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Thread: tire question

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    metricmonkeywrench's Avatar
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    The key is keeping the overall tire diameter within the tolerance band. You can conceivably buy two altogether different types/brands of tires and still be ok.

    If it all worked out correctly and the tires were maintained/rotated correctly in the normal 'Life" of a set they would all be replaced at one time.

    Your in a bit of a different situation as only 2 were identified as faulty, for whatever reason, so depending on the wear on the existing tires you may be ok to run the set until the normal replacement.

    For piece of mind though matching the "new" tires might not be a bad idea as you are not sure what caused the initial failure. I know the Significant Other would not be confident in the possibility of the other 2 failing.

  2. #22
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    I'm thinking that maybe only one was bad, and they replaced its partner. Da Mamma handled it but I'll check when I pick it up. The tire dealer explained what happens if you don't do all four tires on a car that requires it, and that the dealer probably wouldn't risk the damage on a car with plenty of factory warranty still on it.

  3. #23
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    Two would be fine. I would just drive it if tread and tires look ok. Probably not rotated enough.

  4. #24
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    Year ago or more we had a tire delaminating on the passenger front of our Toyota sedan. Our first clue was a heavy vibration in the steering wheel. I rotated the tires (from the front to the back one side a time with a test drive in between)and the vibration in the steering wheel went away. But a new vibration was in the rear. At least it wasnt a bearing or driveline.

    At the tire shop I had to argue with a tech then a manager to get a replacement tire for a tire that was under warrenty. All I got was a used tire with similar tread depth. I now go across town to a competing shop that treats me better.

    Here we dont get a lot of snow if we do its around only a few days at most. Ive never seen more than 8 inches of snow here (just above sea level). But we do have0 rain. Lots and lots of it. Days and weeks at a time.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master

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    So.... what brand was the offending tire? Just curious.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    Well, yeah. I've had Buicks before...and Fords, Chevys, Jeeps, Lincolns. It's not like I had great luck with all my other cars and now suddenly I have a terrible Buick problem. Planned obsolescence is the key phrase for most items - washers, dryers, refrigerators, prostates (well, maybe not prostates). Things are purposely designed to last only so long. I'm just glad the dealer is making it right. I think it's possible that only one tire is bad, and they're replacing both. I'll have to clarify that when I get the car.


    Well it’s nice that they are helping you out but be careful because it is awd. The awd vehicles I have experience with are typically sensitive to different tire sizes between axles so if the other tires are worn replacing only 2 can cause you some issues in the future.

    All cars can have problems if improperly maintained. Most will do ok if you maintain them but some are known for not being too good.

  7. #27
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    AWD is not really All Wheel Drive. There are many variations in the way they work. Some have centrifugal clutches that transfer power from front to back, most that do that are only really one wheel drive and it can be one front tire or one rear tire. Some will power a wheel in the front and a wheel in the back at the same time. Also, there are electrical sensors in some cars that will transfer power to which ever side or front/rear needs it. I worked in the automotive engineering field for a lot of years and I'm not familiar with any of the systems out there that spell out you can use mismatched tire sizes. I'd be interested in learning which company allows this and puts it in writing. The mini-spare can be used for very short periods of time. It's usually spelled out for less than fifty miles. The systems that use the centrifugal clutch may accommodate this for a longer period of time since they are always in the front or the rear mode and don't work together at any one time. They're the simplest AWD system out there....and the least effective.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ianagos View Post
    You purchased a Buick did you really expect to have a daily driver?
    Harsh....but true.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plate plinker View Post
    So.... what brand was the offending tire? Just curious.
    I am curious as well.

    For many years I have liked Cooper tires. I have Coopers on both my vehicles right now.
    My SIL works as a tire/lube tech...he isn't your normal tire/lube tech, he does a lot of research in it.
    Anyway, Cooper has changed something in the last 5 or 6 years, I can't remember if it was ownership or management or something? but they started cutting corners on there economy tire production. My SIL says he has noticed a great increase in customer returns in the low end Cooper tires...general defects and delamination.

    For the OP, I suggest you investigate your specific tires more thoroughly, and maybe consider replacing all 4 tires with another brand or model/style.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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  10. #30
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    Most tires today are out of round from day one. Tires made here are not as bad as the others, but they all will ALL show a up and down movement on the tire balancer.

    Not only that but they are garbage for lasting. I rotate my tires every other oil change. They still do not last. My car is the worst. Now when I get new tires for it I reject any tire that is out of round by looking at them on the tire balancer. If there are any high or low spots they are taken off. Last time it took 9 tires to get 4 good ones. Still holding up good this time. I mount and balance my own tires at a friends shop.

  11. #31
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    Harsh....but true.
    I get it - Buicks are the worse car ever made...bla bla bla. I shoulda left the car brand out and just asked a question about tires.

