Need help ID’ing this slug mold

[Blood Trail]

This mold throws a .724” projectile. It’s a hollow point mold.

Anyone sent this one before?




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[pipehand]

Whatever it is, it looks like it takes a screw drom the front to a wad column. Like that one russian slug. There is a nice shoulder to roll crimp to.

[Markopolo]

hey BT... why dont you cast some with it and lets take another look... somebody musta seen it before..

marko

[Blood Trail]

hey BT... why dont you cast some with it and lets take another look... somebody musta seen it before..

marko

It’s on its way to me.


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[bikerbeans]

Load it upside down and you have a nice HBWC.

BB

[Pressman]

That's a treasure. A Yankee mould from the 1930's. Yankee Specialty Company. They made a nice line of moulds and a quirky little bench mounted reloader.
I don't have any other history on them, yet.

[Blood Trail]

That's a treasure. A Yankee mould from the 1930's. Yankee Specialty Company. They made a nice line of moulds and a quirky little bench mounted reloader.
I don't have any other history on them, yet.

Thank you! I’d knew someone had some info.


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[longbow]

I am with pipehand on the screw for attaching wad but I wonder if the screw is from the base like a Brenneke so full wadcutter slug with screw on wad.

I've made push out moulds like that though I use a nose form so not full wad cutter but screw in from the base and with "shoulder" in some cases, like for my copper tubing skirted slug. So I am thinking a wad with screw hole and a recess for the small diameter.

If it is an HP mould it would likely have been for a bore gun because shotguns didn't have rifling back when that mould was made. But it certainly isn't a traditional form of bore gun boolit and no lube grooves. Also odd that an HP cavity would go right through... looks like the pin is about flush with bottom of sprue plate.

So, I am guessing.

Longbow

[beagle]

2nd on the Yankee. You can tell by the handles with the finely twisted wire. Bronze or brass. Never saw a shotgun mould but I've had a pistol mould and a clone of the Lyman 311413 Squib design. Some of the better casting moulds I've ever cast with. You got a gem there and a piece of history./beagle

That's a treasure. A Yankee mould from the 1930's. Yankee Specialty Company. They made a nice line of moulds and a quirky little bench mounted reloader.
I don't have any other history on them, yet.

[Markopolo]

wow... be sure to post when you get it sir

[Blood Trail]

Cast about 10 of these slugs real quick. The weight is the most consistent I’ve seen weighing in at 502.2 grs +/-.1 gr.

I’ll build these slugs like Brenneke’s




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[Markopolo]

wow... strange looking thing... wonder how it might shoot... keep us in the loop on this one

[Blood Trail]

wow... strange looking thing... wonder how it might shoot... keep us in the loop on this one

Oh, it’s ugly as sin, no doubt about it.


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[W.R.Buchanan]

Looks like a Semi Wadcutter to me. Probably will work just fine. be good for paper target practice. Nice round holes.

Randy

[longbow]

Looks interesting!

Do you have a knurler? Just thinking that knurling up from 0.724" to 0.730" would make for better fit to bore and you could also tumble lube. I've found that slugs even a thou or two under bore diameter don't shoot as well as those that are bore diameter or larger. Got to be careful with a solid slug though as it won't squeeze down as easily as a ribbed or HB slug with thin(ish) skirt.

Is that a waxed card wad you show in the "assembled" pic? My waxed card wad Brenneke's didn't work well. The waxed card deformed and distorted. I think you'd be better off with felt wads.

If it fits the bore and has a good wad there is no reason it shouldn't shoot as well as "fancier" slugs.

Will be watching with interest.

Longbow

And... Happy New Year to all!

[Blood Trail]

Looks interesting!

Do you have a knurler? Just thinking that knurling up from 0.724" to 0.730" would make for better fit to bore and you could also tumble lube. I've found that slugs even a thou or two under bore diameter don't shoot as well as those that are bore diameter or larger. Got to be careful with a solid slug though as it won't squeeze down as easily as a ribbed or HB slug with thin(ish) skirt.

Is that a waxed card wad you show in the "assembled" pic? My waxed card wad Brenneke's didn't work well. The waxed card deformed and distorted. I think you'd be better off with felt wads.

If it fits the bore and has a good wad there is no reason it shouldn't shoot as well as "fancier" slugs.

Will be watching with interest.

Longbow

And... Happy New Year to all!

LB,

I’ve heard you mentioned a knurler before. Honestly, I don’t know what it is or how to obtain one.

And that’s notable assembled pic. Just trying to get an idea of the overall pic. I plan on building it using - waxed hard card sandwiched in between two thick 12 ga nitro cards like the Brenneke’s.

I have a couple thousand of the old Alcan Blue Streaks where the wad is attached to the gas seal. Might give those a shot.


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[longbow]

I made my own knurling tool but they are available through Corbin:

http://www.corbins.com/hct-2.htm

Here is a homemade version:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-knurling-tool

Mine is more like the Corbin tool but not as fancy.

I get a diameter increase of over 0.003" on .30 cal. boolits and when I knurled my TC HB 12 ga. slugs that cast at 0.729" they grew to 0.736" or so then I sized back to 0.733" to suit by single shot bore.

So, the benefits basically are that you can knurl a smooth boolit/slug so it holds lube and also to increase diameter. I was (and still am) making smooth 0.316" diameter boolits from a push out mould for my .303's and I just tumble lube those which works pretty well but I wanted to have a "better" way of holding lube. Since I am not making split block moulds I can't make lube grooves so making the mould a bit undersize then knurling I get the diameter I want plus a textured surface to hold lube. Works for shotgun slugs too.

As for wads, it won't hurt to try hard card/nitro card wads but as I mentioned, any time I have used hard card and/or nitro card wads for Brenneke style slugs the card layers have separated and looked pretty ragged. Of course I can't prove the distortion came from firing or at impact but since accuracy was not as good as with other wad materials I am assuming the card wads distorted at firing. I'd recommend using hard felt wads and polyethylene discs, or maybe hard leather discs, on each side of the felt. I don't think nitro card wads will maintain their integrity... or they certainly didn't for me. Actually with those flat based slugs you should only need a thin hard disc under the last felt or card wad.

Another option is to screw on plastic wads like you are doing with the Russian slugs.

Just my 2 cents worth. Still watching.

Longbow