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Thread: Lil CVA Revolver disassembly assistiance, please

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by swheeler View Post
    I think you are missing something kid? From what TCL is describing to me sounds like a Spiller & Burr(Whitney) revolver that has had the cylinder removed, then the loading lever and base pin put back in the frame without the cylinder installed. I put up a link for him to watch on the S&B because google search it looks like CVA marketed 1860,1858 and the S&B types, doesn't appear he has first two? Did I say we need a picture!
    That would make more sense. Yes, that retaining screw is a bit tricky if that is what he has.
    Plus one on pictures!
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  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Does this look familiar TCLouis??????
    Last edited by swheeler; 12-18-2019 at 03:49 PM.
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  3. #23
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    Well I went down to get pictures of it and learned something . . .

    DON"T trust my eyewitness testimony . . . the trigger guard is removable!

    AND

    Yes, swheeler that looks perzactly like it!
    Last edited by TCLouis; 12-18-2019 at 06:37 PM. Reason: correction
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  4. #24
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    Good Job you are the proud owner of a 58 Remington. You already have a link posted with everything you need to take it down and put it together, go forth and shoooooooooootttttttttttttt
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  5. #25
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    ONE minor problem . . .

    Mine looks like that one minus all of the parts EXCEPT the base pin

    It is in there and the previous two owners and I have yet to figure how to get it out.
    First owner obviously did because like yours, the base pin is in place but . . .
    BUT the cylinder was removed, and was one of the "parts" wrapped up in the shirt when it was given to me.
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  6. #26
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    You need the loading lever assembly. Remove the small screw located at front of frame on the cylinder center line(screw head on left bank/side) and pull the base pin out. Parts are available you will just have to google them up. From what I've found online you have either Pietta or ASM, not sure how to tell which though.
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  7. #27
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    look here for Pietta......https://www.taylorsfirearms.com/acce...ver-parts.html
    Deer Creek still sells some ASM revolvers
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  8. #28
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    Shouldn't need to remove the base pin in order to put the cylinder in, just slide it forward with the lever down. It almost sounds like your's has been modified as on mine the boss around the loading lever is what keeps the cylinder pin from being able to slide all of the way out with the lever down. When you remove the loading lever retaining screw the lever will drop slightly and allow the cylinder pin to slide all of the way out. Mine is an Armi San Marco from about 30 years ago. The barrel on the lower right side flat (not the bottom) is marked "A.S.M. Black powder only Cal 44 made in Italy"

  9. #29
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    You said that the nipples are missing. Are there threaded holes where the nipples would go?

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moleman- View Post
    Shouldn't need to remove the base pin in order to put the cylinder in, just slide it forward with the lever down. It almost sounds like your's has been modified as on mine the boss around the loading lever is what keeps the cylinder pin from being able to slide all of the way out with the lever down. When you remove the loading lever retaining screw the lever will drop slightly and allow the cylinder pin to slide all of the way out. Mine is an Armi San Marco from about 30 years ago. The barrel on the lower right side flat (not the bottom) is marked "A.S.M. Black powder only Cal 44 made in Italy"
    This is true but since he has no loading lever the base pin should just slide forward, since it doesn't as he and other have tried the pin must have been put back in upside down with the flat on the top, then the screw installed(must have been some drilling and threading take place) now the cylinder can be assembled and the screw will hold pin in. Someone did this so they could fire the gun probably because they couldn't find a replacement loading lever?? That is my WAG and I'm sticking to it>
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  11. #31
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    I was wondering, since there's no nipples or loading lever, if it was a conversion cylinder.

  12. #32
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    I sent TC a link, probably 30-40 dollars will get him shootin that hog leg again, hold still critter whiles I plugs ya!
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  13. #33
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    Do not think I am missing any parts . . .
    Cylinder is missing the nipples, but there was two packs of 3 with it so that is a non issue
    Removal of the base pin is the only issue for now.
    I have pulled, pushed, toted, tapped and the &(*&^* thing is still stuck.

    May be like an issue I had with a post 64 extractor way back when.
    Just a little harder tap to break it loose.
    Gotta go to Nashvegas today so will start in again tomorrow.
    I have learned to just set some things aside and let me regroup.

    Yes, apparently WD40 sitting long enough will seriously gum something up.
    Luckily it was jammed in place, that sill little fellar is 35 bucks!
    Amendments
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  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by TCLouis View Post
    Do not think I am missing any parts . . .
    Cylinder is missing the nipples, but there was two packs of 3 with it so that is a non issue
    Removal of the base pin is the only issue for now.
    I have pulled, pushed, toted, tapped and the &(*&^* thing is still stuck.

    May be like an issue I had with a post 64 extractor way back when.
    Just a little harder tap to break it loose.
    Gotta go to Nashvegas today so will start in again tomorrow.
    I have learned to just set some things aside and let me regroup.

    Yes, apparently WD40 sitting long enough will seriously gum something up.
    Luckily it was jammed in place, that sill little fellar is 35 bucks!
    Yep let her soak a good piece, Ed's Red is a favorite of mine for this kind of work. Oh yes the WD40, I've quit using it on my guns, you store them on their butt plates and a year later the brown varnish ring around the bolt, in the ejector, extractor, trigger and every other danged thing. I just can't seem to get a handle on storing them muzzle down, seems 2 me

    I think hoppes 9 does the varnish thing too, it's always caught in the lugs from cleaning and you can't get it all out. Bore guide time?? if I could only find it
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  15. #35
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    You have to be shooting it by now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  16. #36
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    Sure glad this is a project to take on "Just Cause".
    Soaked in Kroil, Eds Red, etc. over a period of months.
    Glad it was given to me in pieces wrapped up in an old shirt.

    AND, NO the base pin still has NOT budged.

    Good thing I have three other 58s in the safe in case I really want to shoot one.
    I bought them several years ago and intended to shoot them, bu have not gotten around to doing so!

    Come to think about it I have not laid eyes on them in year or two . . . . Well maybe more
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  17. #37
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    It's gotta be the wrong base pin, too large, driven in there with a 3# hammer!
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  18. #38
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    I had a guy bring me a 58 with the pin rusted into the steel frame. I soaked it in wd40 for a week. Everyday I went and tapped on the pin with a brass punch and my four oz hammer. It finally broke free and came apart. Now to remove all the rust and lube it up to get it shooting again. The sad part is the owner wants to powder coat the gun a bright blue! Weird, but I guess it's his thing.
    It sounds like yours is corroded in. Keep soaking and tapping. It will come out.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master

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    In the case of this revolver, it is brass frame, steel bet pin.
    Over the last year or two, I have soaked it in multiples of "penetrating "oils" and so far NOTHING.
    Really started get more serious about it last summer when I decided it was going to be easy . . . THEN it became the challenge of it.
    Maybe I should boil it and see if there is corrosion/galvanic action that is causing the trouble.
    Safe way to provide heat to "Swell" the parts also.
    OK, when the rain breaks (Sunday 1/5) I put it on the stove to stew for a while
    Amendments
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