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Thread: 30-06 not going all the way in...

  1. #21
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    From the OP, "......I don't have my press mounted permanently yet and since I'm still using my coffee table for a work bench I don't want to put a ton of force on my press (I don't want to damage the table). "

    We don't know HOW the OP is using his coffee table for a bench. (C-clamps, Bolted to a board and that C-clamped to the coffee table, No C-clamps at all, Chewing gum?????)

    Nor do we know what constitutes "a lot of force...." in the mind of the OP.

    Let's start with how is the press mounted and can it be mounted to a better surface?

  2. #22
    Boolit Bub Andyt591's Avatar
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    I was able to resolve my issue. It was the fact that I don't have my press secured yet.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Great to hear you found the problem

  4. #24
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    Try some imperial wax when you get a chance .

  5. #25
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    As in post #10, since you have so much difficulty getting the case sized, do remove the deprime spindle. Then if you have a stuck case you can hopefully drive the case out of the die with a rod and hammer. "Free" brass can be more costly than knowing the history of once fired brass. If you have not already done so, carefully inspect the case rims for signs of distortion or other marring of the case body. Also look to see if the primers show damage. That might indicate excessive pressure and the reason for them being discarded. Sizing until resistance is met and then a little and then back out turn the case and go a little further is a good suggestion. Verify the presence of a little lube as you do this.

    Do you apply lube to just the neck, or the entire case? The case is tapered so eventually you are forcing the entire case into the die at one time so more force is needed.

    Edit: Took too long typing.

  6. #26
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    Lots of good lubes out there. I like Castor oil for making things go easy. ( it will however kill a primer if you leave any in the case ) . Do try not to force the case in with too much pressure because if they get stuck that is a whole new challenge for you to get it out. One thing I did when I was starting out was get one of those Lyman sizers that have no threads on them, you use a vice or arbor press to apply pressure. I used a big bench vice and it applied a nice checkered pattern on the base of cases put through that treatment, so I knew that they had been sized. Any way lube is still necessary to prevent you from getting into a real struggle.
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  7. #27
    Boolit Bub Andyt591's Avatar
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    Lots of great advice here, guys. I greatly appreciate it!

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by frkelly74 View Post
    Lots of good lubes out there. I like Castor oil for making things go easy. . . . .
    I definitely do not like Castor oil! My mother used to give that to me when I was a kid to cure me of everything! And it tasted really bad! So it can't possibly be any good for lubricating cases either, just because. I will Not have that in my house!

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonMountain View Post
    I definitely do not like Castor oil! My mother used to give that to me when I was a kid to cure me of everything! And it tasted really bad! So it can't possibly be any good for lubricating cases either, just because. I will Not have that in my house!
    SAME HERE! Have used most everything over the years and have found Imperial sizing wax to be the BEST.

  10. #30
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    Honestly guys,

    I quit buying Lee reloading dies after having too many problems with stuck shells due to internal die problems. It seems like I ran through a several in a row which appear to he completely lacking their final internal reaming/grinding to final size.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyt591 View Post
    Lots of great advice here, guys. I greatly appreciate it!
    I do know they were 1x fired brass from my cousins Ruger Bolt Action
    I too use Imperial Sizing Wax for my sizing

  12. #32
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    I was resizing a bunch of 303 British that had been fired in Machine guns... WWII surplus .
    Big heavy duty Pacific press , securely mounted to heavy bench sized in stages , deeper increments , not all in one pass (like post #18 ) and had to use STP oil treatment as a case lube . Made sure cases were lubed at every sizing step . If it goes in the sizing die hard ... it's going to be a bear to pull out... you don't want the rim to pull off .
    Use a good shell holder RCBS , Redding or CH4D...DO NOT use a Lee shell holder !
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  13. #33
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    When I first start loading it was with a RCBS junior press and for 30-30 I had no issues with it bolted to a old mail sorting table The next year I bout a 30-06 and had been saving once fired brass mostly military . I quickly ran into the same problem you did and split the table I forget what I reinforced that first reloading bench with The bench I have today has a 1/2" thick aluminum plate for the top ! I use it to swage also and have several presses mounted to it .
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  14. #34
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    I use my mom's old kitchen table for a bench, it's heavier construction than many coffee tables, I have bolted all my presses to 2X6 boards and then C- clamp the boards to my bench. I have one hand press that is not included here. I normally use Lee case sizing lube, but on difficult cases I use Imperial sizing wax, it works great. You can also make a heavy duty portable bench from 2X lumber, it only needs to be big enough to hold you press and have good bracing.
    I have encountered some 30-06 that takes a longer slow, steady stroke on my press.

  15. #35
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    The Lyman Unique formula is superior to Imperial Die Sizing on a day to day basis.

    The Unique lube is easier to administer the truly small amounts of lube that it takes to properly lube cases that the Imperial was. You get much more product with the Lyman tub for the money and it lasts much longer per ounce and because it is a harder formula each ounce goes farther.

    I can not measure the relative lubricity between these two lubes but in actually using them I call it a draw or just irrelevant. The advantage with the Unique lube beyond economy is that you have a better chance in not over applying it compared to Imperial.

    This is an observation over an extended time using a plenty of both products.

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  16. #36
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    I don't have my press mounted permanently yet and since I'm still using my coffee table for a work bench I don't want to put a ton of force on my press (I don't want to damage the table).
    * Set your press on a piece of plywood with a cloth under it
    * Clamp the press & wood to the table with 2 C Clamps
    * The case webs need to be shrunk ...Adjust the Full Lenth die so it goes all the way to the rim
    * Lightly lube the case and bring the press ram down hard so the cases have the webs shrunk
    Then - mark the cases with a magic marker - chamber and see if they go all the way into the chamber with the bolt closed
    .... I had this issue with once fired 300 Win Mags and with the diameter of the webs reduced - chambered perfectly ... Good Luck
    Regards
    John

  17. #37
    Boolit Bub Andyt591's Avatar
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    This is the way I have my press mounted (for now) since I quit using the coffee table...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Since then, I have had no further issues with any brass. Thank you all for your suggestions and help.

    -Andrew

  18. #38
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    Well done, thank you for sharing

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by truckjohn View Post
    Honestly guys,

    I quit buying Lee reloading dies after having too many problems with stuck shells due to internal die problems. It seems like I ran through a several in a row which appear to he completely lacking their final internal reaming/grinding to final size.
    I have to call shenanigans on this. I am no Lee fan boy, but I have a score or more of Lee die sets and they have all served me well. I have lee dies for 32 acp up through 45/70, and have had no problems with any of them. Fairness compels me to state that I have never used any Lee magnum dies, but I have loaded tens of thousands of rounds with no die related problems.
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  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeettx View Post
    OK, mount the press firmly.
    Number 3 shell holder (RCBS)
    Cases are lubed.
    Decapping pin just clears the shell holder hole to push primers out
    Run the case up until contact is felt and just a bit more.
    Retract the handle and turn the case 45 degrees.
    Run the case up until contact is felt and just a bit more.
    Retract the handle and turn the case 45 degrees, this should move it a
    bit further up into the die.
    Run the case up until contact is felt and just a bit more.
    Retract the handle and turn the case 45 degrees.
    Progress should be being made without sticking the case in the die.
    Continue until the case is full length sized and the die is lubed
    Same on the second case but should be easier.
    Third case should be able to go all the way without retraction, perhaps
    Let us know
    Mike
    I'd add a step before all of the list you provided which is a great series of steps in order. Thoroughly clean the die first.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check