  12. #32
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    You can replace one or two tires instead of four and an all wheel drive is long as it’s the exact same make and model tire and the old existing tires are close to new and have not worn more than 3/32”. I’ve Managed tire and auto centers for over 25 years now and that has been every policy of every center I’ve worked in and managed. A bent rim, loose lug nuts, or a broken tire belt will wobble all the time and the vibration gets worse that faster you go. I would’ve thought build up of snow and ice inside your wheels if it just magically started during that snowstorm. You could’ve thrown wheel weights causing the vibration. When you feel a vibration at certain speeds is a balancing issue. If you feel it in the steering wheel at your front tires. If you feel it in your seat it’s the rears. If you feel it while applying your brakes on your brake pedal you have warped brake rotors and not a tire issue. Cupped tires can cause vibration issues as well and that’s normally it all speeds. Cop tires are caused from low air pressure and if you saw my tires you would know why cause I’m guilty as charged, loose front end parts and out of a alignment. I would borrow a tire tread depth gauge from someone or a part store to measure your new versus your existing tires to make sure there are 3/32 or less between them or your transmission and all wheel drive will eventually go out.I would borrow a tire tread depth gauge from someone or a parts store to measure your new versus your existing tires to make sure there are 3/32 or less between them or your transmission and all wheel drive will eventually go out, trust I’ve me seen this happen. The tire center I worked for at the time had to buy the customer transmission. I’ve also had a few stubborn vehicles that you think it’s a vibration issue from tires and it’s the transmission shifting at 45 to 50 miles an hour getting ready to go out. If you’re getting vibrations at certain speeds it’s a tire balancing issue. If you’re getting vibrations all the times it’s something mechanical like a bent rim or loose parts.

    I would really like to see what your tires look like before they replaced them to see how they were wearing. Did they check and adjust your alignment if it was needed? If Not I would take it somewhere and have it checked. All wheel drives are really hard on tires if you don’t rotate them every oil change they’re going to have your regular wear and you’ll get vibrations again and 15,000 miles or less. If those tires haven’t been rotated since you’ve got it and put that many miles on it if that alignments out it probably chewed up those replacements
    tires and causing them to cup already. I have a set a tires on my truck from 2013 and they probably have 6/32 left on them. I didn’t check my air pressures last year and I’ve got corrosion around my valve stem’s. All the tires are cupped now and whole and vibrate. It’s too bad those tires probably would’ve lasted me another year! I love my Bridgestone duel or revolvers 10 Plies on half tons they last forever. They changed their design in the last couple years and skimped down tire tread so I went a different route this time. I have a new set sitting in the garage and didn’t want to get them put on because it’s hunting season and now I am at home giving you advice because the roads are glare ice and still have in my old “bald” tires can’t get out to my property to go muzzleloader hunting.lol I think the following weekend my new tires are going on!

    No tires are perfect that’s why they make tire balancers. Some are just manufactured better than others. Tires just magically don’t go out of round one day. Like Tommy boy said they’re all made out of round right from the factory. When you balance them it evens them out for a smooth ride. If you all of a sudden magically get a tire that starts vibrating at certain speeds, cupped, or wearing goofy normally its caused by thrown wheel weights, low air pressures, or you have a loose front end part in the vehicle came out of alignment. What causes broken belts? Old tires, bumping a curb or obstacle, or normally if it happens right off the bat it was poorly manufactured which I’ve maybe seen enough to count on one hand in all the years time I’ve worked in shops. Normally if it’s a manufactured issue when you’re installing the brand new tire on the rim and you air it up you can see the lump in the tire. I’ve also seen this were tax of broken beads when they’ve installed tires incorrectly and tore them. They normally put a big nice goose egg on the side of your tire just like if you bumped a curb.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 12-10-2019 at 04:23 PM.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by NSB View Post
    . I'd be interested in learning which company allows this and puts it in writing.

    REALLY??? Many auto manufacturers ALSO tell you to use FORD 10W-30 or Toyota brand antifreeze and NOTHING else. We are many millions of cars and many billions of car miles past listening to the dictates of car makers. Besides, I have a nagging doubt that you are an authority on EVERY AWD system in existence. Case in point is my daughter's Subaru. 630,000 miles on the odometer as of Thanksgiving, Pirelli tires on the front and BFG's on the back. Front and rear diffs have NEVER needed any repair, center diff works like it is brand new. She has had all service- and things like water pumps and CV joints- done at Subaru dealers. They have NEVER made any statement about mis-matched tires.

    The issue you describe is only found in drive systems that use full locking differentials or spools. Even then, a full locker would would just lock and unlock annoyingly, and a spool would just scuff the tire until it disintegrated. But these devices are not used on passenger vehicles ( except for crazy fun jeepers and rock-crawler types). Passenger vehicles use "limited slip" differentials which allow "differentiation" of axle speed that can be found IF ONE HAS LOW TIRE PRESSURE, for instance. In your explanation, every time one had a tire that was maybe 8 psi low, the entire drivetrain would be torn apart.

