal beliefs about how traditional side lock muzzleloaders, whether flint or cap ignition systems, should be both cleaned and loaded.

    if yer using "substitute black powder", which IS a smokeless powder, i have no comments, yer on yer own with that junk.

    when using real black powder i long ago realized that ease of cleaning means dealing with fouling immediately after the last shot of the day is taken. the longer one waits, the more the bp residue will harden, be more difficult to remove, will be easier to make a good barrel not so good with its corrosive effects.

    some sloppy "moose milk" or wd40 patches down the bore, with the last wet patch and rod left in the tube, and generous spritzing of the lock keep the bp soft until yer back home and do a proper, and super fast, cleaning. the reason for the water soluble oil or wd40 is to prevent rust/corrosion during the interim before proper cleaning.

    "proper cleaning" of a trad muzzy means to me using plain tepid tap water. some folks with home water softener systems are concerned over salt issues (not me) and if so, use bottle water. hot or warm water not needed. this takes me 3 to 4 patches down the tube until the last comes out "reasonably" clean. don't expect it to be "perfectly clean", that's a myth and a waste of time trying to achieve. a patch wet with any gun oil goes down and out the tube, a spare jagged rod and patch wet with that oil goes down the tube and stays there. this renders a barrel that will always be the best it can be, for me.

    while the barrel is being worked on, the lock is removed, as is the flint of a flintlock, and left in a pail/bowel of, yep, tepid tap water. let it soak good whilst ya work on the tube. when the tube's done, pull out the lock and scrub with a toothbrush, rinse, shake and pat off the excess water, spritz or wipe down the entire lock with an oily rag. pivot points can sometimes get a tiny drop of oil. put the lock back. done.

    IF the barrel and lock have been neglected, and proper maintenance was never really accomplished, it's a good bet that tap water ain't gonna do the job it should and toxic chemicals along with a bunch of elbow grease will be needed to get an infected barrel and lock back to proper working condition. but from that point on, if the gun is as well cared for as in above, cleaning is silly easy. no need for "bore butter" or any other trad muzzy commercial nonsense.

    what goes hand-in-hand with the above is also how well the projectile is lubed - meaning patching for balls, grease for bullets, and lube for shot wads. good lube helps with fouling control, or the need to not hafta employ fouling control between shots.

  15. #15
    Hello gesthuntn,

    I use TC Bore Butter and have for years, about 40.
    I have a hooked breech system,
    First I remove barrel, clean-out screw, and the nipple.
    Second I set breech end in a bucket of as hot as I can stand water with Dreft Baby Soap
    & push a soaked patch through, then I pump the soapy water through the barrel for a while.
    The barrel will get hot and the soapy water will run down the outside of the barrel.
    Third I rinse out the bucket and put in clear hot water, then repeat the process again.
    Fourth I will set barrel in the basement sink, place a small funnel in the muzzle and pour more hot water through.
    Fifth I will run a dry patch through the barrel then set it against the wall muzzle down to dry.
    Sixth after 1/2 hour I will run an alcohol patch through and let it stand again.
    Seventh I will run a patch full of Bore Butter through the barrel and wipe it on the outside as well.
    Eighth I will reinstall the barrel, nipple, and clean-out screw.
    Now when I want to load it again, I run an alcohol patch through the barrel, followed by a few caps.
    No hang or misfires, just boom.
    Some will disagree, but it's what I do, been working for 40 years.

    AntiqueSledMan.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I do the same as Sled Man...............except for the alcohol saturated patch, for near as many years. I just run a couple of dry patches.

    Winelover

  17. #17
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    I used it on my inlines for years. I clean the bore with moose milk or hot water and detergent. Then use tight dry patches. I then use a HF heat gun to heat up the barrel from the inside and outside. Then the bore buttered patches. The butter melts into the lands and grooves. That said, I am going to try Ballistol next season. I shoot 777.

  18. #18
    Boolit Bub
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    I use nothing but PURE NEATSFOOT OIL, never a problem with fouling or cleaning or rusting.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master pietro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gesthuntn View Post

    After cleaning I want to make sure all the water is out of my barrel before coating in Bore Butter.

    That is what I'm asking.

    Do you use very hot water so that it evaporates fast ?
    I can only state my experience with Bore Butter.

    Since I started using Bore Butter 1000+ when it was first introduced around 1985, the only thing I've used hot water on guns for is to flush out percussion nipples after I removed them from the gun.



    I've used Bore Butter for both flint & cap lock guns since then (35 years ago) successfully, with never an instance of rust and/or poor accuracy.




    I've found that the best way for me to use BB is to initially clean the bore of all fouling & water preparatory to seasoning the bore - then heat the barrel before applying a liberal coating of BB, letting everything cool & dry.

    I then clear of most of that initial coating of BB from the bore with a clean patch, then wipe down the exterior metal with the clearing patch - and leave it until the next time I load/shoot the gun.

    Going forward, after every firing session/day, I wet & swab the bore clean with a patch liberally soaked in Moose Milk (T/C #10 Bore Cleaner), followed by multiple passes with clean patches to dry the bore.

    I then use a single patch lightly coated with BB rubbed into it to re-coat the bore, leaving the BB in there until the next loading/firing.

    The last things I routinely do is to clean & re-install the nipple before wiping down all exterior metal with a light coating of BB.



    These are some of the guns I've had & treated as above since 1985



    .
    Experience is a wonderful thing - It lets you recognize a mistake, when you make it again.

  20. #20
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

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    If you shoot in cold weather, you will hate it on about the third shot when your patch and ball are stuck tight halfway down the bore when loading.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check