I use Sherwin Williams Aircraft and Boat stripper for removing finishes. You can also soak them in lacquer thinner to float out oil finishes.
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I use Sherwin Williams Aircraft and Boat stripper for removing finishes. You can also soak them in lacquer thinner to float out oil finishes.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
The Finish remover is a good idea , and works great.
But I first try to get the old dirt and oil out First , before I try and Strip the old Finish.
Some guns look better , and retain their value if the oil is removed , and any of the original Finish is kept in the Old Condition.
There is a big difference in the value if a rifle is Salvaged , or Refinished.
White vinegar with a little heat from a hair dryer will also bring the oil to the surface. It will probably take several applications. The Vinegar is easier to get than the other solvents and probably safer to use as well.
Good Luck with your rifle!
Rick
I used a sponge and a rag to rub thinner on the wood. Alot of oil came out but its still dark. Theres barely a difference, but its noticeable if you look. Would it be good to just let it soak in thinner in a container or can that damage the wood?
Just keep in mind that acetone is extremely volatile and fumes/vapors are highly explosive. As bad as, maybe even worse than gasoline. Outdoors use only!
Ya, I used thinner this time. Would it be better to submerge it in thinner? or just rub?Originally Posted by rondog
On that rifle, I probably wouldn't have used anything stronger than mineral spirits, which is a mild paint thinner.....and just rub it. Better to go a little at a time than too much at once.
Just my opinion...but none of the above. It's a great looking rifle just like it is, and all its life if what's left in its current finish. I have many old rifles....most of which the wood looks similar to yours. I wouldn't even think of trying to 'fix' them in any way....other than any necessary mechanical repair to make/maintain them as shootable. Again, just my opinion...but anything more feels to me like erasing a bit of history.
"Do not follow where the path might lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail" Ralph Waldo Emerson
I rubbed it abit, not alot happened.
Before:
Process:
After:
If you choose to use thinner , then Rub it on and wipe it off.
Don't Soak it in thinner or even any liquid.
You will never get Everything Out.
But you can make a big difference to the look and feel of the wood.
I too am for trying to leave Some Stocks in their original condition.
But there is a point where the stocks are so dirty and sticky that they are uncomfortable to shoot.
But you ain't going to make it brand new again , and will probably do more damage if you try to get all the oil and dirt out
Thank you, I didn't make that clear.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
I wont soak anything then. Il leave it how it is. You can see a small difference.
anybody use the "stick it in a garbage bag full of kitty litter/fuller's earth/mechanic's oil dry, and set it in the sun for a few days" trick?
I have used the Oil Absorbed method.
It works , especially in the heat we have here in Arizona.
But a heat gun method is faster and more controllable.
But if you have stocks and plenty of time the Oil Absorbed or Kitty Litter method works great.
For general stock cleaning I use mineral spirits. If I am going to refinish I submerge them in MEK. It will remover everything including epoxy bedding.
For matching the original Winchester finish this is the best I have found. http://homesteadparts.com/shopcart/pid_1782.htm eBay has it also
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-Walnut-finish
For really dirty oily stocks I follow this method.
https://www.doublegunshop.com/forums...&Number=314339
It is absolutely true that deeply oiled stocks will have residual oil rise to the surface again in time. I've de-oiled some stocks in order to do refinishing or repairs, and then set them aside for 5-6 months and found I had to de-oil again in order to be sure that glue, epoxy, or finish would not be compromised. I always start with household ammonia because ammonia will saponify oils, and the resulting soap is water soluble. Follow this with a wash with detergent or TSP and rinse and dry. This inexpensive first step gets a lot of the surface oil and grime and makes the much more expensive solvents like acetone, lacquer thinner, etc. last a lot longer before becoming too contaminated and dirty. Dirty solvent becomes a stain you probably don't want. The low oven treatment with the wood wrapped in paper towels also gets a lot of oil out before resorting to costly solvents. I've even put oily wood in a box of cat litter (not used) and put the whole works in the cab of my truck in the summer to use solar heating. I've read that corn meal also works well. Just try to keep the temperature below 160 degrees. I tried the microwave oven heating method once and had a forearm split from too rapid heating. Fortunately, after de-oiling, Titebond II made a virtually invisible repair.
Last edited by M-Tecs; 01-01-2020 at 03:28 AM.
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"Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
– Amber Veal
"The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
- Wayne Dyer
If the old finish was oil or varnish, I have done a deep cleaning many times by running the stock thru a dishwasher set as hot as it will go, and using straight TSP in the dispenser. The lazy man's way of doing the old time gunsmiths' method of boiling in a tank of Oakite. As the wood exits the dishwasher, it is super clean and will be dry enough to start with a new finish in about a week. Less if you can leave it on top of a heating vent in winter.
As stated, solvents never get the wood really clean, they just dilute the dirt and old oil.
Cognitive Dissident
See my post above. Oughta work great. Takes heat to really loosen up the dirt and old oil.
Cognitive Dissident
No thanks! I think dishwashers are for dishes.
Charter Member #148
Sorry but I agree with trails. I would never mess with an old beauty like that unless it was beyond use. Not even talking about the effect on resale value.That said, it’s your gun to do as you see fit.
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