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd N. View Post
    REALLY??? Many auto manufacturers ALSO tell you to use FORD 10W-30 or Toyota brand antifreeze and NOTHING else. We are many millions of cars and many billions of car miles past listening to the dictates of car makers. Besides, I have a nagging doubt that you are an authority on EVERY AWD system in existence. Case in point is my daughter's Subaru. 630,000 miles on the odometer as of Thanksgiving, Pirelli tires on the front and BFG's on the back. Front and rear diffs have NEVER needed any repair, center diff works like it is brand new. She has had all service- and things like water pumps and CV joints- done at Subaru dealers. They have NEVER made any statement about mis-matched tires.

    The issue you describe is only found in drive systems that use full locking differentials or spools. Even then, a full locker would would just lock and unlock annoyingly, and a spool would just scuff the tire until it disintegrated. But these devices are not used on passenger vehicles ( except for crazy fun jeepers and rock-crawler types). Passenger vehicles use "limited slip" differentials which allow "differentiation" of axle speed that can be found IF ONE HAS LOW TIRE PRESSURE, for instance. In your explanation, every time one had a tire that was maybe 8 psi low, the entire drivetrain would be torn apart.
    Subaru’s last for ever. We had one in the shop about 15 years ago with 480,000 miles on it. It came in for an oil change. The customers were traveling across country. They had six people in that little station wagon and it was overloaded with them and luggage. They were very large people. They called us a Couple hours later and said their motor locked up and stalled And figured that they had an oil out or we didn’t put the oil in it. We paid to have it towed into the shop and I Figured I’d be eating the bill on an engine . I stopped sweating bullets when we pushed it into the shop and pop the hood to find out The oil registered perfectly to the full Mark on the dipstick. I guess it was just its day to die. The motor finally had enough and the timing chain snapped I guess from what the customer told us a few weeks later when they had it towed home to their dealership.The motor finally had enough and the timing chain snapped I guess from what the customer told us a few weeks later when they had it towed home to their dealership
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 12-10-2019 at 04:35 PM.

  15. #35
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    My daughter is a sales rep. She drives 30-40,000 miles a year. I've never heard of a car that would consistently stand up to that use other than Saab. But Saabs are ugly.

  16. #36
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd N. View Post
    My daughter is a sales rep. She drives 30-40,000 miles a year. I've never heard of a car that would consistently stand up to that use other than Saab. But Saabs are ugly.


    There’s hardly anybody that works on them in our town... And when they break, and trust me they do the parts are ridiculously expensive for them. They also take special tooling so they have to go right to the dealership so you will pay a premium for any service that needs to be done on it. I’ve seen many other owners in town here have their vehicle towed a good hour to an hour and a half one way to a dealership for repair. None of our local parts house even keep parts in stock for them. I’ve seen a lot of locked up and feeling brake calipers on them over the years because customers are watching for pad life. Also radiators and electrical issues are pretty common issues with them. Constant highway driving with that many miles a year doesn’t put a lot of wear and tear on the car no matter what brand it is. There is an a lot of starting and stopping...short trips, that kills cars and suspensions with small town driving in bad roads and corners and turns and potholes. Smooth straight highway driving with not a lot of stopping is very easy on cars.

  17. #37
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    I have a TourX too. The car is made in Germany by Opel. The oem Continentals are terrible! Replaced them with Pirelli Cinturato P7’s and the snow performance is really good as well as low road noise & great handling . Was able to get up the mountain without chains when everyone was pulled over putting them on! Love my Buick, it’s awd & gets 33 mpg on the road. My gal has the Lacrosse hybrid & she absolutely loves her car. Super comfortable & get 40 mpg. Both are 2018’s.

  18. #38
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    Lot's of experts on here. It's hard to sort out a good answer. Gets down to what your favorite car is and has nothing to do with the OP's question or comments.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by NSB View Post
    Lot's of experts on here. It's hard to sort out a good answer. Gets down to what your favorite car is and has nothing to do with the OP's question or comments.
    Oh, that's easy.

    EVERYBODY knows that the Toyota 4Runner is the best car ever made. ROFL!!!



    I know your statement was facetious (or is it sarcastic?) but at the same time, it's true- there ARE many experts on this board. You may be an "expert" on what GM or Ford were doing at the time you worked for them, but there are others here who are just as educated and knowledgeable as you. For instance, my degrees are in Mechanical Engineering but Physical Power Management and Distribution is my area of specialty. We also have ASE Certified mechanics here. Design Engineers, too.
    Remember, this is a discussion. Ever join one before today? I'm sure you have. Discussions ramble down more than one vein of thought. Except when Mr. Rabinowitz would bang his fist on the table and protest that "WE ARE GETTING OFF THE SUBJECT, PEOPLE!"
    I despise a control freak!
    The OP asked,"Alignment problems, suspension problems? Any ideas?" so...I'll say the conversation is STILL relevant.

  20. #40
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    I'm just glad Lucas never made tires ")
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